Preparing for my 1st service (oil change)

[slamarre]

Hello all,

 

Since i bought my car from Michael Morris more than 250 miles away, i will not be able to visit him every 2,500-3,000 miles for an oil change . So, i have to shop around here in Jacksonville, Florida a dealer that will service my SGT.

 

I am the type of person that i have difficulty to trust people and especially service department. So, i am asking you all what i should be looking for out of a Ford dealer for the service department. I know that some people are changing their own oil but i am not sure i want to do that for 25$. (Is there any link that i could see detailed pictures on how to do that on a 4.6 3V engine?)

 

Does the dealership have special technician that will do only SGTs and 500GTs?

 

I have the feeling that out card should not be treated the same way as any other car because of the limited production factor.

 

Anyway, any tips or advices would help me.

 

Thanks.

[motorjock205]

Hello all,

 

Since i bought my car from Michael Morris more than 250 miles away, i will not be able to visit him every 2,500-3,000 miles for an oil change . So, i have to shop around here in Jacksonville, Florida a dealer that will service my SGT.

 

I am the type of person that i have difficulty to trust people and especially service department. So, i am asking you all what i should be looking for out of a Ford dealer for the service department. I know that some people are changing their own oil but i am not sure i want to do that for 25$. (Is there any link that i could see detailed pictures on how to do that on a 4.6 3V engine?)

 

Does the dealership have special technician that will do only SGTs and 500GTs?

 

I have the feeling that out card should not be treated the same way as any other car because of the limited production factor.

 

Anyway, any tips or advices would help me.

 

Thanks.

 

My Ford dealer here in Odessa, TX has a quick change lube shop in their parking lot that they use....I pulled in there, was met by two (2) extremely excited young men who directed me to bay #2...I pulled in, they started pulling the hood pins, and I asked them to stop so I could show them the "proper" way to handle the hood pins and then I popped the hood...and stood there and watched every move they made and also made sure that they put in the proper amount of oil....I requested the standard Motorcraft oil filter as the Performance oil filter is over rated for daily driving...When all was done, I'm $64.00 lighter in the wallet for Mobil 1 5W20 synthetic, and I'm on my way....Not a problem at all...Nothing is any different on our cars than any other 4.6 Mustang GT with the exception of the hood pins....From now on, I'll probably undo the hood pins myself and tuck them under the hood until after my oil change so I don't have to worry about them screwing them up...

[WP64]

Does the dealership have special technician that will do only SGTs and 500GTs?

 

Sorry to let you down here, really I am, but typically the guys changing the oil and filters in a dealership are the lowest paid, least educated employees in the shop, that's just been my experience anyway.

 

Warm them:

 

*Not to put air in the tires (they sometimes will and over-inflate)

*Not to wash your car and if they 'have to' wash it insist that they call you first, leave your cell number.

*Not to get oil all over you K-member, when they twist off the oil filter the oil can splash over everything, they can remove it w/o a mess but they have to sometimes be reminded that you will check their work and don't want them making a big mess.

*Ask if they put covers over the seats and paper mats down in the foot well, most do, but you don't want greasy, oily boots and paints touching your interior.

*Check your car going in for dents, dings and scratches and when you pick it up check it again, if there are any problems point it out to your service writter BEFORE you leave... Insist that they fix anything that they screwed up.

 

Be prepared to be looked at like you sprouted a third eye on your forehead when you ask them all the above, but they will get the point that your car isn't a Ford Fiesta and they'll hopefully treat it with some respect, if that's the way you want it treated...

 

Don't get me wrong. most dealers do great work and really care about the cars they work on, warranty service or not, unfortunately some dealers and/or their employees do not.

 

Best of luck with it,

 

Jay

[69dejavue]

Better yet, do it yourself. Buy the best oil and best filter. You will save money in the long run, even if you have to buy a jack, jack stands, drain pan and wrench. Or you can buy special ramps but you will know it is done right and with care. You will be able to take pride in what you do and know it has the best. Sooner or later you will get an idiot that strips the drain pan bolt or does not treat the car with the respect due. And if you buy the oil and filter you know you will get the best oil and filter. The car should have synthetic oil, as recommended by Ford, but that does not mean the dealership will automatically do so.

[slamarre]

Anyone has detailed instructions with pictures and/or video on how to change the oil of our 07 or 08 SGTs or standard GTs?

 

I would love to do it myself but not before having read or seen some pictures and videos.

 

What about the Ford warranty if we do our own oil change? If we have an engine problem, how Ford will rely on us telling them that we did the oil change ourself?

 

Yes we can keep the oil and filer purchase receipt but that will not tell Ford that we did the oil change?

 

Thanks.

[mciarochi]

Better yet, do it yourself. Buy the best oil and best filter. You will save money in the long run, even if you have to buy a jack, jack stands, drain pan and wrench. Or you can buy special ramps but you will know it is done right and with care. You will be able to take pride in what you do and know it has the best. Sooner or later you will get an idiot that strips the drain pan bolt or does not treat the car with the respect due. And if you buy the oil and filter you know you will get the best oil and filter. The car should have synthetic oil, as recommended by Ford, but that does not mean the dealership will automatically do so.

 

+1

 

I have a mechanic I know change my oil, and I bring him the oil and filter.

 

There are good dealerships out there, if you've got one, use it. Otherwise, "run away! run away!"

 

You're right, you have a special car and it should be treated differently. Ford of North Scottsdale (in Arizona) was great when I was passing through and needed and oil change. When I dropped it off I was directed to one of the service reps who "specialized" in the Mustangs and Shelbys. When I picked up my car it was parked with a Ford GT on either side of it, also in for service. Too bad they're across the country.

 

The other two I've been to, one didn't have the correct oil (twice) and the other just flat put in the wrong oil.

 

I had similar problems with the early Taurus SHO. Most dealers just had no clue, and I had to bring it to a specialty shop.

[aonebadbone]

Let me first say that WP64 is right on the mark and let them know right up front how you feel about you're car.

Take the service manager with you to look over you're car for the inspection of you're car.

Next I suppose that you are running synthetic oil in you're baby. because its the best for you're car.

Check the owners manual as 2 or 3000 miles between oil changes is to often and a wast of money.

Art

[Grabber]

Anyone has detailed instructions with pictures and/or video on how to change the oil of our 07 or 08 SGTs or standard GTs?

 

I would love to do it myself but not before having read or seen some pictures and videos.

 

What about the Ford warranty if we do our own oil change? If we have an engine problem, how Ford will rely on us telling them that we did the oil change ourself?

 

Yes we can keep the oil and filer purchase receipt but that will not tell Ford that we did the oil change?

 

Thanks.

 

The Rhino ramps I bought at Wallmart do not work with the car unless you put a 2X10 in front of them. Then it works great. Same thing with the GT500.

 

When I turned the oil filter a little of it leaked down the side but most of it drained straight down into the pan. No mess, and no special measures needed with cardboard shoots or bags or foil like what's needed on the GT500.

 

6 quarts of Motorcraft 5-20 synthetic blend and a filter and I was done in 15 minutes. Easy job.

 

 

 

 

[mciarochi]

What about the Ford warranty if we do our own oil change? If we have an engine problem, how Ford will rely on us telling them that we did the oil change ourself?

 

Yes we can keep the oil and filer purchase receipt but that will not tell Ford that we did the oil change?

 

Yes, even in the warranty book it says you can do your own maintenance. Keeping the receipts is a good idea, mainly to prove you're putting in the right oil, but it also adds to the value of your car to have a detailed history. I even keep a pad in the car and record my gas fillups (mileage, quantity, and brand).

 

The oil change is just like any other car, as far as I know. Pull the plug, remove the filter, drain the oil, the filter is the same as any other car; lube the seal and 3/4 turn past contact. The main thing is clean up, check the gasket on the plug, and torque it back in correctly (good tug past snug, or 1/8 turn, or ~10 ft/lbs). Oh, yeah, don't forget to pour the new oil in. I've seen that happen...

[CMG]

Just for the record full syn. oil and 2-3k change intervals are overkill on a street car. Go with the motorcraft oil(syn blend) and filter from walmart. I would change every 5k. I have owned and maintained a fleet of Fords (mostly econolines) for the last 22 years. For the last few years Ive serviced every 10k with motorcraft stuff. Never had a oil related issue in all these years. If it wernt for checking brakes and tires I might try 20k! lol!

[TheKurgan]

Yes, even in the warranty book it says you can do your own maintenance. Keeping the receipts is a good idea, mainly to prove you're putting in the right oil, but it also adds to the value of your car to have a detailed history. I even keep a pad in the car and record my gas fillups (mileage, quantity, and brand).

 

The oil change is just like any other car, as far as I know. Pull the plug, remove the filter, drain the oil, the filter is the same as any other car; lube the seal and 3/4 turn past contact. The main thing is clean up, check the gasket on the plug, and torque it back in correctly (good tug past snug, or 1/8 turn, or ~10 ft/lbs). Oh, yeah, don't forget to pour the new oil in. I've seen that happen...

 

 

Only other thing I'd add is when you pull off the old filter, check to make sure the seal is on it and not still attached to the block. This is the most common mistake and can be the most costly. If you put another filter on with the old seal still sitting on the block, then oil will go everywhere.

 

Speaking from experience since I forgot to check the filter seal on my '05 one time and ended up with oil all over the carport after I started it.

[motorjock205]

The Rhino ramps I bought at Wallmart do not work with the car unless you put a 2X10 in front of them. Then it works great. Same thing with the GT500.

 

When I turned the oil filter a little of it leaked down the side but most of it drained straight down into the pan. No mess, and no special measures needed with cardboard shoots or bags or foil like what's needed on the GT500.

 

6 quarts of Motorcraft 5-20 synthetic blend and a filter and I was done in 15 minutes. Easy job.

 

 

 

 

 

Grabber, I wonder how the ramps would work with a Shelby GT...You indicated that you had to use a 2x12 in front of the ramps for your GT/CS, but the Shelby GT is at least an inch lower than the GT/CS...Have you tried the ramps with a Shelby GT??? Just curious...

[69dejavue]

If the ramps don't work then I would recommend buying a floor jack at Wal Mart with the low clearance. I bought one for about 40.00 and then a good pair of jack stands.

 

I think what SLAMARRE is saying is that he has never done this and needs detailed instructions. Rather than instructions he needs someone nearby to walk him through the first time so he needs to say exactly where he lives in Florida. Slam, it is incredibly easy once you know how. Buy a few simple tools etc and you will always be able to put in the best oil far cheaper than taking to a dealer.

 

I believe, and correct me if I am wrong, that Ford is now calling for full synthetic in 2008 SGTs. So even if you have a 2007 SGT get the best. Get the Ford full synthetic or the best synthetic and the best filter. Mobil One is good oil and they make a very good Mobil One filter. Amsoil is an excellent synthetic and makes an excellent filter. At a minimum I would recommend the Ford Motorcaft FL 820 and be sure it is the 820 made in the US and not Mexico as there is a difference between the two filters.

 

Again, it is very simple, you just need someone nearby to walk you through the first time.

[FiaCobra]

Doing an oil change can be one of the easiest things on a car. For 1st timers, make sure you have the proper tools. The most important is a properly sized oil filter wrench. The last thing you want to do is drive a screw driver through the oil filter to remove it !!

 

I prefer the car to be warm and not hot or cold. Properly jack or ramp the car before you begin. On my GT-500, i simply have to jack up one corner and slide (2) 4x4's under the left front wheel to slide under the car.

Open the hood and remove the oil dip stick and oil fill cap on the valve cover. Take a brand new, unopened container of oil and stick it in the oil fill hole on the valve cover. This will ensure that you will not forget to put oil in the car before starting !! You can't miss a quart of oil sticking out from your valve cover.

 

Next, crawl under the car and drain the oil from the pan. Once that's done, tighten the drain plug, give it a wipe of the rag and move to the oil filter. If it will drip oil on anything, get a small kitchen garbage bag and wrap it around the frame (I do this on my car) and tie it off. Try using your hand 1st to remove the filter. If that's a no-go, use a quality oil filter wrench to loosen it. Once it's lose enough, unscrew it until oil comes out. Let it drain to the point it stops running. Now, unscrew it by hand and remove it. Let the remaining oil drain and get a clean rag and wipe down the oil filter housing. Make sure the gasket from the old filter did not stick to the housing. If it did, simply pick it off with your fingers....NOT a sharp screw driver! You don't want to mar the surface of the oil filter housing. Now, coat the new oil filter gasket with some new oil. That will prevent the gasket from sticking when removing it the next time and aid in sealing. Place the new filter on and tighten by hand. Make sure it's on good but there's no need to go gorilla on it.

 

Remove any temporary shields you used to keep the frame clean and wipe everything down with a clean rag. Remove everything from under the car and properly fill it to specs. Once car is filled, ensure nothing is under the hood before starting. Start car and let run for a few seconds while keeping watch on oil gauge/warning lamp. Once pressure builds, turn car off and wait a few moments before checking the level. (Note: oil level should be checked when car is off ramps and level on ground)

DO NOT OVERFILL. If you find you did, you can simply loosen (but do not remove) the drain plug and let drain until you reach the proper level.

 

Last step but most important. PROPERLY dispose of the old oil. That doesn't mean behind the garage!!

[msouhlas]

Doing an oil change can be one of the easiest things on a car. For 1st timers, make sure you have the proper tools. The most important is a properly sized oil filter wrench. The last thing you want to do is drive a screw driver through the oil filter to remove it !!

 

I prefer the car to be warm and not hot or cold. Properly jack or ramp the car before you begin. On my GT-500, i simply have to jack up one corner and slide (2) 4x4's under the left front wheel to slide under the car.

Open the hood and remove the oil dip stick and oil fill cap on the valve cover. Take a brand new, unopened container of oil and stick it in the oil fill hole on the valve cover. This will ensure that you will not forget to put oil in the car before starting !! You can't miss a quart of oil sticking out from your valve cover.

 

Next, crawl under the car and drain the oil from the pan. Once that's done, tighten the drain plug, give it a wipe of the rag and move to the oil filter. If it will drip oil on anything, get a small kitchen garbage bag and wrap it around the frame (I do this on my car) and tie it off. Try using your hand 1st to remove the filter. If that's a no-go, use a quality oil filter wrench to loosen it. Once it's lose enough, unscrew it until oil comes out. Let it drain to the point it stops running. Now, unscrew it by hand and remove it. Let the remaining oil drain and get a clean rag and wipe down the oil filter housing. Make sure the gasket from the old filter did not stick to the housing. If it did, simply pick it off with your fingers....NOT a sharp screw driver! You don't want to mar the surface of the oil filter housing. Now, coat the new oil filter gasket with some new oil. That will prevent the gasket from sticking when removing it the next time and aid in sealing. Place the new filter on and tighten by hand. Make sure it's on good but there's no need to go gorilla on it.

 

Remove any temporary shields you used to keep the frame clean and wipe everything down with a clean rag. Remove everything from under the car and properly fill it to specs. Once car is filled, ensure nothing is under the hood before starting. Start car and let run for a few seconds while keeping watch on oil gauge/warning lamp. Once pressure builds, turn car off and wait a few moments before checking the level. (Note: oil level should be checked when car is off ramps and level on ground)

DO NOT OVERFILL. If you find you did, you can simply loosen (but do not remove) the drain plug and let drain until you reach the proper level.

 

Last step but most important. PROPERLY dispose of the old oil. That doesn't mean behind the garage!!

 

Also consider using the Z-Max additive the is endorsed by Carrol Shelby... It really does work and I highly recommend using it.

[69dejavue]

Slam- don't forget to buy a plastic tarp at Wal Mart to put under the car when changing the oil to catch any possible drips. Better than staining the driveway or garage floor.

 

Slam- tell us exactly where you live.

[Michael Morris]

Yall are awesome. Great pictures and description.

I dont think there are better folks any where on the web. Im very pround to be a TS member.

All this detail for just changing oil. Im serious, YOU GUYS ROCK!! :happy feet:

 

 

michael morris

[LuLu]

Don't worry too much about tracking your oil changes. Keep a log book of all maintenence (including visits to the dealership for warranty work) and reciepts for the D.I.Y stuff, and you will be okay.

 

Should you suffer a serious power train failure, the techs will know rather soon if it's a matter of poor owner maintence or abuse. This is why I suggest that the "best" oil for any engine, is clean oil, and I change mine every 2500-3000 miles.

 

This is also why I go to my dealer for my oil changes. It takes 10-15 minutes and everything is done right (including dealer documentation). I get a fresh Motorcraft filter and the correct 5W20 Motorcraft oil installed for under 25 bucks, and I get a few minutes to chat with friends.

 

Being a familiar face known for caring for his automobile who visits often takes the edge off of questions of abuse and neglect. Moreover, my dealer doen't have any oil rack monkeys. Every tech does everything, and I like having an experienced eye looking under my car every so often. He may see something I won't notice.

 

It's your choice, but visiting the dealership shouldn't be such a trying experience. Once you get to know them (and they know you), you would be surprised at what they are willing to do for you. Case in point...Just yesterday, I had shorty headers installed by my dealership for only 200 bucks (plus a 50 buck tip to the tech). Clean and smooth install, no problems, and I think it goes this way because the techs do take pride in their work, just as you and I do in our work.

 

Being a dealership tech is like being any other repairman. All the customers bitch about failure, and few say thanks. Say thanks once in a while, and see how things change.

 

Happy motoring, gents.

[Grabber]

Grabber, I wonder how the ramps would work with a Shelby GT...You indicated that you had to use a 2x12 in front of the ramps for your GT/CS, but the Shelby GT is at least an inch lower than the GT/CS...Have you tried the ramps with a Shelby GT??? Just curious...

 

 

The GT/CS will make it up the Rhino rams witout the board in front of it. However,there is only 1/8 of an inch clearance.

 

I have some photos of that for you showing the use of no 2X10

 

 

So if you put the 2 by material down in front of the ramp, it will raise the car 1-1/2 inch. My GT/CS front facia measures 6-3/4 inces from the concrete to the lower front bumper. You should measure yours and that will tell you if a 2 by 10 in front will work for you.

 

Here are photos of the 2X10 in front method on a GT/CS.

 

[Grabber]

If you have a slick garage floor, put the ramps on 2 rubber backed rugs that you can swipe from your wife. This will prevent the ramps from sliding on the approach. :ninja:

[slamarre]

69dejavue,

 

I live in St Augustine, FL 32092.

 

Anyone living close to this area?

[69dejavue]

Slam- your new nickname, I live in OH and cannot help you but I am sure there is someone here that would take the 30 minutes to show you how to do it. It is very easy but I would still recommend you have someone walk you through the first time. I bet you know someone that does change thier own oil that would be willing to help. Again, recommend full synthetic, the best filter (not made in Mexico), and the right tools and equipment.

[LuLu]

Again, recommend full synthetic, the best filter (not made in Mexico), and the right tools and equipment.

Help me out? I don't understand what the problem is with filters made in Mexico. Which filter is it, and has there been a problem with them?

 

Lots of stuff is made in Mexico and shipped for assembly here, a google search seems endless. Moreover, IMHO, if it has Motorcraft's name on it, are they not accountable for any failure?

[mrhugger]

Lu lu

any pics of those headers? thanx Steve

[69dejavue]

LuLu, the filter made in Mexico is the MFL 820. I assume the M stands for Mexico. The outer can is thinner, the inside metal support is thinner and the anti-drain back valve is not made of silicone. I would rather have the best filter and be confident rather than fight with Ford if there were a problem. Based on the above I would prefer the made in America filter. Or the Mobil One, or Amsoil filter along with full synthetic oil as recommended by Ford.

 

I echo Steve's comments above and am curious about your shorty headers.

[shelbytexan]

i'm sure glad we are not talking about an engine rebuild here.this forum could go on for months on that subject.there's a bunch of gear-heads on this forum that love to talk about cars and thats why i like to see whats going on every day or two.if you have a question then you can bet there is someone that has the answer.where else can you get ten different ways to change your oil and they all be right.you got question-this forums got answers.you guys do a great job,now get my scoop fixed.

[LuLu]

Gents...Thanks for asking. I took some pics of the headers after the install, but there is not much to look at because they bend down under the head. These headers really tuck in to tight spaces.

 

I'll post a full report after I get some dyno numbers this week.

[zdle]

Gents...Thanks for asking. I took some pics of the headers after the install, but there is not much to look at because they bend down under the head. These headers really tuck in to tight spaces.

 

I'll post a full report after I get some dyno numbers this week.

 

I have been putting my 07 White SGT on the tracks at Willow Springs as much as I can , and running all the sessions ...................I prepare by , Changing Oil the day before Mobil-1 5w20 Syn , and a fresh Mobil -1 Oil Filter , I drain , and fill the transmision with Mobil -1 ,75-90 Syn, and I drain and fill the Diff with Mobil-1 75-90 Syn...........................maybe anal , but 3 weeks ago a guy with a Superformance Daytona Coupe grenaded the diff .......................a few bucks for fresh lube might be worth it in the long run.......................

 

Oh ya , and I clean the Air filter with warm water , and Simple Green , rinse it with warm water , and let it drip dry ...............the I spray a very light coat of the red K&N oil on it , and wah-la the thing runs like a Cheata ......................when I'm done at Willow Springs Race Way in the Mojave desert I drive it 200 miles back to the Santa Barbra coast across a great twisty Hwy 166 ...................with Eric Clapton playing on the CD ..................Loud ...................ZDS

[69dejavue]

I have been putting my 07 White SGT on the tracks at Willow Springs as much as I can , and running all the sessions ...................I prepare by , Changing Oil the day before Mobil-1 5w20 Syn , and a fresh Mobil -1 Oil Filter , I drain , and fill the transmision with Mobil -1 ,75-90 Syn, and I drain and fill the Diff with Mobil-1 75-90 Syn...........................maybe anal , but 3 weeks ago a guy with a Superformance Daytona Coupe grenaded the diff .......................a few bucks for fresh lube might be worth it in the long run.......................

 

Oh ya , and I clean the Air filter with warm water , and Simple Green , rinse it with warm water , and let it drip dry ...............the I spray a very light coat of the red K&N oil on it , and wah-la the thing runs like a Cheata ......................when I'm done at Willow Springs Race Way in the Mojave desert I drive it 200 miles back to the Santa Barbra coast across a great twisty Hwy 166 ...................with Eric Clapton playing on the CD ..................Loud ...................ZDS

 

ZDLE, correct me if I am wrong; and I do not have my owner's manual; but I believe you should be using Automatic Transmission Fluid in your transmission rather than 75-90 oil. In addition I believe the differential should be 75-140. If you are changing the rear differential fluid that often have you looked at a different rear end cover (chrome or aluminum) with the drain plug so you would not have to remove the cover each time? FRPP, and others, make good looking rear differential covers. In addition if you are driving in that hot of climate, and drag racing as much as you can, I would recommend switching to the 30 weight oil, either 0W-30 or 5-W-30) . SAI recommended the 30 weight oil. Do you have the underhood sticker on your model that recommends the 30 weight. And by the way, this is not meant to launch another argument about the 30 weight oil. SAI put the sticker under the hood not me.

[69dejavue]

I don't have my owner's manual so can someone else confirm re the transmission and rear end fluids.