jared@lethal Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 We're proud to announce that we now carry Leonard Racing Products SPYDERSHAFT!! $574.95+ Shipping http://www.lethalperformance.com/pages-pro...aft-manual.html Spydershaft Features: -WEIGHT: APPROX 16.5 LBS -DIAMETER: 3.5" TAPERING TO 4" -MATERIALS: 6061T6 ALUMINUM .100" THICK TUBING WITH 3 LAYER INTERNAL DAMPER -SPICER -1330-SERIES U-JOINTS(can be upgraded to 1350 size for $150.00) -PRECISION BALANCED AND TIG WELDED -HP RATING: 500+RWHP DRAG TESTED WITH SLICKS -GAINS: .21 SECOND REDUCTION IN ¼ MILE E.T. ON A STOCK GT AUTO SAME DAY TRACK TEST BEFORE AND AFTER -ALL NEW COMPONENTS FROM FOMOCO/DANA-SPICER corp. -NO ADAPTERS TO VIBRATE -DESIGNED AND TESTED FOR 5R55S AUTOS AS WELL AS MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS -ABSOLUTELY OEM QUALITY ALSO AVAILABLE FOR V6 AUTO AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION '05-UP MUSTANGS This driveshaft was developed using components engineered by Fomoco originally for vehicles with the 5R55S transmission and 31spline limited slip 8.8 differential which is what the 05-up GTs also have. We choose this method for the unmatchable oem quality and durability found in production parts. Obviously Ford has a major issue with these two components no matter which vehicle they have put them in. this is why making a driveshaft for an S197 is much more difficult than previous model Mustangs. I tested this shaft on my ’06 GT auto for over 1 year before I started selling them publicly. They have been drag tested in 500+hp cars with slicks with no problems. The spydershaft works equally as well in manual transmission cars too. Okay lets address the myths about 4" driveshafts: * First: the difference in tunnel/floorboard clearance between a 3.5" and a 4" shaft is actually only ¼ inch and just ½ inch for a 3" shaft. * Second: clearance issues only arise when the suspension has been altered and the geometry has not been corrected. When you lower a car you need to address these issues or else the car is not going to handle or perform like it should. Most everybody will correct the front wheel alignment after lowering but the pinion angle is many times forgotten. These cars have a unique rear suspension which has grossly unequal length rear control arms. This design feature can create problems if the pinion angle isn’t corrected. I have tested the clearance issues at many different ride heights. They work great with stock control arms up to 1.5" lowered. If you want to go lower than that it may require upgraded adjustable control arms (upper or lowers) to correct the geometry. These cars are very sensitive to changes made in suspension and driveline components so it may be necessary to re-adjust your pinion angle if the car is lowered. * Third: small diameter steel shafts have less rotational mass. I won’t dispute that smaller diameter tubing creates this effect but lets face it the gains would be so small that they won’t make any noticeable difference in performance. Why do these require a new pinion flange? I don’t use adapters for many reasons but mainly because this driveshaft was developed to be used with the correct pinion flange. With all the vibration and harmonics issues these cars have I won’t even think about using an adapter to mate a u-joint cradle to a flange originally designed for a CV joint. I believe in doing things right the first time. Anyway replacing the pinion flange is actually less work than bolting an adapter up (6 bolts) then connecting the driveshaft (4 bolts) vs. 1 nut and 4 driveshaft bolts. The GT kit includes a new pinion flange and new factory Ford bolts making it as close to OEM as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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