1badsho Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 448 stock and with Evo Stage II 553 rwhp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 here are some of my results before and after mods (stage 2. 3" magnaflo x back) what nice torque curve curve!!! and peak HP +/- 6K, right where you'd expect it ...no dips! sweet! probably not a good idea to pull it to 6700 tho ...Ford engineers told us best to keep to 6250 <just passing it along> 448 stock and with Evo Stage II 553 rwhp 1bad.. that's exactly on the money, imo. fwiw, Ford engineers told us when they pull one to test off the line they're always 511-517crank... that's 442-448rw ...stage-II is right on ...and you're in FL with humidity too!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 My car stock was 442 and with the VMP stage one dyno tune and C&L cold air we got 505 RWH, car was still a bit warm and it was humid out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsfdiver Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 what nice torque curve curve!!! and peak HP +/- 6K, right where you'd expect it ...no dips! sweet! probably not a good idea to pull it to 6700 tho ...Ford engineers told us best to keep to 6250 <just passing it along> The guy I have tune it says it should be fine he also tunes a few ford GT's for racing. 6600 rev limit. I usually shift at around the point where the torque curve and the hp curve meet in the graph, 5500 rpm, when getting on it at the track. Cody also said that after around 8000-10,000 miles on the odometer he would re-tune it for more hp and torque. He is booked till the end of the year by now but will make time for my car when ever ready. He gave me a safe tune for bad gas issues (old/poor 93 octane) a street tune, and a race tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 The guy I have tune it says it should be fine he also tunes a few ford GT's for racing. 6600 rev limit. I usually shift at around the point where the torque curve and the hp curve meet in the graph, 5500 rpm, when getting on it at the track.Cody also said that after around 8000-10,000 miles on the odometer he would re-tune it for more hp and torque. He is booked till the end of the year by now but will make time for my car when ever ready. He gave me a safe tune for bad gas issues (old/poor 93 octane) a street tune, and a race tune. ...but the Ford-GT has H-beams that are very strong on tension. The GT500 has forged cracked powder -- *very* strong on compression but not as strong as H-beams on tension. The crossover on these long stroke motors where the dominant force changes from rod-compression to rod-tension is about 6K rpm. Also, the while the heads are similar castings, they are fitted up (cams, etc) differntly, so peak HP comes on higher on the F-GT, if I recall, hence the H-beams to support the higher peak and redline. The F-GT can pull safely to 7000 ...the GT500 to 6200 or so. Some push the GT500 higher at the track but not advised, imo. -- especially since range of peak-torque to peak-HP is typically 4500 & 6000 ...nice since it's broader than the spacing of the tranny gears. ...just soe thoughts :shug: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsfdiver Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 ...but the Ford-GT has H-beams that are very strong on tension. The GT500 has forged cracked powder -- *very* strong on compression but not as strong as H-beams on tension. The crossover on these long stroke motors where the dominant force changes from rod-compression to rod-tension is about 6K rpm. Also, the while the heads are similar castings, they are fitted up (cams, etc) differntly, so peak HP comes on higher on the F-GT, if I recall, hence the H-beams to support the higher peak and redline. The F-GT can pull safely to 7000 ...the GT500 to 6200 or so. Some push the GT500 higher at the track but not advised, imo. -- especially since range of peak-torque to peak-HP is typically 4500 & 6000 ...nice since it's broader than the spacing of the tranny gears. ...just soe thoughts :shug: Good information 68fastback will keep in below 6250, I only go above 6000 by accident (miss shifting) but may reduce the rev limiter back to 6250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Good information 68fastback will keep in below 6250, I only go above 6000 by accident (miss shifting) but may reduce the rev limiter back to 6250 btw, that front-on pic of your baby under that tree is just awesome!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLTJ Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Also used DB performance in Rogers, MN Never did stock pull unfortunately. Best pull after JLT intake and Evo Tune - 474 H.P. Added 2.6 Pulley with Danny's DB tune - 553 H.P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500FLYBOY Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Here's my stage 3 results after the lower IW pulley and monoplane TB. 619 rwhp, 599rwtq. Remember - this is the car that dyno'd 340rwhp when stock. I'm now 710hp at the crank - and with the stock blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07 SHLB Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 I didn't get a stock dyno run but did 444 rwhp with JLT CAI and tune; with the hand brake on. 2.6 pulley and ARH longtubes bumped it up to 559 rwhp and 552 rwtq. I'm still trying to decide what to do to bring me over the 600 mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 I didn't get a stock dyno run but did 444 rwhp with JLT CAI and tune; with the hand brake on. 2.6 pulley and ARH longtubes bumped it up to 559 rwhp and 552 rwtq. I'm still trying to decide what to do to bring me over the 600 mark. Stockers with good air, JLT CAI and a good tune (I think JLT packages the Evo/Lund tunes?) often see 500rw or a bit over, so thermals/ambient conditions and the handbrake ;-) had a lot to do with your results, imo. Some thoughts... probably could get to your goal with LTHs, low-restriction cats and 3" all the way back to reduce backpressure and get you more power at existing boost levels (stage-3?). The stock Eaton 122 is quite tapped-out thermally at those levels (depending on other mods) but it works fine (just more prone to the tune pulling timing). A ported stock Eaton would help, imo, but, depending on your future goals, a superior solution with outstanding thermals would be the TVS 2.3. It's right in it's sweet-spot at 14-16# and 625-665HP (depending on existing mods). Also it's very pushable to 700+ w/the right fuel-delievery support pieces (pumps, injectors,...), backpressure reduction (headers, 3" pipes, race cats, ...) and monoblade (possibly not required). The FRPP TVS kist already comes with improved intake tube and CAI and just needs a good custom tune (Ford's 605 kit-tune is impressive and, I suspect, underrated but still very conservative -- Evo's offers tunes consistent with the above nums and I'm sure others do/will too). Excellent theremals are the key, imo, for any engine, especially supercharged, and any application though more important with some than others, and a great mod for the GT500 is a quality hi-capacity aftermarket heat-exchanger (like the Steeda or other). It doesn't give you more HP per se, but lets your engine actually make what's capable of over a much broader range of ambient/operating/use conditions by not giving the ECU a reason to pull timing (trying to prevent detonation at elevated thermals) by broadly lowering IAT2 temps -- great for street (esp. in high-temp areas, drags for faster cool-downs, critical for sustained applications like road-course and gymkhana fun. Cololer = more actual HP, not just potential HP or even dyno HP (tuners clearly want you to see good nums so cool-downs rightly are de-rigeur, but that's just not representative of real-world sustained applications ..that's why a hi-cap aftermarket H.E. is so beneficial). Everyone's goals, uses and conditions are a bit different so just mentioning the above to think on. I'm not affiliated with any shop/brand/company etc. and don't have a GT500. Still, the laws of physics and thermodynamics always apply. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07 SHLB Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 Thanks for the feedback. I've seen some with the monoblade and 10% OD lower over 600 but am definately concerned about the heat, being in Florida. I already have the AFCO heat exchanger but I'd hate to get it up over 600 and not be able to sustain it. Getting into the finals when bracket racing doesn't give much time between runs and the last one typically needs to be the best. The TVS sounds better every day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 Thanks for the feedback. I've seen some with the monoblade and 10% OD lower over 600 but am definately concerned about the heat, being in Florida. I already have the AFCO heat exchanger but I'd hate to get it up over 600 and not be able to sustain it. Getting into the finals when bracket racing doesn't give much time between runs and the last one typically needs to be the best. The TVS sounds better every day. For drags, a larger aftermarket metalic cooler tank (that can be iced easier) and an override switch on the circulator pump should help between-round cooldown.. The TVS does not make the same max HP potential as the KB 2.8 or big Whipples (both with necessary associated mods). But the TVS is exquisitely efficient in the 620-665rw range and with Evo tune, LTHs, 3" pipes, race cats, is fine with stock injectors & fuel-rails, and still has at least 10% reserve in the stock fuel pumps too -- just where you want to be. If you plan to push well beyond that level, a larger S/C would be a better choice since injectors, rails, fuel delivery, MAF etc need to be addressed anyway. The above nums were with a conservativly-timed Evo tune for a road-course use (backed off 3-4*). For the drags more timing with between-round cool-down is doable within the capacity of the pumps/MAF etc (at 675-700 the stock MAF and pumps are tapped-out and BAP and MAF extender can be used, tho I'm not a fan of either) and at 700 even with the HE and other mods mentuioned above it will be past the TVS' sweet-spot tho still very acceptable -- that's why I say if pushing into that terrritory another S/C like the 2.9 or 3.4 Whipple might then be the ticket if you don't mind no strut-brace (former) plus replacing the stock hood (latter), both of which are problematic on road-courses but should be no problem for the drags if it doesn't bother you. Below those levels the TVS is outstanding, imo. Wish I had one! <edit:> I should have mentioned, since I just noticed you have a 2007, that you'll need the revised 2008 GT500 crank damper-pulley with the TVS. It's not an OD pulley (same diameter as '07 stocker), but is much lighter and Ford/FRP says it's a required swap specifically with the TVS on 2007s --Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XLR8 Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 424 stock, 90 degree day and humid in mid July. Wating to do more upgrades before I hit the dyno again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500FLYBOY Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 Thanks for the feedback. I've seen some with the monoblade and 10% OD lower over 600 but am definately concerned about the heat, being in Florida. I already have the AFCO heat exchanger but I'd hate to get it up over 600 and not be able to sustain it. Getting into the finals when bracket racing doesn't give much time between runs and the last one typically needs to be the best. The TVS sounds better every day. +1. For my purposes - the stock blower will be fine until next year. I'll get the TVS next spring and bump it up to 650rwhp or so, cool things down a bit, feel confident I won't break anything, and keep my strut and hood (though I am thinking about that SS hood). I'm planning to hit a drag strip on 7/26 - so I may be able to report on multiple runs and the heat problem with the stock blower, both pulleys and mono TB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaker281 Posted July 16, 2008 Report Share Posted July 16, 2008 Also used DB performance in Rogers, MN Never did stock pull unfortunately. Best pull after JLT intake and Evo Tune - 474 H.P. Added 2.6 Pulley with Danny's DB tune - 553 H.P. Could someone clarify for me (OP?). Is this "Best pull after JLT intake and Evo Tune - 474 H.P." with the EVO supplied tune (canned/mailorder)? If so, how did AF look when checked on the dyno? I am leaning towards the JLT with EVO tune, but wonder if folks are running them "as is", or if I need to find a local tuner that I trust. To put in another way. how much success are folks having with the tune that EVO ships with an Xcal3 and cai? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.