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Kenne Bell 2.6 on the three valve?


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Anybody had one on their SGT yet?I'm thinking of putting one on my Bullitt.The complete kit is about $5700 and they claim you can make roughly 530+ RWHP on thirteen pounds of boost.That should get me in the 11's on less boost,Anybody got an opinion on them?

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Anybody had one on their SGT yet?I'm thinking of putting one on my Bullitt.The complete kit is about $5700 and they claim you can make roughly 530+ RWHP on thirteen pounds of boost.That should get me in the 11's on less boost,Anybody got an opinion on them?

 

 

The only opinion I can offer is go for it, I want to keep my Bullitt stock but I sure miss the power of the GT500's. You know what would really be cool is if Roush offered the intake from the P51 mustang which uses the 2.3 TVS supercharger........what this would mean is the stock GT500 Eaton supercharger could then be used on the 3 valve motor......there are a lot of good used stock GT500 superchargers around and will be many more with all the Supersnakes being done......Roush guys.....Hint...Hint...if any of you read this board!

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The only opinion I can offer is go for it, I want to keep my Bullitt stock but I sure miss the power of the GT500's. You know what would really be cool is if Roush offered the intake from the P51 mustang which uses the 2.3 TVS supercharger........what this would mean is the stock GT500 Eaton supercharger could then be used on the 3 valve motor......there are a lot of good used stock GT500 superchargers around and will be many more with all the Supersnakes being done......Roush guys.....Hint...Hint...if any of you read this board!

That's an idea for sure that bears some investigation.

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I have the KB 2.6, polished, It's very nice, I havent had a paxton, so I cant tell you the differnce, I always liked the KB so I got it, 6lbs boost, because my daughter drives it also, plenty of HP it will get me where I want to go. Rick

sckeene_bell.JPG

sckeene_bell.JPG

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I have the KB 2.6, polished, It's very nice, I havent had a paxton, so I cant tell you the differnce, I always liked the KB so I got it, 6lbs boost, because my daughter drives it also, plenty of HP it will get me where I want to go. Rick

Hi Rick,

 

You have any pictures of your install. I'm also thinking about going with the Kenne Bell 2.6 and would really like to see how a polished one looks on the Shelby GT.

 

I can get one installed here in Tampa for around $7K, intercooled and polished. How's that compare to there in CA?

 

I was also thinking about keeping it around 6 to 8 lbs of boost just for reliability but it's nice to know that if I would decide to crank it up a bit everything is in place to make it happen with just a pulley change. How's the power difference with 6lbs of boost compared to the stock SGT?

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The KB twin screw seems to be the most efficient piece for the money.You can make 445 RWHO on 8 lbs of boost which puts it right on the edge for a stock motor.Plus as it's been stated a pulley change and away you go.They claim the flash tune provided will adapt to a header install with no additional tuning.Supposedly it keeps the air/fuel ratio in check which would be a benefit down the road,Also no retune to add or remove boost through pulleys.They make it sound like the best deal out there,Of course they are trying to sell me something.

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IMHO...A chapter from my "been there, did that" education.

 

Just want to add that I am pleased to see some common sense posted re: boost. 13 PSI will kill a stock 3V engine in a short time.

 

6 to 8 PSI is still very effective with a PD or a centrifugal blower, and without unnecessary risk to the bottom end. An ocassional 10 PSI for a track event is acceptable, but not full time on the street.

 

The 4.6L-3V may be the best engine design to come out of Ford, but don't forget what it's made of.

 

The stock NHV/Windsor aluminum block is the same block used in all 4.6L RWD applications, including police and public service. The crankshaft is externally balanced cast iron, which is good up to 500 brake/crank HP without much worry. Yes, you would fare better with a steel forged crank, but that's building a race engine, isn't it?

 

The connecting rods are mass produced "cracked" powdered-metal and perhaps the weakest link in the production engine. They can endure down pressure in the compression stroke, but tend to stretch from sudden decelleration. Once they stretch, they will bend, or, snap at the stretch point just like pulling taffey, and window the block. Sadly, once this happens, everything else in the neighborhood gets destroyed and often the true point of failure is misdiagnosed.

 

The stock pistons are "hypereutectic" cast aluminum, formed with a high (16-18%) silicon content. They are also Teflon coated, thus often a victim of high combustion temps and detonation. Once you break through this teflon coating, the high silicon content begins to melt. I won't go on with the possibilites, but remember that detonation and pre-ignition are deadly diseases. You can control this by controlling engine operating temps, combustion charge temps, spark, timing, as well as fuel quality and supply. The rest of the engine is fairly solid and well done, but all of it has limitations and IMHO, the ceiling for safe and care-free power is 500 Brake/crank HP. On a 5 speed manual SGT, you should see 450-460 RWHP.

 

OTOH...Torque moves the car, not HP. Build torque and you will be pleased with your SGT performance. Y'all know the "pulling" sensation in the seat of your pants, that's torque. Maximize that, and don't worry about the RWHP numbers. HP doesn't move the car, it's just another speedometer.

 

If you want to run high boost (10+ PSI), do things right and build the engine now. It will be cheaper in the long run. A blown/damaged engine is worthless, and often more costly due to collateral damage to other structures. Either start fresh with virgin assemblies, or, improve what you own now.

 

There are dozens of vendors who offer a custom built short block to your exacting needs, and they are rather inexpensive when compared to repairing a blown bottom end. You can save yourself almost HALF over repairing a blown engine if you skip to the last page.

 

Just my .02C, gents. Happy motoring!

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I was interested in the KB when I did mine, I've always heard good things about them but I found they have the throttle body on the wrong side and it made there intake track unacceptable to me. You have to carve on the core support and put the aircleaner out between the core support and grill. I've no doubt it works just fine I just thought the Whipple was a much cleaner application.

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Here is the KB

Now that is a nice piece!I'm pretty sure that is the way I will go.Not to keen on the core support cutting,I'll try and find out just how much we are talking about.Anybody?

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I was interested in the KB when I did mine, I've always heard good things about them but I found they have the throttle body on the wrong side and it made there intake track unacceptable to me. You have to carve on the core support and put the aircleaner out between the core support and grill. I've no doubt it works just fine I just thought the Whipple was a much cleaner application.
I've investigated the FRPP/Whipple newest edition which is a little better than the last generation as far as heat and power production go.FRPP told me today that they won't release the 08 version pending CARB approval for at least another 6-8 weeks :angry22:
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I've investigated the FRPP/Whipple newest edition which is a little better than the last generation as far as heat and power production go.FRPP told me today that they won't release the 08 version pending CARB approval for at least another 6-8 weeks :angry22:

 

FRPP takes the orders (as well as Whipple). Whipple ships the kits.

 

issues with the whipple certs too? :banghead:

 

Whipple was certified back in the second week of February. They are currently waiting on the production of the new airbox. They have three different companies making the varying components and are waiting for the pieces to start rolling in.

 

Due to a change in the 2008 Mustang GT airbox all the aftermarket companies had to change as well. However, Ford didn't get anyone the heads up, so now everyone is playing catch-up. Way to maintian the info exchange Ford! :banghead:

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If you want an honest and wide variety of answers about the 2.6 KB setup on a three valve you should ask this question over at www.s197.com. Several guys on there have that blower setup and can give you firsthand answers about engine longevity and how much power you can safely make on the stock shortblock.

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If you want an honest and wide variety of answers about the 2.6 KB setup on a three valve you should ask this question over at www.s197.com. Several guys on there have that blower setup and can give you firsthand answers about engine longevity and how much power you can safely make on the stock shortblock.
Thanks!
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