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KENNE BELL SUPER CHARGER


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OUCH...!!!

no way i will do it to my hood.

 

I have lifted the hood literally hundreds of times for onlookers and magazine writers, and not once did anyone ever even notice the small notch. They were way too busy admiring the supercharger! For up to 800+rwhp, no one ever had a problem trimming a small notch there. It looks very clean with the trim around it. There is no trimming required with the Super Snake hood. Or, you could go through the nightmare like on other kits of lowering your engine and throwing off the whole geometry of the car to get the supercharger to clear. That's another option. One other option is to go with the TVS at about 200 less hp, no notch, no lowering the engine.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

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I have lifted the hood literally hundreds of times for onlookers and magazine writers, and not once did anyone ever even notice the small notch. They were way too busy admiring the supercharger! For up to 800+rwhp, no one ever had a problem trimming a small notch there. It looks very clean with the trim around it. There is no trimming required with the Super Snake hood. Or, you could go through the nightmare like on other kits of lowering your engine and throwing off the whole geometry of the car to get the supercharger to clear. That's another option. One other option is to go with the TVS at about 200 less hp, no notch, no lowering the engine.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

 

 

So with the notch there is no lowering of the engine...and if it is going to be that close what about the heat since the insulation is removed?

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So with the notch there is no lowering of the engine...and if it is going to be that close what about the heat since the insulation is removed?

 

That is correct - no need to lower the engine as with other kits.

 

Heat? What heat? There is no more heat than with the stock supercharger. Our supercharger is more efficient than the roots, and can actually run cooler than the factory one.

 

The liner is in the hood for two reasons: 1) to help (notice I said "help") keep condensation from forming on the hood, and 2) typically to shield the radio from ignition noise; however the Shelby insulator is not an RF shield. As far as it reducing the heat radiated up from the engine, that hardly matters in the case of the Shelby hood since there are two giant vents to let heat out (and of course to keep the hood from blowing off from underhood pressure at high speed).

 

If you would like to keep the liner, you can opt to trim the liner in the same place as the hood brace and keep your liner in place. You can buy a brand new liner for under a hundred bucks from the dealer (I checked) if you ever wanted to put it back in if you put the car back to stock, but I have a pretty good feeling these cars will be worth more in the future with our kits on them than with the stock supercharger.

 

We do not have the full instruction book in pdf format, sorry. PM me and we'll work something out.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

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That is correct - no need to lower the engine as with other kits.

 

Heat? What heat? There is no more heat than with the stock supercharger. Our supercharger is more efficient than the roots, and can actually run cooler than the factory one.

 

The liner is in the hood for two reasons: 1) to help (notice I said "help") keep condensation from forming on the hood, and 2) typically to shield the radio from ignition noise; however the Shelby insulator is not an RF shield. As far as it reducing the heat radiated up from the engine, that hardly matters in the case of the Shelby hood since there are two giant vents to let heat out (and of course to keep the hood from blowing off from underhood pressure at high speed).

 

If you would like to keep the liner, you can opt to trim the liner in the same place as the hood brace and keep your liner in place. You can buy a brand new liner for under a hundred bucks from the dealer (I checked) if you ever wanted to put it back in if you put the car back to stock, but I have a pretty good feeling these cars will be worth more in the future with our kits on them than with the stock supercharger.

 

We do not have the full instruction book in pdf format, sorry. PM me and we'll work something out.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

 

 

Thx for the info...i called KB and asked about a certified installer in MI...I was referred to someone in mount clemens, i looked at their web site did not find much about GT500 KB tuned....do you know of someone that did a lot of work on our cars that you recommend in rochester hills Mi area or close by region.....

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Thx for the info...i called KB and asked about a certified installer in MI...I was referred to someone in mount clemens, i looked at their web site did not find much about GT500 KB tuned....do you know of someone that did a lot of work on our cars that you recommend in rochester hills Mi area or close by region.....

 

Are you sure you don't want to install it yourself? It is very easy to install and it is 100% complete with tune and everything you need except some pretty standard garage tools.

 

Don't worry too much if you don't see anything on their website about Shelbys. If we recommended them, they have been pretty well screened. We have a dealer in Mt. Clemens and one in Dearborn Heights.

 

Are you sure you don't want to install it yourself?

 

Regards,

 

Ken

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A going to need the mods on suspension and DS to handle the power upgrade...besides am not sold yet on the idea of putting a notch in my hood's inside face....I may pull the trigger on TVS ..i know it is smaller than KB ...am not decided yet.

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I have lifted the hood literally hundreds of times for onlookers and magazine writers, and not once did anyone ever even notice the small notch. They were way too busy admiring the supercharger! For up to 800+rwhp, no one ever had a problem trimming a small notch there. It looks very clean with the trim around it. There is no trimming required with the Super Snake hood. Or, you could go through the nightmare like on other kits of lowering your engine and throwing off the whole geometry of the car to get the supercharger to clear. That's another option. One other option is to go with the TVS at about 200 less hp, no notch, no lowering the engine.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

Ken,the supplied Kenne Bell air box will not fit the SS hood without trimming.The hood also lets in so much air it affects the MAF sensor even at low speeds.I refuse to use the restrictor plate given to me from Shelby after the fact,it looks like "crap".Right now I have some foam blocking some airflow until something better comes along.Any suggestions Ken?

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Ken,the supplied Kenne Bell air box will not fit the SS hood without trimming.The hood also lets in so much air it affects the MAF sensor even at low speeds.I refuse to use the restrictor plate given to me from Shelby after the fact,it looks like "crap".Right now I have some foam blocking some airflow until something better comes along.Any suggestions Ken?
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LET ME GET THIS STRAIGHT , IF I PURCHASE A KENNE BELL SUPER CHARGER FOR MY SHELBY GT 500

I WILL HAVE TO CUT THE HOOD AND DO AWAY WITH MY STRUT BRACE, AND IF I GET A SUPER SNAKE

HOOD I WILL HAVE TO CUT MY AIR BOX AND IT STILL WILL NOT FIT RIGHT, IS THIS WHAT I'M HEARING

 

SS HOOD $1400.00

PAINT $1200.00

TOTAL $2600.00

KB SUP $6200.00

INSTALL $1300.00

 

TOTAL $10100.00 PLUS TAX ,SHIPPING

 

AND STILL GOT TO CUT ON AIR BOX

 

THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION

 

FD

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Ken,the supplied Kenne Bell air box will not fit the SS hood without trimming.The hood also lets in so much air it affects the MAF sensor even at low speeds.I refuse to use the restrictor plate given to me from Shelby after the fact,it looks like "crap".Right now I have some foam blocking some airflow until something better comes along.Any suggestions Ken?

 

Just so everyone knows the history on this, the airbox was originally designed for the stock hood, not the Super Snake hood, and it fits fine under the stock hood. When Shelby brought the first version of the Super Snake to our facility, it did not have the "tunnel" feeding air over to the filter, so the airbox fit fine then also. We did the deal with Shelby to supply supercharger kits for the Super Snake and away we went using that airbox design.

 

The ram air tunnel was designed at a later time, after the production started. We were contacted by Shelby at that time and told that they would have to do some trimming to our airbox to make it work, so we said OK, and that was that. They went on to production and modified our airboxes to fit the production cars. We asked them to send us a hood and we'd check it out, but production had already begun and they were fine with modifying the boxes. They sent us a hood soon after and yes, they were right. The outlet area of the hood scoop was too low to clear in one spot. We cut a small notch in the outlet, and poof, no more clearance issues. Really no need to change the box. I have attached a photo here of the notch we cut (about 1/2" wide by 1" deep). Everything clears just fine if you do this, and note we have no baffles installed.

 

post-19116-1213464340.jpg

 

 

Just this week we received one of our original air boxes back from Shelby that was modified to clear the hood without doing the notch, but this will require a complete redesign of a new airbox, which we will look into. In the meantime, the notch works fine. Hate the idea of a simple notch? This sort of reminds me of the notch we cut in the stock hood. Some people freak when you say you have to notch the hood, but they sure love the idea of getting an extra 200-350 rwhp. No one looks at the underneath of the hood anymore than they look under the car or at the trunk lid when you open it. All they care about is when you pop the hood and they see that Kenne Bell supercharger with that gigantic inlet sitting there, screaming out horsepower. Not one single person has ever said one word to me about a small notch under the hood when I lift it up. Not once.

 

When you say the air affects the MAF sensor, what are you experiencing? I haven't seen any problem with this on our car so far. We understand FRP had some issues with stalling with the TVS and their inlet system with this hood, but this does not happen on our test car.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

post-19116-1213464340.jpg

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LET ME GET THIS STRAIGHT , IF I PURCHASE A KENNE BELL SUPER CHARGER FOR MY SHELBY GT 500

I WILL HAVE TO CUT THE HOOD AND DO AWAY WITH MY STRUT BRACE, AND IF I GET A SUPER SNAKE

HOOD I WILL HAVE TO CUT MY AIR BOX AND IT STILL WILL NOT FIT RIGHT, IS THIS WHAT I'M HEARING

 

SS HOOD $1400.00

PAINT $1200.00

TOTAL $2600.00

KB SUP $6200.00

INSTALL $1300.00

 

TOTAL $10100.00 PLUS TAX ,SHIPPING

 

AND STILL GOT TO CUT ON AIR BOX

 

THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION

 

FD

 

 

Hi FD.

 

You can read up on the post I just put up about the airbox if you want to.

 

As far as the strut tower brace goes, Ford engineers told us they were more for looks than function. Everyone thought they were necessary on the early '99-'01 Cobras too, but take a look at the '03/'04 Cobras with a lot more power than the early ones - didn't have a brace from the factory. Hmmmm.... Mustang GTs don't have one. Shelby obviously did not think it was required either on the Super Snake.

 

At any rate if you insist on keeping it for looks, it is possible from what we've heard. All it requires is a couple of spacers under the brace to lift it up slightly. There are also aftermarket brace manufacturers making ones that fit.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

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Just so everyone knows the history on this, the airbox was originally designed for the stock hood, not the Super Snake hood, and it fits fine under the stock hood. When Shelby brought the first version of the Super Snake to our facility, it did not have the "tunnel" feeding air over to the filter, so the airbox fit fine then also. We did the deal with Shelby to supply supercharger kits for the Super Snake and away we went using that airbox design.

 

The ram air tunnel was designed at a later time, after the production started. We were contacted by Shelby at that time and told that they would have to do some trimming to our airbox to make it work, so we said OK, and that was that. They went on to production and modified our airboxes to fit the production cars. We asked them to send us a hood and we'd check it out, but production had already begun and they were fine with modifying the boxes. They sent us a hood soon after and yes, they were right. The outlet area of the hood scoop was too low to clear in one spot. We cut a small notch in the outlet, and poof, no more clearance issues. Really no need to change the box. I have attached a photo here of the notch we cut (about 1/2" wide by 1" deep). Everything clears just fine if you do this, and note we have no baffles installed.

 

100_8930lr.jpg

 

 

Just this week we received one of our original air boxes back from Shelby that was modified to clear the hood without doing the notch, but this will require a complete redesign of a new airbox, which we will look into. In the meantime, the notch works fine. Hate the idea of a simple notch? This sort of reminds me of the notch we cut in the stock hood. Some people freak when you say you have to notch the hood, but they sure love the idea of getting an extra 200-350 rwhp. No one looks at the underneath of the hood anymore than they look under the car or at the trunk lid when you open it. All they care about is when you pop the hood and they see that Kenne Bell supercharger with that gigantic inlet sitting there, screaming out horsepower. Not one single person has ever said one word to me about a small notch under the hood when I lift it up. Not once.

 

When you say the air affects the MAF sensor, what are you experiencing? I haven't seen any problem with this on our car so far. We understand FRP had some issues with stalling with the TVS and their inlet system with this hood, but this does not happen on our test car.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

Ken,when driving at slower speeds,barely underload,car surges as if it had a bad egr valve.When slowing down car back fires thru exhaust and if you push the clutch in you can see the rpms fluctuating up and down until you come to a stop and everything settles down.This all goes away when I block the air flow from my Shelby Super Snake hood.

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Ken,when driving at slower speeds,barely underload,car surges as if it had a bad egr valve.When slowing down car back fires thru exhaust and if you push the clutch in you can see the rpms fluctuating up and down until you come to a stop and everything settles down.This all goes away when I block the air flow from my Shelby Super Snake hood.

 

Hi again gtt500.

 

OK, let me look into it some more. So, if you repeat your foam/no foam/foam test, you can duplicate the problem every single time?

 

If this truly due to turbulent air affecting the MAF, then the cure is to simply stop blowing air directly into it, disturbing the flow; to prevent the turbulence somehow. I can't correct turbulent air going through the MAF with the tune. This will have to be corrected by a mechanical means to stop the turbulence. Shelby / FRP must have seen this already with their kits and decided to do the baffle in the opening to reduce turbulence. We will help you come to a resolution, but in the end, it may be the baffle anyway. You showed with your test with blocking off the opening the issue goes away, so the obvious solution is to stop the turbulent air from entering the filter and MAF.

 

I would hate to see a nice ram air effect go away by blocking it off completely as you have since it’s a cool idea (no pun intended), but if it creates an issue like the one you describe, then there may be no choice but to at least redirect/diffuse the air. Make sense? The filter we use is a super high flow filter. I could see possible turbulence from the forced air induction of the hood causing an issue, but I think the cure is redirecting it, not blocking it off. They did a lot of work to make that hood functional, so it would be a shame to block off the outside air from reaching the filter / engine compartment.

 

I have seen only a couple of posts regarding the installation of the baffle by Shelby to cure some stalling issues with FRP kits. No one to my knowledge had any surging, backfiring or rpms fluctuating. It makes sense though that the baffle may be needed from what you have described.

 

If you have the baffle you should try it, like it or not, just to see if it cures the problem, then let's take it from there. Anyway, it sure appears to me to be a problem that is easily cured.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

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Hi again gtt500.

 

OK, let me look into it some more. So, if you repeat your foam/no foam/foam test, you can duplicate the problem every single time?

 

If this truly due to turbulent air affecting the MAF, then the cure is to simply stop blowing air directly into it, disturbing the flow; to prevent the turbulence somehow. I can't correct turbulent air going through the MAF with the tune. This will have to be corrected by a mechanical means to stop the turbulence. Shelby / FRP must have seen this already with their kits and decided to do the baffle in the opening to reduce turbulence. We will help you come to a resolution, but in the end, it may be the baffle anyway. You showed with your test with blocking off the opening the issue goes away, so the obvious solution is to stop the turbulent air from entering the filter and MAF.

 

I would hate to see a nice ram air effect go away by blocking it off completely as you have since it’s a cool idea (no pun intended), but if it creates an issue like the one you describe, then there may be no choice but to at least redirect/diffuse the air. Make sense? The filter we use is a super high flow filter. I could see possible turbulence from the forced air induction of the hood causing an issue, but I think the cure is redirecting it, not blocking it off. They did a lot of work to make that hood functional, so it would be a shame to block off the outside air from reaching the filter / engine compartment.

 

I have seen only a couple of posts regarding the installation of the baffle by Shelby to cure some stalling issues with FRP kits. No one to my knowledge had any surging, backfiring or rpms fluctuating. It makes sense though that the baffle may be needed from what you have described.

 

If you have the baffle you should try it, like it or not, just to see if it cures the problem, then let's take it from there. Anyway, it sure appears to me to be a problem that is easily cured.

 

Regards,

 

Ken

Ken,I refuse to use the restrictor plate on my new hood.The underside of my hood is of show quality and to use rivets to attach a piece of crap is unacceptable to me.I modified the air box you sent me which looks fine.I will have something fabricated maybe to go over the air box but to hide that massive filter would not be right either.Thanks for your help.

Mike

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