Sharp GT500 Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 I finally had a chance to make a front licenses plate bracket (pic 1). I think it turned out great. It tucks between the front of a steel beam and foam, then clamps on a 3/4 steel lip on the bottom of the beam. I also put ghost stripes in my plate cover (pic 2). The ghost stripes were easy. I just taped off a one inch stripe on the inside center and taped off the whole outside. Then I bead blasted the inside. It's a subtle effect in day light but looks pretty cool. The flash exaggerates the effect in picture 2. I'm going to do another one for the back. I used two pieces of 1 1/4 by 1/4 thick aluminum (pic 3) and one piece of 1 1/2 by 1/4 thick to clamp and tie the two brackets together (pic 4). I originally was going to use a bracket across the front of the brackets (just behind the plate) but found it unnecessary. I used 1 1/4 because it was what I had. It's harder to bend but more ridged than 1 inch. I bent the two 1 1/4 pieces into a "J" shape (pic 5). The long side is 5 1/2 inches. the bottom is about 4 1/2 inches the small side is about 3 inches. The angle on the bottom to match the bumper is 12 degrees. you have to have a minimum of 4 inches between the inside sides of the "J" (4 1/2 on the outsides). This is as close as I felt I could get with out touching under load. I put two rubber bumpers on the back side in case it does touch it won't scratch the car. I did my bends in a vise. You have to use a torch to heat up the aluminum and get a halfway decent bend. I drilled my holes first but I shouldn't have done that. It's hard to get the bends exactly the same and the first time I mounted it you could see the one side curving down. I had to sharpen up the one bend to hid it behind the plate. If you wait to drill holes , you can position plate where you want it and cover the bends. Same for the clamping side. Slide the brackets into place, then draw a line where the metal edge is. Drill just below edge. I made the 1 1/2 inch bracket 8 1/4 inches long and installed two button head allen bolts on the lower edge (pic 6). I did this so the bracket pivots and clamps squarely on the metal lip (pic 7) It's hard to see how it clamps in the photo so here is a shot with a piece of card board representing the steel lip. (pic 8) This is what the "J" brackets look like installed with no plate. (pic 9) notice the difference in bends i was talking about earlier. I have sense fixed that. Here is a shot of the clearance between the rubber bumper on the bracket and the bumper itself. In this shot the plate bolts stick too far through the brackets. I fixed it when I put the plate cover on (pic 10). Here are some various finished shots. (pic 11, Pic 12, Pic 13) Picture 13 also shows the rubber bumper I stuck to bracket. I used stainless steel bolts and service removable lock tight on every thing. The brackets are very close to the bottom of the bumper but don't touch it. You can decide how close you want to get when you mark the clamping holes. Remember, all the hole you drill in the "J" bracket will be taped holes. I used 1/4-20 bolts. A plate cover is necessary because the edges of the plate can cut you when you wash the car. I plan on putting some spotting ink on the rubber bumpers and (cough) track test it to 120 mph (cough) to see if the bracket bends back and touches the bumper. I'll keep you posted. I hope this helps out people who want to put on the front plate without drilling holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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