CobraFun Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 I did my first set of burnouts the other day and the wheel hop was very evident. Any way to reduce this affect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT2666 Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 I did my first set of burnouts the other day and the wheel hop was very evident.Any way to reduce this affect? Upper and lower control arms should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purvis Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 I did my first set of burnouts the other day and the wheel hop was very evident.Any way to reduce this affect? The Wheelhop from the factory is ridiculous. How Ford left it that way is beyond me. I tried the following: (Keep in mind, I have Evo stage 2 which is about 630-650 hp) -Installed EVO lower control Arms. These are really nice Poly arms.. They lessoned the wheel hop by about 20%. They definately did NOT cure it on their own.. Next I installed the BMR upper arm, with the anticlunk bushings.. This is what really solved it IMO. The combination of both the upper and the lower arms are what keep your tail from vibrating up and down when you launch. If you replace just the lowers, the rear will still move around. The ride becomes slightlyharder in the rear with this combination.. But I acually prefer it this way.. Less "floaty"... ITs very livable. And I have NO strange noises from the rear. I love the way the car now is.. It launches perfectly off the line now.. It now "digs in" with a nice wisp of tire smoke and then goes. No wheel hop at all now.. :happy feet: Its the way the car should have come from the factory, but Ford couldnt do it, becaue they had to meet NVH requirements. Just do it!, and be done with it.. The parts are not that expensive .. Off the top of my head, I think 299 for the arms and around 200 for the upper. The lowers install in less than an hour. The upper takes about 2 hours. A good shop should charge you about 3 hours to do both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbalouzian Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 Upper and lower control arms should do the trick. Wow that is a sweet looking car. I have seen it before but never really payed attention. this morning for some reason that look is really nice. It like seeing a gile in school and never really paying attention until she shows up one day all made up and your like $hit she's hot. anyway just wanted to convey that your car really looks nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frydguy79 Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 i had the same problem, and i put the J&m upper and lower control arms on and NO more HOP and Brian is a great guy to do business with :happy feet: at HotPart . com just make sure you order all of the new bolts and fasteners for the project first i did it myself with a lift in less than 2 hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingram4868 Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 For you guys that have changed both control arms, does that help the little sideways hop you get when making turns and hitting a bump in the road? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purvis Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 For you guys that have changed both control arms, does that help the little sideways hop you get when making turns and hitting a bump in the road? Nope, not in the least. That is due to the suspension and the solid rear. Thats is exactly what an independent rear is good for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCMO-GT500 Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Nope, not in the least. That is due to the suspension and the solid rear. Thats is exactly what an independent rear is good for. ..my rear end movement over bumps is much improved with the steeda LCAs. Any movement away from the soft rubber bushings to the harder poly bushings will stiffen and slow down the movement of the rear. With just the replacement of the LCAs, my wheel hop is essentially gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT2666 Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Wow that is a sweet looking car.I have seen it before but never really payed attention. this morning for some reason that look is really nice. It like seeing a gile in school and never really paying attention until she shows up one day all made up and your like $hit she's hot. anyway just wanted to convey that your car really looks nice. Thanks VERY much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT2666 Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 For you guys that have changed both control arms, does that help the little sideways hop you get when making turns and hitting a bump in the road? I get no hop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shipwright Posted March 31, 2008 Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 Next I installed the BMR upper arm, with the anticlunk bushings.. Purvis Are the BMR Upper Control Arms with the anticlunk bushings the polyurethane ones sold by EVO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneDoc Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 FYI I changed only the LCA (Steeda) and that did the trick for me. it is alot less work than swapping the UCA and just as effective. I made the change myself. not a difficult install. changed them over a year ago and have had no hop since then. I ran the car at the track (drag strip) about a dozen times last year. wheel hop was never an issue. traction on the other hand.... Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purvis Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 Next I installed the BMR upper arm, with the anticlunk bushings.. Purvis Are the BMR Upper Control Arms with the anticlunk bushings the polyurethane ones sold by EVO. I have the BMR upper and the EVO lowers in this pic, along with the upper mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckstang Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 what location on the upper mount did you use and is your car lowered? Did the upper from Evo come with anit clunk bushings? Did you use relocation brackets on your lowers? Fred said you would need the brackets with the LCAs thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shipwright Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 I have the BMR upper and the EVO lowers in this pic, along with the upper mount. thank you Purvis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne4162 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Okay, wheel hop subject and an endless selection of parts. Thought I throw in something fantastic to see if anyone else has experience this outrageous display of horsepower with no wheel hop and it's truly skills related. Has anyone accelerated up to approximately 45 mph, dumped it into fourth, held the clutch down and revved up to 4-4 1/2 K rpms, then dump the clutch and flat out light those tires while cruising at 45 mph? Oh.. hell yes, I did and it was frakkin great!!!!!!!! Note: This is about as excited as I'll ever get on this forum. Now, to put this into prospective, I had my boss in the car and a combined age of over a hundred years, not to mention over 1100 lbs of weight in the car. Yes, we can lose some weight. Regardless, this is only a true testiment that Ford built a monster machine for us old, but yet alive kids. Fixed wheel hop problem. Burn outs at cruising speed ONLY. Airborne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COBRA32 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 If you want to fix the wheel hop and maintain the stock ride quality without changing the NVH of the car, get the Roush upper cotrol arm it did the trick for my car, plus its less than $300 dollars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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