Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

Absolute hood scoop final fix.


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 229
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Gentlemen,

 

We have had more than enough responses so Heath is currently setting up a production space to produce the vinal-ester resin hood scoop. He asked me a question today that I couldn't answer so let me know your opinion. Will most owners want to use the black plastic block off plate at the entrance of the scoop that came with the original or will most owners like me want to leave that off so it doesn't look phony? When you order your scoop you can tell Heath if you want your scoop manufactured to specifically accommodate that black plastic block off plate.

 

Second, I am assuming that all of the Shelby scoops (originals) that are riveted on, are attached with 25 rivets. As Shelby has changed the design a few times, does anybody have a hood scoop with a different number of rivets than 25? Assuming that all of these scoops have 25 rivets, our replacement will have 25 rivets holes in the exact same location.

 

I will post an address, phone number and e-mail contact information tomorrow and he will produce them on a first-come first-served basis. Heath will be painting my scoop today or tomorrow and I can't wait to see it. :happy feet: :happy feet: I will of course post photos the moment I have them.

 

Cheers,

 

Chip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gentlemen,

 

We have had more than enough responses so Heath is currently setting up a production space to produce the vinal-ester resin hood scoop. He asked me a question today that I couldn't answer so let me know your opinion. Will most owners want to use the black plastic block off plate at the entrance of the scoop that came with the original or will most owners like me want to leave that off so it doesn't look phony? When you order your scoop you can tell Heath if you want your scoop manufactured to specifically accommodate that black plastic block off plate.

 

Second, I am assuming that all of the Shelby scoops (originals) that are riveted on, are attached with 25 rivets. As Shelby has changed the design a few times, does anybody have a hood scoop with a different number of rivets than 25? Assuming that all of these scoops have 25 rivets, our replacement will have 25 rivets holes in the exact same location.

 

I will post an address, phone number and e-mail contact information tomorrow and he will produce them on a first-come first-served basis. Heath will be painting my scoop today or tomorrow and I can't wait to see it. :happy feet: :happy feet: I will of course post photos the moment I have them.

 

Cheers,

 

Chip

 

My concern is changing the car's restoration ability by drilling holes in the original SGT hood. Can his procedure be done without drilling any new holes in the hood, but using the original holes already in the hood? Also would like to know if removing the scoop block will cause any issues with hood vibration or rain/debris going into the engine compartment...

 

If these questions can't be answered, I'm out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My concern is changing the car's restoration ability by drilling holes in the original SGT hood. Can his procedure be done without drilling any new holes in the hood, but using the original holes already in the hood? Also would like to know if removing the scoop block will cause any issues with hood vibration or rain/debris going into the engine compartment...

 

If these questions can't be answered, I'm out.

So why not get another hood from the bone yard and store the original hood?

 

Can't be much more work starting from scratch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So why not get another hood from the bone yard and store the original hood?

 

Can't be much more work starting from scratch.

 

 

If I get another hood(which I sense is what will happen due to not honoring craftmenship), it will most likely be a raised heat extraction hood such as the KR. I don't want any clearance issues either when I install the whipple. I guess I'll lose the strut brace, but I can live with that since I'm more into drag racing than road racing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My concern is changing the car's restoration ability by drilling holes in the original SGT hood. Can his procedure be done without drilling any new holes in the hood, but using the original holes already in the hood? Also would like to know if removing the scoop block will cause any issues with hood vibration or rain/debris going into the engine compartment...

If these questions can't be answered, I'm out.

 

Kurgan,

 

Your concern is a bit confusing as the riveted factory Shelby scoop requires 25 holes being drilled in the hood and attaching it using rivets. The original 07 Shelby hood scoop was attached by drilling eight big holes through which bolts were passed plus two small holes at the leading edge of the scoop through which two small nuts and bolts were passed. Many original 07 Shelby owners not only have the 10 holes drilled that attach the original scoop, they also had a warantee repair where the dealership drilled 23 additional holes (the two leading edge holes at the front of the scoop were reused) to attach the replacement scoop. Anyone with an 08 Shelby GT already has the 25 holes drilled in hood that will be enlarged slightly so that rivet-nuts can be used in place of rivets. I have had my car up to 110 mph with the scoop block removed and there is no vibration. Nor would I expect any as that area of the hood on all cars is a very low pressure area. As for rain and debris going into the engine compartment, that would only happen if you choose to drill out the area underneath the scoop. The vents over the engine on my Ford GT as well as the side scoops feed air directly into the engine compartment along with any rain or debris that happen to be in that air. I don't drive my collector cars in the rain because most of the filthy water and debris are kicked up into the engine compartment from the bottom up being slung off the tires and sucked up through the turbulent air underneath the car. As for restoration ability, you're 2007 car already has eight big plus two small holes drilled through the hood. The original scoop utilizing those holes is neither manufactured or available anymore. If it goes bad you will need to drill the same 23 additional holes whether you use Shelby's replacement scoop or Heith's. If you want to use the block off plate, use it. If you're concerned about water and debris and you drive your car in those type of conditions, keep the scoop nonfunctional. If you're concerned about vibration of the hood, I've tried it at 110 mph, how fast do you want me to go? I don't say that facetiously, I'm serious. If someone has a concern, I'm the guinea pig and any mistakes can be made on my car so they won't be made on yours. Lastly, the hood on your car is a standard Mustang hood. There is nothing special or different about it. So as long as a standard hood is available for a Mustang, a Shelby GT is restorable. I hope this helps.

 

Chip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurgan,

 

Your concern is a bit confusing as the riveted factory Shelby scoop requires 25 holes being drilled in the hood and attaching it using rivets. The original 07 Shelby hood scoop was attached by drilling eight big holes through which bolts were passed plus two small holes at the leading edge of the scoop through which to small nuts and bolts were passed. So many original 07 Shelby owners not only have the 10 holes drilled that attacks the original scoop, they then went back under warantee in the dealership drilled 23 additional holes (the two leading edge holes at the front of the scoop were reused) to attach the replacement scoop. Anyone with an 08 Shelby GT already has the 25 holes drilled in hood that will be enlarged slightly so that rivet-nuts can be used in place of rivets. I have had my car up to 110 mph with the scoop block removed as and there is no vibration. Nor would I expect any as that area of the hood on all cars is a very low pressure area. As for rain and debris going into the engine compartment, that would only happen if you choose to drill out the area underneath the scoop. The vents over the engine on my Ford GT as well as the side scoops feed air directly into the engine compartment along with any rain or debris that happen to be in that air. I don't drive my collector cars in the rain because most of the filthy water and debris are kicked up into the engine compartment from the bottom up being slung off the tires and sucked up through the turbulent air underneath the car. As for restoration ability, you are 2007 car already has eight big plus two small holes drilled through the hood. The original scoop utilizing those holes is neither manufactured or available anymore. If it goes bad you will need to drill the same 23 additional holes whether you use Shelby's replacement scoop or Heith's. If you want to use the block off plate, use it. If you're concerned about water and debris and you drive your car in those type of conditions, keep the scoop nonfunctional. If you're concerned about vibration of the hood, I've tried it at 110 mph, how fast do you want me to go? I don't say that facetiously, I'm serious. If someone has a concern, I'm the guinea pig and any mistakes can be made on my car so they won't be made on yours. Lastly, the hood on your car is a standard Mustang hood. There is nothing special or different about it. So as long as a standard hood is available for a Mustang, thr Shelby GT is restorable. I hope this helps.

 

Chip

 

+1

 

Given that these are the same holes in the same place as the >3rd generation scoops there will be no issue down the road. Of course I will say that I suspect by the time these cars are collector's items we'll all be long gone and I could care less if my car is sells for less than others at some auction. In fact I want to do what I want and get my full $$$$$$ out of this car. I hope some guy is swearing my name in 40 years! :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurgan,

 

Your concern is a bit confusing as the riveted factory Shelby scoop requires 25 holes being drilled in the hood and attaching it using rivets. The original 07 Shelby hood scoop was attached by drilling eight big holes through which bolts were passed plus two small holes at the leading edge of the scoop through which to small nuts and bolts were passed. So many original 07 Shelby owners not only have the 10 holes drilled that attacks the original scoop, they then went back under warantee in the dealership drilled 23 additional holes (the two leading edge holes at the front of the scoop were reused) to attach the replacement scoop. Anyone with an 08 Shelby GT already has the 25 holes drilled in hood that will be enlarged slightly so that rivet-nuts can be used in place of rivets. I have had my car up to 110 mph with the scoop block removed as and there is no vibration. Nor would I expect any as that area of the hood on all cars is a very low pressure area. As for rain and debris going into the engine compartment, that would only happen if you choose to drill out the area underneath the scoop. The vents over the engine on my Ford GT as well as the side scoops feed air directly into the engine compartment along with any rain or debris that happen to be in that air. I don't drive my collector cars in the rain because most of the filthy water and debris are kicked up into the engine compartment from the bottom up being slung off the tires and sucked up through the turbulent air underneath the car. As for restoration ability, you are 2007 car already has eight big plus two small holes drilled through the hood. The original scoop utilizing those holes is neither manufactured or available anymore. If it goes bad you will need to drill the same 23 additional holes whether you use Shelby's replacement scoop or Heith's. If you want to use the block off plate, use it. If you're concerned about water and debris and you drive your car in those type of conditions, keep the scoop nonfunctional. If you're concerned about vibration of the hood, I've tried it at 110 mph, how fast do you want me to go? I don't say that facetiously, I'm serious. If someone has a concern, I'm the guinea pig and any mistakes can be made on my car so they won't be made on yours. Lastly, the hood on your car is a standard Mustang hood. There is nothing special or different about it. So as long as a standard hood is available for a

 

Mustang, thr Shelby GT is restorable. I hope this helps.

 

Chip

 

Chip

 

Don't get me wrong. Your research is interesting and appreciated, but it's just not for me. Anyway you look at it for me since mine is an '07, it will require drilling more holes in the hood than came from the factory. Since Shelby has not publicly announced an offical fix yet that suits me by way of sending me a recall letter, I'm inclined to keep it original.

 

I might have to one day purchase his fix and install it on a different hood if not having a hood that is original-looking eats at me too much. In that case, I'd buy it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will most likely be ordering this fix. IMO this is exactly what SAI was hoping for. Someone to step up and fix their shortcomings and them not have to pay for it. Oh well it will just take care of me ever spending any money at SAI again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will most likely be ordering this fix. IMO this is exactly what SAI was hoping for. Someone to step up and fix their shortcomings and them not have to pay for it. Oh well it will just take care of me ever spending any money at SAI again.

 

Gentlemen,

 

I will be spending tons of money at SAI in the future as I live, sleep, and breathe Shelby automobiles. Near the end of the abbreviated 2009 Mustang production run I will be ordering a brand-new GT500 to add to my stable. Please keep in mind that Shelby is a relatively small organization today just like they were back in the 1960s. They tried a novel approach in attaching a scoop made out of material similar to that of the bumper cover to an aluminum hood and it didn't work out too well. Whatever fix they come up with will have to be mass producible and of reasonable cost. When Shelby pays for the warranty replacement of a hood scoop it probably kills the majority of the profit that they made on that Shelby GT.

 

The Ford GT had over $50 million lavished on it in development costs alone. It went through a rigorous set of tests identical to that of a production car that would be produced by the tens of thousands even though the Ford GT had a production run of only 4038. Yet shortly after customers started driving the cars the transaxle bolts started failing which disabled the cars and left customers of this $175,000 car stranded by the side of the road. Many owners were livid as two years went by without a fix. Many would not drive their cars very far from home. Finally an independent company named Accufab produced a set of super human indestructible bolts and solved the problem. I purchased four sets of those Accufab bolts, one set is on my Ford GT now, one set is in the glove box of my car, and two sets are in my garage at home. No first-time effort is perfect, no matter how much money is spent on it. Be it $175,000 Ford GT, our multibillion-dollar space shuttle, or the Shelby GT. Still, I'm glad they produced all three!

 

Now, on to something more exciting! Here's pictures of my new scoop on my car, painted, hood scoop functional, and beautiful! :happy feet: :happy feet: :happy feet: When I first saw it today I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. Heath's work is absolutely masterful. Since Heath was painting my hood scoop, I had him remove the tape stripes on my hood which were not properly centered, and he painted the silver stripes on my hood as well. I tried to take some shots with outside light reflecting off the scoop so you can see how beautifully smooth it is. It lays down against the hood perfectly and with the exception of the shiny hex head screws holding it down instead of the not quite so beautiful aluminum rivets holding down the original scoop, I defy anybody to tell the difference visually.

 

The 1966 GT350 had an open scoop and no insulation on the bottom of the hood. I haven't decided yet if I want to go that direction in which case I would paint the bottom of my scoop white, or keep the hood insulation, cut out for the scoop opening as shown in the picture below, and paint the bottom of my scoop flat black. What do you think? I haven't even reinstalled the windshield wiper spray nozzles on the hood yet but I wanted to get it together to take some pictures to post here.

 

This vinal-ester resin fiberglass scoop can sit in scorching sunlight or freeze to well below zero and it will not change shape nor will its strength be affected. I bet my life upon this material every time I pull eight G's in my Glasair III aircraft as the wing spar is made out of this same material.

 

Heath LaHoste will be posting a phone number, as well as e-mail and physical addresses in the next day or so for those members who would like one of these hood scoops.

 

Finally, I'd like to give you my opinion of how this modification will affect the value of your car now and in the future. It appears that many members confuse the originality, flaws and all, that would help a car score top honors in a Concours D'Elegance with monetary value. But in practice, they are two very different things. Let me give you two examples. The most valuable collector car on the planet that I'm aware of is Ford GT40 #1075 that traded hands several years ago for $15 million dollars. It would not score well in a Concours D'Elegance because when it was originally built its steel parts received no corrosion protection and all original Ford GT's started to rust literally the day they were built. At the time this was not a problem because they were intended to be race cars with a very limited lifespan. When these priceless automobiles are rebuilt today this durability problem is corrected with extensive corrosion protection which increases the value of these cars to a collector but decreases the number of points they would score at Pebble Beach. No individual except a concours competitor would spend half a million dollars restoring a collector car without making subtle modifications to enhance durability, corrosion protection, or cosmetic flaws. A winning car at Pebble Beach is assembled by a team of at least half a dozen individuals who work toward completing that car just the few months before the event. The winning car, even when stored in the best humidity and temperature controlled environment, will deteriorate during its first year to the point that it is no longer competitive at the highest level the following year.

 

My second example is the Ford GT. They are already starting to increase in value but the transaxle bolt problem is well-known. The first question even a buyer looking for a bone stock car will normally ask is "Have the transaxle bolts been swapped out?". If they haven't, it hurts the value of the Ford GT today. Remanufacturing a failure prone part in a more durable material or corrosion proofing the original part does not hurt the monetary value of even the most valuable collector cars, though it does hurt how they would score in a Concours event.

 

Even in a Concours event, original parts do not score better if they have already failed, corroded, warped, or broken. Original parts only score better if they are flawless. So if one wants a perfect original scoop, the only way to have one long term is to buy one from Shelby and leave it in the box sitting in your air-conditioned bedroom closet (they cost $450.00).

 

Using this history as my guide, installing one of these handmade fiberglass scoop's will kill your car's chances at next year's Pebble Beach event, so if that's your game, this is not your fix. But to an enthusiast, collector, or driver, if my car is sitting next to yours, and your scoop is warped and curled up in the corners while mine is smooth and flawless and lays down perfectly against the hood, I'm not going to bet on your car being worth more money-all things else being equal.

 

When I drive my Shelby GT I used to see daylight between the back corners of my scoop and the hood, ripples down the side of the scoop, and a big dip in the top just behind the front opening. And it bugged me!!! Looking out across my hood now, all is right with the world. The car seems faster (it's not), and I feel younger, smarter, better looking, and not quite so fat (unfortunately, I'm not). How much is that worth!!

 

Please post up and let me know what you think, pro or con, agree or disagree. All the best.

 

Chip

 

post-12804-1210468981.jpg

post-12804-1210468995.jpg

post-12804-1210468981.jpg

post-12804-1210468995.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't seem to find in this thread the total labor and material cost of the Chip Scoop. Does anyone know? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't seem to find in this thread the total labor and material cost of the Chip Scoop. Does anyone know? Thanks.

 

What will this cost and what will I get?--- Having discussed this at length with Heath LaHoste he will put these scoops into limited handbuilt and hand fitted (to an actual Mustang hood on a workbench) production and sell the scoops, rivet-nuts and bolts, a template and detailed instructions for $500 plus shipping. How long should it take a body man to install the scoop once it's painted?--- About two hours.

 

 

I'm hellbent on keeping my original hood original (I know what you said Chip and I totally agree with you, but this is my decision). So I got a quote for a second hood from one of the two body shops that I'll ever use (the other is in the process of expanding his business and wouldn't be able to take the project on for a few months).

 

Anyway, the quote was $1400 to $1700. This included purchasing a new hood, cutting a hole in the hood to make the hoodscoop functional, painted stripes vs stickers, and finishing the underside of the hood better than the Ford factory does. But it doesn't include the price of the hoodscoop itself. The quote range is due to the cost of a New Take Off Parts hood ($380) and a replacement hood from Ford ($750). So all told, I'd be in this for $1900 - $2200. :(

 

Hey, I just noticed that New Take Off Parts is no longer a supporting vendor of these forums. Uh!?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm hellbent on keeping my original hood original (I know what you said Chip and I totally agree with you, but this is my decision). So I got a quote for a second hood from one of the two body shops that I'll ever use (the other is in the process of expanding his business and wouldn't be able to take the project on for a few months).

 

Anyway, the quote was $1400 to $1700. This included purchasing a new hood, cutting a hole in the hood to make the hoodscoop functional, painted stripes vs stickers, and finishing the underside of the hood better than the Ford factory does. But it doesn't include the price of the hoodscoop itself. The quote range is due to the cost of a New Take Off Parts hood ($380) and a replacement hood from Ford ($750). So all told, I'd be in this for $1900 - $2200. :(

 

Hey, I just noticed that New Take Off Parts is no longer a supporting vendor of these forums. Uh!?!

 

Have I read Chuck's emails wrong?

 

All I need to do, I thought, was drill out the rivets and store the old scoop. Then using the included nut rivets, attach this scoop.

 

Done!

 

Did I miss something?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No I don't think you missed anything. There are 2 options here as I read this.

 

1. To duplicate Chip's set up. (functional scoop involving under hood modifications therefore more costly)

2. The route you mentioned. Just a replacement with minimal modifications. (less costly) you would still need to have the scoop painted. And I think you may have 2 options on the filler piece in the opening area. Leave it open or be able to attach the filler piece.

 

I could be wrong on the last statement though. Either way it is not a cheap fix but the result and the worry of movement goes away. I would do this, without the underhood modification, if I was running the stock hood. I would just keep the factory scoop and hang it in the garage. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No I don't think you missed anything. There are 2 options here as I read this.

 

1. To duplicate Chip's set up. (functional scoop involving under hood modifications therefore more costly)

2. The route you mentioned. Just a replacement with minimal modifications. (less costly) you would still need to have the scoop painted. And I think you may have 2 options on the filler piece in the opening area. Leave it open or be able to attach the filler piece.

 

I could be wrong on the last statement though. Either way it is not a cheap fix but the result and the worry of movement goes away. I would do this, without the underhood modification, if I was running the stock hood. I would just keep the factory scoop and hang it in the garage. :)

 

rosssvt,

 

Your post is correct. Most owners who go this route will undoubtably leave their hood as it is (without cutting a hole to make it functional), attach the new scoop in place of the original which they will store (assuming it's still in pretty decent shape), and install the factory black plastic block off plate at the front of the scoop. For owners who want to use that black block off plate, Heath will make specific accommodations so that it will slide right in to the fiberglass scoop. That would be option number one. If one was hell-bent on the rivet look and wanted to use the same aluminum pop rivets at Shelby uses to attach the plastic scoop on the 2008 Shelby GTs, that could be done but it would pose the same problem that Shelby had using those rivets. It's impossible to use just the right amount of tension when using a rivet. So using rivets and the block off plate would be option number two. Option number three would be installing the scoop using the rivet nuts and without the block off plate (I like the look without that plate). Option number four is to install the scoop and cut out the hood underneath the scoop to make it functional. Again, the center of a car hood at speed is a very low pressure area so even if that scoop was hooked up directly to the air cleaner it would not result in any performance gain so I would only recommend this to owners who were going to install the Ford racing Whipple supercharger. In this case the hood scoop may keep the Whipple slightly cooler, which will increase performance, and will allow the use of the strut tower brace (that we are developing) that will clear the Whipple using the additional clearance that that open scoop will provide.

 

This scoop, when installed with rivet nuts, can be removed in minutes and the factory scoop could be reinstalled using those same rivet nuts. For owners who leave the hood closed, the only modification to the hood would be slightly enlarging the existing 25 rivet holes to accommodate the rivet nut's. If this caused some owner heartburn, the holes could be used as is by staying with rivets. As the Shelby GT uses a generic Mustang hood and hundreds of thousands of these cars are on the road, that hood will be available from Ford for a very long time. It is not a hard to get Shelby specific part.

 

Chip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chip,

Is there any special tools required to install the rivit nuts ? Are the rivit nuts, screws and some sort of instructions included with the scoop ?

Don

 

Don,

 

Rivet-nuts are installed with a tool similar to the tool that installs a standard pop rivet. I understand that the Rivit-nut tool is fairly inexpensive and most body shops allready have one. The rivet nuts, screws, detailed instructions, and a template will be provided with the scoop. We have done this installation several times and several different ways searching for the best procedure that will yield the most consistent and repeatable results. We made several mistakes on my car before we found the winning formula. None of the mistakes we made did any damage to my car and the end result on my original hood is fantastic. I was inventing the wheel from scratch and I spent several weeks and several thousand dollars to develop this fix for my car. With all that work done and paid for I am happy to share the benefit of my experience with anybody who wants to take advantage of it.

 

Chip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don,

 

Rivet-nuts are installed with a tool similar to the tool that installs a standard pop rivet. I understand that the Rivit-nut tool is fairly inexpensive and most body shops allready have one. The rivet nuts, screws, detailed instructions, and a template will be provided with the scoop. We have done this installation several times and several different ways searching for the best procedure that will yield the most consistent and repeatable results. We made several mistakes on my car before we found the winning formula. None of the mistakes we made did any damage to my car and the end result on my original hood is fantastic. I was inventing the wheel from scratch and I spent several weeks and several thousand dollars to develop this fix for my car. With all that work done and paid for I am happy to share the benefit of my experience with anybody who wants to take advantage of it.

 

Chip

 

 

Chip , I have been an A&P since 1969 , I have worked on every type of air craft, and many rockets including the Space Shuttle .........I am currently a propulsion Engineer at Vandenberg AFB working for United Launch Alliance (formerly Boeing ) , on the Delta -IV program at SLC-6 , I do and have attended the Reno Air Races many times since 75', and I am sure I have seen you fly there or heard your name ? ......................You guys did a great job on the Scoop , I thought about the same fix ,I stop drilled and patched many Cessna 150 cowlings in the route to getting my A&P before the was composite materials . I just finished working 2 years at GE Flight Test in Victorville on the FTB (747 Flying Test Bed ) So much of the new technology is based on composites , friction stir welding , and plastics it's really hard to keep up with , The new Genx Engine for the 787 is a classic example only 18 Fan Blades beautifull works of art in themselves , and all composite cabon fiber / kevlar ...................similar ones in the GE-90 engine on the 777 , for many years with only three non critical failures ...............Unthinkable not long ago ......................So when I saw this problem on my 07 White SGT (by the way the white SGT is the best looking car of all Mustangs ever).........I realized Shelby is not a State of the Art Manufacture ..............this car begs for a functional scoop ..................yours looks fantastic , and I want to place a request for one now .............I have been putting my car on the track at every chance I get , it's the only way to realize how much fun this car can be . But I fear the existing scoop wont last long this way so I need a fall back soon , and don't want to completely destroy the original ........................How do I get one......................ZDS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello everyone,

 

I've finally gotten a chance to sit and read all the comments from everyone pertaining to Chip's new hood scoop. Chip and I go way back, so I would like to thank him for allowing me to build this for him. His attention to detail is what helped make his scoop turn out great! Second, I would like it to be known that I have the utmost respect for SAI and especially Mr. Shelby. I know most of you are frustrated with the current scoop issues and hopefully this will be a final fix for it so that the car looks how SAI intended it to. With that being said, I am currently finishing up the mold and getting ready to lay up my first scoop. My intent is to build them as needed, in primer, and provide instructions and hardware with the part. Just about any way of attaching can be done, however, I suggest the rivnuts and screws. Many of you have already gone through the warranty process, so your hood is already drilled for the 25 rivets. If any of you would like to attach it in a different way, I will see if I can accomodate it. Paint is an option, but a direct match could be difficult. I am open to suggestions, comments, and questions at this point, so please feel free to contact me.

 

Heath

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello everyone,

 

I've finally gotten a chance to sit and read all the comments from everyone pertaining to Chip's new hood scoop. Chip and I go way back, so I would like to thank him for allowing me to build this for him. His attention to detail is what helped make his scoop turn out great! Second, I would like it to be known that I have the utmost respect for SAI and especially Mr. Shelby. I know most of you are frustrated with the current scoop issues and hopefully this will be a final fix for it so that the car looks how SAI intended it to. With that being said, I am currently finishing up the mold and getting ready to lay up my first scoop. My intent is to build them as needed, in primer, and provide instructions and hardware with the part. Just about any way of attaching can be done, however, I suggest the rivnuts and screws. Many of you have already gone through the warranty process, so your hood is already drilled for the 25 rivets. If any of you would like to attach it in a different way, I will see if I can accomodate it. Paint is an option, but a direct match could be difficult. I am open to suggestions, comments, and questions at this point, so please feel free to contact me.

 

Heath

 

Since SAI is struggling with this, perhaps you should contact them and see if they want you to supply warranty parts. Or perhaps someone from SAI who reads this board (Amy?? Bud??) should contact you. Sure would save them a boatload of money for R&D and multiple repairs.

 

I applaud you for your work, but I just have a wee bit of a problem with paying for a fix out of my pocket that should be resolved under a warranty. Not saying others shouldn't, just saying I won't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since SAI is struggling with this, perhaps you should contact them and see if they want you to supply warranty parts. Or perhaps someone from SAI who reads this board (Amy?? Bud??) should contact you. Sure would save them a boatload of money for R&D and multiple repairs.

 

I applaud you for your work, but I just have a wee bit of a problem with paying for a fix out of my pocket that should be resolved under a warranty. Not saying others shouldn't, just saying I won't.

 

 

+ 1

 

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since SAI is struggling with this, perhaps you should contact them and see if they want you to supply warranty parts. Or perhaps someone from SAI who reads this board (Amy?? Bud??) should contact you. Sure would save them a boatload of money for R&D and multiple repairs.

I applaud you for your work, but I just have a wee bit of a problem with paying for a fix out of my pocket that should be resolved under a warranty. Not saying others shouldn't, just saying I won't.

 

Old guy,

 

At the start of this thread I opined that I believed most members would wait for a warranty fix from SAI. I have met and talked to many of the team members at Shelby Automobiles including Mr. Shelby himself. They are a quality group of individuals dedicated to running a successful organization and to protecting and preserving the Shelby brand and its legacy. I do not share the frustration expressed in some of the posts regarding this hood scoop as I'm certain they will ultimately come up with a suitable replacement. After having my Shelby GT for over a year however, that big cosmetic flaw right in front of my face every time I drove it motivated me to both fix it, make it potentially functional, and to make possible a strut tower brace that can be used with the Ford Racing Whipple Supercharger. Many members have already spent thousands of dollars to switch to the CS-6 hood, others have wasted countless days and had their car tied up for weeks at Ford dealership body shops having their scoop replaced under warranty multiple times, some have sold their cars, while others just let the problem bug them while they wait for the final warranty fix.

 

I don't like leaving my performance cars for long periods of time in service departments or body shops. I obviously would have preferred a free warantee fix to the time, effort, and money I expended in taking care of this myself. But to me, after considering the time, effort, delays, and aggravation of dealing with multiple warranty attempts, the benefit to having this issue resolved and behind me now greatly exceeds the money I spent to build and paint my new hood scoop. Compared to the thousands of dollars many of us are spending on superchargers and other modifications, this hood scoop is almost free.

 

I spoke to Bud on the phone the other day and Amy and Bud are both well aware of my posts and of this thread. While I am certain that Heath's new scoop would far exceed any durability standards required by the Ford Motor Company, a vinyl-ester resin part can only be made by hand and this is both time consuming and expensive which renders it an unlikely candidate for a warranty replacement part as thousands of them would have to be made in a relatively short period of time. Check out the photos below. The best shot is the one from the driver's seat that shows how perfectly this scoop lays down along the hood. I doubt any warantee fix will fit as precisely as this nor will it be made of material as durable as this.

 

For those owners who wish to put this issue behind them now rather than months or ??? off into the future and don't want to spend $2000 on a CS-6 hood, or just want to make their scoop functional, send Heath a PM. His screen name is Heath01. He'll fix you up.

 

On a down note. My Whipple supercharger was supposed to be installed this month at SAI. When I called Bud yesterday he informed me that they were way behind schedule and he would have put my install off until late September. Bummer. A buddy of mine who is the Ford dealer in Santa Margarita, California, tells me that the 40th Anniversary and Super Snake car production has SAI a bit behind on the production of the new GT500KR and that is their top priority right now. All the best.

 

Chip

 

post-12804-1210875560.jpg

post-12804-1210875577.jpg

post-12804-1210875560.jpg

post-12804-1210875577.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...
...