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Depends on who you talk to or what you read. I believe the Steeda site says yes you need a retune but many here have stated that it is not required. I really don't see how it would require a change after all your just smoothing out the air flow not increasing the size of the intake.

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Would going from the ugly stock intake ELBOW (only) to the smoother better looking plastic Steeda ELBOW create a cause to have to retune the Shelby GT?

No because you do not move the MAS/MAF (whatever that dang thing is called). It has been reported to make quite a noticeable difference and is one of my next mods as well.

 

Just FYI, there seems to be some issue with the couplings slipping off the tube. It's reported that roughing it up with 60 grit sandpaper and cleaning with denatured alcohol cures this problem. Others are "gluing" them together with RTV.

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Would going from the ugly stock intake ELBOW (only) to the smoother better looking plastic Steeda ELBOW create a cause to have to retune the Shelby GT?

 

Just ordered mine from Steeda, should be here next week, then the wife and I are off on our trip to Disney World from Texas, so I guess I'll know for sure following that trip! Stay tuned!

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Steeda does say a re-tune is required for Shelby GT's and - surprise! They say you need to buy one of their tuners!! Nothing like a conflict of interest, huh?

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UPDATE:

 

Doug from BAMA emailed me with an answer. He said no re-tune is required for my setup.

 

Some background which I didn't include in my original posted question is that I am running a BAMA tune I received from Doug which is actually his tune for the Steeda CAI kit which happens to be the CAI kit Ford Racing sells as their CAI but using the Ford stock elbow instead. The MAF, cone and shield are actually Steeda's stuff. Since the BAMA Steeda tune is what I already use putting on the Steeda elbow will not require the retune.

 

My only question I have left is: How much extra HP is the Steeda elbow worth given any extra air flow netted by the Steeda elbow...is it really worth the $109 price-tag for the Steeda elbow?

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Just FYI, there seems to be some issue with the couplings slipping off the tube. It's reported that roughing it up with 60 grit sandpaper and cleaning with denatured alcohol cures this problem. Others are "gluing" them together with RTV.

 

 

Stump, out of curiosity, is the "slipping" issue with Steeda's plastic elbow or the carbon fiber one?

 

 

Kevin

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I have added the Steeda elbow to my car. To me the cleaner look alone was worth the money. It does seem to have a better "seat of the pants" response, but I've never dynoed the car so can tell you for sure what kind of power differences it actually makes. I haven't had any trouble with anything slipping-as long as the clamps are tight you should be fine.

 

As far as the re-tune, I was concerned about that also. According to Steeda, the carbon fiber elbow does require a re-tune and the pvc does not. I went with the pvc for that reason and have had no issues. Hope that helps.

 

Larry

 

ps-kit was a very simple install, probably 20 minutes being very careful.

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My only question I have left is: How much extra HP is the Steeda elbow worth given any extra air flow netted by the Steeda elbow...is it really worth the $109 price-tag for the Steeda elbow?

If I were you, I wouldn't expect any power gains at all. You're not adding anything new to the induction system, just smoothing out the air path for less turbulence. This will have some effect on your throttle tip-in and low RPM acceleration, and you will notice this. However, there is no new power added to the system, just a reduction in turbulence.

 

It would be nice if someone did a "before" and "after" dyno test, but this gets expensive when it's just an exploration for fact. My dyno tests are only 50 bucks for 3 pulls, but I have to drive 180 miles (round trip) to strap LuLu down. When I did my header install, I thought the exploration was worth the cost and it would be helpful to others wondering the same things I was wondering. But, I am not inclined to explore power gains with the Steeda elbow. My experience says there is nothing to look for. The bottle neck (if you want to call it that) present is the 90mm MAF, and you are not going to pass more air beyond that by adding a smooth elbow (correctly called a "bellows").

 

I haven't heard the "slipping" rumors, but I am inclined to believe that the carbon fiber edition is more likely to be slippery than the plastic, it's the nature of true CF. OTOH, I can't imagine how any elbow could just "slip off", when internally, the process involves suction. Maybe someone has a broken engine mount, or, just doesn't know what they are doing?

 

With regards to the 109.00 cost, that's not harsh. It looks better than the OEM bellows, and invites some custom decoration. Something like you see on military jets...A big red arrow pointing into the throttle body with the words "air" just below that.

 

Yeah, I like that...

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If I were you, I wouldn't expect any power gains at all. You're not adding anything new to the induction system, just smoothing out the air path for less turbulence. This will have some effect on your throttle tip-in and low RPM acceleration, and you will notice this. However, there is no new power added to the system, just a reduction in turbulence.

 

It would be nice if someone did a "before" and "after" dyno test, but this gets expensive when it's just an exploration for fact. My dyno tests are only 50 bucks for 3 pulls, but I have to drive 180 miles (round trip) to strap LuLu down. When I did my header install, I thought the exploration was worth the cost and it would be helpful to others wondering the same things I was wondering. But, I am not inclined to explore power gains with the Steeda elbow. My experience says there is nothing to look for. The bottle neck (if you want to call it that) present is the 90mm MAF, and you are not going to pass more air beyond that by adding a smooth elbow (correctly called a "bellows").

 

I haven't heard the "slipping" rumors, but I am inclined to believe that the carbon fiber edition is more likely to be slippery than the plastic, it's the nature of true CF. OTOH, I can't imagine how any elbow could just "slip off", when internally, the process involves suction. Maybe someone has a broken engine mount, or, just doesn't know what they are doing?

 

With regards to the 109.00 cost, that's not harsh. It looks better than the OEM bellows, and invites some custom decoration. Something like you see on military jets...A big red arrow pointing into the throttle body with the words "air" just below that.

 

Yeah, I like that...

 

Thanks LuLu...quite a good answer! Again Thanks!

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I did a google search of "steeda elbow slipping off" and came up with this:

 

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005...a-cold-air.html

 

Interesting reading...It is reported that the plastic elbow is the culprit, but the owner/installer obviously over-torqued the hose clamps. IMHO, it was never installed correctly to begin with.

 

There are suggestions for sanding in a rough contact surface, as well as adding adhesives, again I believe this is a case of "limited knowledge".

 

It was also mentioned that the interior surface of the carbon fiber elbow is a rather rough surface, and not smooth as one would imagine looking at the exterior surface. I know this to be true from my own CF experience, the interior of the elbow will have the appearence and feel of unfinished fiberglass. So, while you achieve a less turbulent air path, CF is not as smooth as the plastic. Moreover (and it's mentioned there) metal elbows create heat chambers that negate the "cold air" benefit.

 

It it all worth it? I recognize that this mod (as a whole kit) would impact performance favorably on a stock Mustang GT, and while it may be a challenge to install and maintain, there is a pay-off. However, with our SGT 90mm MAF and free flowing air filter, you have to ask yourself if it's worth all the problems some folks are reporting?

 

I think not. I will be sticking with my OEM bellows until I decide what I want to do about supercharging. It's all out the window then anyway.

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I did a google search of "steeda elbow slipping off" and came up with this:

 

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005...a-cold-air.html

 

Interesting reading...It is reported that the plastic elbow is the culprit, but the owner/installer obviously over-torqued the hose clamps. IMHO, it was never installed correctly to begin with.

LuLu,

I installed this and ran it down to Shelby Fest with no issues. However, when I got back home I repositioned the hose clamps so the screw heads were more hidden. Since I'm some what of a novice, how will I know if I've over-torqued? Thanks,

Dave

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LuLu,

I installed this and ran it down to Shelby Fest with no issues. However, when I got back home I repositioned the hose clamps so the screw heads were more hidden. Since I'm some what of a novice, how will I know if I've over-torqued? Thanks,

Dave

I remember looking over your engine bay, Dave, and it all looked good to me. Moreover, if you were to experience any problems, they would have surfaced in the drive to ShelbyFest '08. No problems surfaced, thus you are good to go.

 

Regarding your question of "over-torquing", it is obvious to me (as it must have been to Steeda techs) that the elbow shown in the pic was not installed correctly to begin with, and as the owner/installer torqued on the hose clamp, the elbow collapsed. Here, "torque" is the offender. The elbow did not have any internal support, and like any "tube-like" structure, it would have surrendered to torque, as it appears in the pic.

 

Hose clamps are not springs. You torque them down to hold a hose in place and seal it from leaks, but when (and if) they "slip/blow off", clamp torque is suspended immediately. My "big red book" says that "27 inch pounds" of torque is all that is required to mount the factory elbow. This is close to "hand tight, with a quarter turn". The elbow in the pic suffered 10 times the recommended torque before collapsing. Steeda techs were right, and the owner/installer should respect their call.

 

I don't usually assign blame without being an eyewitness, but the photo says a lot. I do not believe it's faulty craftsmanship from Steeda, rather, the evidence supports poor/limited owner skill in mounting the elbow correctly to begin with.

 

Common Sense File: These kits have been available since the S197 introduction, my friend Kenny Brown had some early S197 cars in his shop back in '04, and I met with Ford engineers as they guided the aftermarket. I conclude that there must be thousands of Steeda kits in use today, so, why did it take 3 years for one owner/installer to call out a caution? Don't really know, but it all has an "odor" to me, watch where you step?

 

Must be something else going on we are not privy to, and that appears (to me) to be a faulty install.

 

Dave...We have met and I have a good feeling for your skills. Drive on, my friend, I think you're fine.

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Don't know if you guys and gals remember but I was the guinea pig on that elbow install last year.I had the same problem as in the picture.When I contacted Steeda and Brenspeed,The response was not to try and hide the clamps underneath as I and others have done to pretty it up a little but to install the clamps so the mechanism faces straight up on either side.Where you can tighten it down with the screwdriver in a fully vertical position.Brenspeed said dyno testing has shown NO GAINS with the elbow to speak of so purchase at your own risk.I also had a buckling problem with the tube as I kept tightening as it would buckle unbeknownst to me to compensate.The instructions should tell of the clamp positioning as the tube doesnt look to have enough material in an area that is in a curve to properly seat the silicone sealing tubes.Hard to explain unless you have tried to install one of these.As soon as it gets hot and buckles you are out of luck.

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Don't know if you guys and gals remember but I was the guinea pig on that elbow install last year.I had the same problem as in the picture.When I contacted Steeda and Brenspeed,The response was not to try and hide the clamps underneath as I and others have done to pretty it up a little but to install the clamps so the mechanism faces straight up on either side.Where you can tighten it down with the screwdriver in a fully vertical position.Brenspeed said dyno testing has shown NO GAINS with the elbow to speak of so purchase at your own risk.I also had a buckling problem with the tube as I kept tightening as it would buckle unbeknownst to me to compensate.The instructions should tell of the clamp positioning as the tube doesnt look to have enough material in an area that is in a curve to properly seat the silicone sealing tubes.Hard to explain unless you have tried to install one of these.As soon as it gets hot and buckles you are out of luck.

 

Guess I'll stay OEM for now. I'll just give it a good coat of "Pig Spit" to make it nice and shiney....yea...that'll work for me...

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I remember looking over your engine bay, Dave, and it all looked good to me. Moreover, if you were to experience any problems, they would have surfaced in the drive to ShelbyFest '08. No problems surfaced, thus you are good to go.

 

Regarding your question of "over-torquing", it is obvious to me (as it must have been to Steeda techs) that the elbow shown in the pic was not installed correctly to begin with, and as the owner/installer torqued on the hose clamp, the elbow collapsed. Here, "torque" is the offender. The elbow did not have any internal support, and like any "tube-like" structure, it would have surrendered to torque, as it appears in the pic.

 

Hose clamps are not springs. You torque them down to hold a hose in place and seal it from leaks, but when (and if) they "slip/blow off", clamp torque is suspended immediately. My "big red book" says that "27 inch pounds" of torque is all that is required to mount the factory elbow. This is close to "hand tight, with a quarter turn". The elbow in the pic suffered 10 times the recommended torque before collapsing. Steeda techs were right, and the owner/installer should respect their call.

 

Dave...We have met and I have a good feeling for your skills. Drive on, my friend, I think you're fine.

Thanks LuLu,

As always i appreciate your sage advice. Dave

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