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Jack / Lift points on GT500


zcp789

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I jack mine from the side. I put a small block of wood on my floor jack and contact the sub frame rail behind the front sub frame. Look out for the lines under the black cover on the driver's side. The manual does not recommend using the center of the rear axle as a lift point, but some guys do it.

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That diagram is for the older Mustang chassis. If you jack a GT500 by the front crossmember, as shown in the diagram, the crossmember will bend a little.

 

OK. Does anyone have an updated version for the newer Mustang chassis (DEW 98)?

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SSGT 500 is correct. I saw the diagram, printed it and compared to the 2007 Mustang GT/GT 500 service manual 100-02-1 "Jacking and Lifting"

 

Here is Ford Lifting CAUTIONS verbatum: By the way, this is the entire instruction for lifting as well.

 

CAUTION: Do not allow the lift adapters to contact the steering linkage, suspension arms, stabilizer arms, or to compress the lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulator. Damage to the suspension, exhaust and steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters prior to lifting the vehicle.

CAUTION: Never use the differential housing as a lift point. Damage to the differential housing and cover may occur.

CAUTION: To prevent possible damage to the underbody, do not drive the vehicle onto the drive-on lift without first checking for possible interference. Check for interference between the upright flanges of the hoist rails and the underbody. If an interference exist, modify the hoist flanges or build up the approach ramps as necessary to provide clearance.

CAUTION: Adapters may be necessary to clear vehicle components to lift the vehicle safely. The adapters must be placed at the 4 designated contacts points. Position the dapaters so they are centered on the adapter contact area.

CAUTION: Do not position lift pads under the crossmembers, body damage may occur.

CAUTION: Do not lift vehicle on convertible cross brace. Body damage may occur.

 

Okay, that's a lot of read, but I thought it best to give it all leaving no doubt that Ford wants you to lift at the pinch point welds they created using adapters. Steeda sells adapters at $75.00 a pair with a full set at each predesignated lift point running around $150.00. Only problem is if you're into jacking the car up and down alot (i.e. SCCA racing etc.) then welding is a must. Also the rocker panel opening would have to be cut away enough to except the bracket. http://www.steeda.com/products/hardcore_jacking_plates.php

 

I'd post a picture of the actual lifting points but I've had no luck in the posting pic arena so I'll have to explain where your lift points are. First pair are approx. 4" behind your front tire. Small cut away around the rocker panel. The two sheet metal body seams where they join is the lift point. The second pair is approximately 6-8" infront of your rear tire. Same scenario. The actual adapter looks like a squarish C shape clamp something you'd seen on a scissor jack if we had one in the car. The picture shown in Ford's Service Manual is No. N0010435. Ask your dealer to show you. This is the only place I've seen anywhere to include over the internet. My guess is if you attempt to jack elsewhere you could compromise body integrity, warp or stress on other components. This is a heavy car and no real frame to speak of other than it's own design.

 

Ofcourse the best way to lift you car is while sitting on it's own weight. Ramps, drive up pit are perfect if you own them but if you don't have either then your back to a low profile (Craftsman) floor jack and a floor plate adapter. I made a drive up ramp using 8 x 10 boards and stacking them while reducing each length (like a stair case) until I got my desired height of 8". Learn how-to do it on this website http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/index.htm. Total cost? $34.00 in wood and materials, a Saturday worth of hammering and Lowe's cut the boards up for free. The weight is heavy, but driving up on them full speed isn't a problem.

 

If you have the spare time and space, I'd give it a try.

 

Airborne

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I'm not sure about where to put jack stands, but the lift points for changing a tire are pretty easy to find. Just run you hand along the underside of the plastic piece under the rocker pannels, and you'll feel cut-outs front and back. And for a whopping $29.95 you can get a PERFECT hydrolic scissors jack at Pep Boys to lift it up.

 

**Edited as I just noticed it does not fit perfectly! The cutout in the scissors jack is not quite deep enough!! There is a little bit of air between where it should be lifting and the body. SOOOO glad I did the back on my first try (less weight there) as it's lifting by the SEAM. NOT GOOD**

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I'm not sure about where to put jack stands, but the lift points for changing a tire are pretty easy to find. Just run you hand along the underside of the plastic piece under the rocker pannels, and you'll feel cut-outs front and back. And for a whopping $29.95 you can get a PERFECT hydrolic scissors jack at Pep Boys to lift it up.

 

I'll take a picture of the box as soon as I can. But it fits PERFECTLY in the cutouts, the portion that comes in contact with the car having a cutout in the middle to it can straddle the vertical lip piece (yea, not sure what that is called) so the pressure from the lift can be evenly distributed between the inside and outside of that lip.

 

Changed my oil for the first time today on the GT500 at 1500 miles;

 

You are correct about the cut outs under the rocker panels as it is the same on my

05 Mustang GT..........

 

I used the Jack from the GT to Lift the GT500 with no problem and put cement blocks under

the front tires 6" high and had plenty of room........Remember to chalk the rear tires first.........

 

The sissor jack wich is made for the car actually only contacts the double metal seam("lip") in the cut out......

 

Decided not to opt for the ramps????????????? :fear:

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Changed my oil for the first time today on the GT500 at 1500 miles;

 

You are correct about the cut outs under the rocker panels as it is the same on my

05 Mustang GT..........

 

I used the Jack from the GT to Lift the GT500 with no problem and put cement blocks under

the front tires 6" high and had plenty of room........Remember to chalk the rear tires first.........

 

The sissor jack wich is made for the car actually only contacts the double metal seam("lip") in the cut out......

 

Decided not to opt for the ramps????????????? :fear:

 

Cool. I'm up to a whopping 250 miles now. But was worth everything to get the stripes and interrior done up w/red.

 

Actually, ramps for changing the oil, etc. are on my list of to-buy's. But with the front air dam is SOOO low to the ground the ones I have will not work. I'll need to find ramps with a much more gradual slope. I have a thousand or so miles to find good ramps and where the oil filter is.

 

The jack is for the trunk (fits well into the wheel-well w/jumper cables, extra oil, etc.) 'cus I don't like fix-o-flat kits. So, bought a rim, tire, jack and lug wrench for the trunk in case I get a flat out someplace where changing the tire to the spare is a better option then calling AAA. The sticker on the car said it comes w/roadside assistance as part of the price, but can't find how to use it, and I've had AAA for years anyway. Now that I'm prepared properly for if I get a flat, let's hope that never happens.

 

For those that are interested, I took a couple of pics of the jack I bought at Pep Boys. Again, fits like it was made for the car! Nice cutout so there is no slipping off of the designated lift points on the lip in the cutouts under the rocker pannels.

post-19729-1211735449.jpg

post-19729-1211735459.jpg

post-19729-1211735449.jpg

post-19729-1211735459.jpg

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I saw that Jack at Pep Boys today and it looks too wide to fit in the rocker panel cut outs????????????

 

Anyway they wanted 49.99 for it..............

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For those that are interested, I took a couple of pics of the jack I bought at Pep Boys. Again, fits like it was made for the car! Nice cutout so you have lift on the inside and outside of the lip in the cutouts under the rocker pannels.

 

Have you tried the jack yet to see if it fits? The rocker panel cut outs on the car are 2-1/2 inches wide. How wide is the jack? It looks like your jack is too wide and that it will not fit !!!!!

 

Here is the location of the cut outs.

 

Jacking2.gif

 

Jacking.gif

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I saw that Jack at Pep Boys today and it looks too wide to fit in the rocker panel cut outs????????????

 

Anyway they wanted 49.99 for it..............

 

Really? Well, that is weird. I suppose they could have scanned the wrong price in or something for me.

 

Just make sure it's the same one in the pic of the outside of the box. Before I bought it, I insisted I take it outside to make sure it would fit, and it did. Hudrolic too. So none of that turning the screw stuff you typically have to do with scissors jacks. With zero clearance in the on either side for sure. But slipped right in there like a glove.

 

Grabber- Great Pics on lift points too.

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Really? Well, that is weird. I suppose they could have scanned the wrong price in or something for me.

 

Just make sure it's the same one in the pic of the outside of the box. Before I bought it, I insisted I take it outside to make sure it would fit, and it did. Hudrolic too. So none of that turning the screw stuff you typically have to do with scissors jacks. With zero clearance in the on either side for sure. But slipped right in there like a glove.

 

Grabber- Great Pics on lift points too.

 

Can you tell me how wide and how deep the little notch is?

 

Have you jacked the car to see if the notch is too deep and that it might push up on the plastic rocker panel. I was just out changing the oil on my wifey's GT/CS and I was looking at that notch very closely.

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If you use a standard floor jack on your car, lift only on the front frame rail.

 

th_OilchangeGT-CS5-27-08010.jpg

th_OilchangeGT-CS5-27-08011.jpg

th_OilchangeGT-CS5-27-08014.jpg

 

In the back there is a spot just in front of the rear tire. You can also see the cut out in the rocker panel for the pinch jack point.

th_OilchangeGT-CS5-27-08012.jpg

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You can always order a Mustang Jack from your dealer's parts department - I priced it at $47.62 today.

 

Thanks for the info. I am going to check that out and order one. My jack wont fit under the front of the car. I do have a pallet jack that works. :hysterical:

th_RimCleaningGT500001.jpg

th_RimCleaningGT500002.jpg

th_RimCleaningGT500003.jpg

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You can always order a Mustang Jack from your dealer's parts department - I priced it at $47.62 today.

 

The dealer jack actually contacts the double lip seam in the rocker panel cut outs,

Not sure if stradeling the lip for support with a different jack is a good idea?????????????

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The dealer jack actually contacts the double lip seam in the rocker panel cut outs,

Not sure if stradeling the lip for support with a different jack is a good idea?????????????

 

I agree. The double lip is very strong. My Sr. Master Tech. uses thos double lips with his hoist. Click on the pic. and you will see.

 

th_Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts110.jpg

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I agree. The double lip is very strong. My Sr. Master Tech. uses thos double lips with his hoist. Click on the pic. and you will see.

 

th_Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts110.jpg

 

 

Grabber,

The information you provide to this forum is fantastic and I for one appreciate it as a new owner. I have two questions as I start on my journey to modifications. These questions do not pertain to the lift points so I apologize, but I did not feel that I needed to start a new thread.

 

1) Did you install your own axle back Corsa 14311 exhaust? If so, can this be accomplished using ramps?

 

2) Could you feel the "seat of the pants" difference once you installed the JLT CAI and SCT custom tune. In other words, for someone on a fairly limited budget (since I just purchased the car), is the JLT CAI and custom tune worth the $850.00 for the additional performance.

 

I value your opinion, thanks.

Overtime

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Grabber,

The information you provide to this forum is fantastic and I for one appreciate it as a new owner. I have two questions as I start on my journey to modifications. These questions do not pertain to the lift points so I apologize, but I did not feel that I needed to start a new thread.

 

1) Did you install your own axle back Corsa 14311 exhaust? If so, can this be accomplished using ramps?

 

2) Could you feel the "seat of the pants" difference once you installed the JLT CAI and SCT custom tune. In other words, for someone on a fairly limited budget (since I just purchased the car), is the JLT CAI and custom tune worth the $850.00 for the additional performance.

 

I value your opinion, thanks.

Overtime

 

The JLT Stage I is a huge difference. Well worth the $850 bucks. You will really notice it. I had my Corsa's installed. It takes 2 guys to get them adjusted easly. They have to mess with the center X pipe to get it adjusted to get the spacing exact in the cut outs on the rear valance. You could do it on ramps as it is not real hard job. Just keep in mind that you will need a helper or it will be a pain.

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I agree. The double lip is very strong. My Sr. Master Tech. uses thos double lips with his hoist. Click on the pic. and you will see.

 

th_Clutch-TrannyReplacementparts110.jpg

 

Yo Grabber. I can't quite make out where the jack in the shop is lifting from (#$%@#!!! limited size on the pics we can upload)

 

It does not look like the lip is actually being contacted in your pic from what I can tell. In researching how deep and wide is the cutout on my scissors jack, I found out my jack is lifting BY the lip in the cutouts and do NOT like that. Thank god I did my only real lift test to wheel-off-the-ground in the back. A LOT less weight back there.

 

Would it be accurate to say the lift points are alligned with the cutouts, but on the inside (closer to the drive shaft) of the lip?

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Yo Grabber. I can't quite make out where the jack in the shop is lifting from (#$%@#!!! limited size on the pics we can upload)

 

It does not look like the lip is actually being contacted in your pic from what I can tell. In researching how deep and wide is the cutout on my scissors jack, I found out my jack is lifting BY the lip in the cutouts and do NOT like that. Thank god I did my only real lift test to wheel-off-the-ground in the back. A LOT less weight back there.

 

Would it be accurate to say the lift points are alligned with the cutouts, but on the inside (closer to the drive shaft) of the lip?

 

If you dont have a special Ford Pinch point jack then you should lift on the fram rail pads.

For the front...Lift here:

OilchangeGT-CS5-27-08011.jpg

 

th_OilchangeGT-CS5-27-08014.jpg

 

For the back lift here: (next to the pinch cut out)

OilchangeGT-CS5-27-08012.jpg

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Here is the info on the Ford Jack you asked me about.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...ic=29264&hl=

 

Thanks Grabber! You the man! :drool:

 

Based on the lift points, and the way the Jack looks, the car is actually being lifted BY the lip itself, not the body points on either side of the lip. Interesting. That seems likie a lot of weight to lift by the lip, but I did take a really close look at the lip where the cutouts are, and it is different, reinforced steel.

 

If lifting my the lip itself is OK, then that Jack from Pep Boys I posted earlier should be safe.

 

Interesting, and thought provoking as in the front for sure, that is a LOT of weight for the lip to support.

 

:confused:

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