bossreg Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Had the SS dyno'ed last wed after installing the full JBA LT 3" back exhaust...643 rwhp and 755 at FW acccording to Ken@ KB looks like still need to install new plugs here's some info for other SS owners...my emails between the Lowe Performance and Ken Bell...thanks guys for all your help...Reg START AT BOTTOM AN READ UP.... John, Yep, it's right in the instructions, but they just don't read them, plain and simple. It's funny too, because later when they have ignition problems, we ask "Did you change the plugs?", and they say, no, it wasn't in the instructions.... YES, IT IS. HAS BEEN IN ALL OUR INSTRUCTIONS FOR A LONG TIME NOW. Take care and keep up the good work! Looks like Reg is getting all the hp he's supposed to be. Regards, Ken ----- Original Message ----- From: info@loweperformance.net To: kenchristley@kennebell.net Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 4:40 PM Subject: re: SPAM-LOW: DYNOJET FILES Yes, 15psi right on the money. The first run I lifted a little early, and the last run it misfired up top. He said he hadn't changed the plugs since owning the car. I don't know if Shelby changes the plugs or gap when they install the KB but I told him he should probably get some TR6's and gap them down around .025 to .028. Do you know if they do this as part of the install? If not I guess that would be info the owners would need to know, might help out with customer support!. I know Bill's car had misfire issues when the plug gap was .035 at 17psi. Thanks Ken, if you need anything just let me know! -John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ken's Mail" <kenchristley@kennebell.net> Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 11:23 AM To: info@loweperformance.net Subject: SPAM-LOW: DYNOJET FILES Hi again John. Of course I remember you. Thanks for helping our customer out. The dyno run at 642 would be real close for the std. kit with the 3-1/4 pulley. That works out to 755 ehp at .85 drivetrain loss. I'm not sure what the other runs are, but they appear to have been let out a little early on the throttle? His timing and AFR looked good from your data. Did you guys happen to check the boost? Should be 15 psi with that pulley. Regards, Ken ----- Original Message ----- From: info@loweperformance.net To: kenchristley@kennebell.net Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 8:06 PM Subject: Re: SPAM-LOW: DYNOJET FILES www.dynocom.net I have a dc1800x with load control, very high quality roller assembly, electronics-pretty good, software-ok It's pretty close to a Dynojet, within 10-15 hp usually. This is the same dyno we pulled 771 hp on Bill Stewart's GT500, KB stage 3 with a 2.75 pulley. 898 hp on a 75 shot of nitrous. I've chatted with you on Modular Fords a couple times and we are a dealer for you guys. Don't know if you remember me or not. The logs he sent you are done on my AFM1000 wideband also. Thanks for recommending that to me! I see now why you guys won't compare readings from other brands. -John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ken's Mail" <kenchristley@kennebell.net> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 8:34 PM To: info@loweperformance.net Subject: Re: SPAM-LOW: DYNOJET FILES Hi again John. Aha! The plot thickens. A Dynocom? I haven't heard of that one before. How does it line up with stock hp expectations? Have you found it to be really close? Have you checked any of the same cars hp between yours and the Dynojet? Just curious.... Thanks, Ken ----- Original Message ----- From: info@loweperformance.net To: kenchristley@kennebell.net Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 6:13 PM Subject: re: SPAM-LOW: DYNOJET FILES Hi Ken, I have a Dynocom dyno, that has it's own file type. They are supposed to make a compatible version. The runs we did today was on standard correction at 1.09, if that helps you any. If you need anything else just let me know. We could possibly setup another session if need be, but he lives pretty far away so that would be up to him. Let me know if you need any more info! -John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ken's Mail" <kenchristley@kennebell.net> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 6:53 PM To: info@loweperformance.net Subject: SPAM-LOW: DYNOJET FILES Hi John. I can use WinPep 7 to look at the run files. They can be *.drf files, *.dlf or the old Dynojet files with numeric extensions. It really helps if I can overlay your runfiles right onto mine. Thanks, Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Morris Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Thanks Reg, So we need to change the plugs? michael morris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08 ORANGE SS-725HP Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Bossreg: Did you change the stock ford plugs? If so, what brand and what gap did you use? I'm assuming you went one step colder than stock per Kenne Bell. This should have been part of the install @ SAI with the 725hp package but it wasn't!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesL Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 ......SNIP...Hi Ken,I have a Dynocom dyno, that has it's own file type. They are supposed to make a compatible version but it's not a company that is real quick about anything. The runs we did today was on standard correction at 1.09, if that helps you any. If you need anything else just let me know. We could possibly setup another session if need be, but he lives pretty far away so that would be up to him. Let me know if you need any more info! -John ...SNIP... Hi John, I also have the dynocom dyno with the eddy current setup just like yours. If you haven't discovered this yet.....you can export run data to a comma seperated ascii file. Also, standard correction amounts to the same equation that a Dynojet uses for its calculation. The SAE correction is considered more accurate and is a fw percentage points less. Depending on altitude adjustments, 1.02/1.03 correction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSR Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Good info. Reg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bossreg Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Bossreg: Did you change the stock ford plugs? If so, what brand and what gap did you use? I'm assuming you went one step colder than stock per Kenne Bell. This should have been part of the install @ SAI with the 725hp package but it wasn't!!!!!!!!!! Haven't done it yet still decompressing from Tulsa...sometime this next weekend.... NGK TR6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bossreg Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Thanks Reg, So we need to change the plugs? michael morris look's like it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blksnake Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 look's like it... I changed mine before I had the SS package done and also put high energy coils on. I changed the heat exchanger and that really seemed to help with performance on hot days. I am still waiting to buy the wider wheels so I can get some traction. Mike CSM#07SS0022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Snake Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Mike, What heat exchanger did you put on ? Could you post a link please ?? It gets pretty hot down here in summer, and may need to keep my snake cool. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500-07 Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Mike, What heat exchanger did you put on ? Could you post a link please ?? It gets pretty hot down here in summer, and may need to keep my snake cool. Cheers best bang for your $$$ http://www.lethalperformance.com/pages-pro...-exchanger.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Snake Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Thanks for that....but your making me think... What else should i be doing with my car ??? Given its about to be converted left to right in a few weeks, while its stripped down, what else should i throw at it to improve not just performance but long term wearability, especially if she gets a bit of track work ?? Any suggestions guys ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500FLYBOY Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 I'm surprised they didn't change the plugs with the package. Evo changes the plugs at Stage II with just the CAI and pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Mike, What heat exchanger did you put on ? Could you post a link please ?? It gets pretty hot down here in summer, and may need to keep my snake cool. Cheers Mike Do you know wether SAI changed your thermostat to a 160 . I read that with the change in SC `s that the thermostat should be changed as the new SC creates more heat therefore they go from a 180 down to a 160. It makes sense as the cast iron block soaks alot of heat. For sure a double pass intercooler would be a great benefit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtbird91 Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 I'm surprised they didn't change the plugs with the package. Evo changes the plugs at Stage II with just the CAI and pulley. I'm surprised that your surprised . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtbird91 Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Mike Do you know wether SAI changed your thermostat to a 160 . I read that with the change in SC `s that the thermostat should be changed as the new SC creates more heat therefore they go from a 180 down to a 160. It makes sense as the cast iron block soaks alot of heat. For sure a double pass intercooler would be a great benefit. That would be down to 180* from the stock 195* thermostat. motorad # 354-180 .....and I would be surprised if they did change it. Most of the heat soak is in the Blower which raises IAT's which in turn causes the computer to pull timing thus a loss in HP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500FLYBOY Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 I'm surprised that your surprised . Good point. Yes sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500-07 Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Thanks for that....but your making me think... What else should i be doing with my car ??? Given its about to be converted left to right in a few weeks, while its stripped down, what else should i throw at it to improve not just performance but long term wearability, especially if she gets a bit of track work ?? Any suggestions guys ?? colder thermostat new upper and lower control arms bumpsteer kit torque box brace stainless brake lines rear 13" rotors and new pads catch cans roll bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08 ORANGE SS-725HP Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Haven't done it yet still decompressing from Tulsa...sometime this next weekend.... NGK TR6 Reg: If you do some research, TR6's are the stock heat range for the Shelby. One step colder would be the BR7EF if you want to go with a V-power plug like the TR6's or BR7EFS if you want to use a traditional spark plug. Both are copper core plugs but I'm going to try the V-Power plugs since NGK states this design directs the spark to the edge of the electrode where it develops more rapidly, thus increasing ignitability even in lean burn conditions! All for your info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blksnake Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 best bang for your $$$ http://www.lethalperformance.com/pages-pro...-exchanger.html I put the AFCO Pro Series Dual Pass on. It fits perfectly and everything was included that you need. I bought it at Lethal Performance for $399.95. Shipping was free. It works! I changed the coolant and put Redline Water Wetter in both radiators. This will help also. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 I put the AFCO Pro Series Dual Pass on. It fits perfectly and everything was included that you need. I bought it at Lethal Performance for $399.95. Shipping was free. It works! I changed the coolant and put Redline Water Wetter in both radiators. This will help also. Mike Mike - Tell me/us more about the Lethal Performance dual pass heat exchanger install. This sounds like a very valuable item to keep performance levels up on any S/C engine once the heat begins to build. I believe that I read that it is a total bolt-in item with no mods to the car itself, no drilling, no cutting? Is this true? What about hose connections and routing? This unit bolts in the exact same location as the original single pass unit? This sounds like one of those good bang for the buck items........... R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blksnake Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Mike - Tell me/us more about the Lethal Performance dual pass heat exchanger install. This sounds like a very valuable item to keep performance levels up on any S/C engine once the heat begins to build. I believe that I read that it is a total bolt-in item with no mods to the car itself, no drilling, no cutting? Is this true? What about hose connections and routing? This unit bolts in the exact same location as the original single pass unit? This sounds like one of those good bang for the buck items........... R The unit fits right where the old one was and all new mounting harware is included. One hose is changed, but it is furnished and was already cut to length. The hardest part of the install is getting to the heat exchanger. The bumper cover and fender-well inserts have to come off. It is easy to get everything off, but you should have a spare set of hands to put the front bumber cover back on so you can line it up properly - and not scratch it up! I did it by myself and had to be real careful. No drilling or cutting is required and it fits like factory. It works great. Follow all the instructions and it is easy. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 The unit fits right where the old one was and all new mounting harware is included. One hose is changed, but it is furnished and was already cut to length. The hardest part of the install is getting to the heat exchanger. The bumper cover and fender-well inserts have to come off. It is easy to get everything off, but you should have a spare set of hands to put the front bumber cover back on so you can line it up properly - and not scratch it up! I did it by myself and had to be real careful. No drilling or cutting is required and it fits like factory. It works great. Follow all the instructions and it is easy. Mike Very Cool!! I had noticed that since this is a dual pass, both hose nipples were on the same end, that is why I was asking about the hoses. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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