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More responsive pedal


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I haven't noticed the lag, but I wonder if lag is built in for a reason? Eliminating the lag might be good for racing, but for daily, street use the lag is probably better and that's why its there (i.e., so the accelerator is not too touchy in stop and go driving).

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I haven't noticed the lag, but I wonder if lag is built in for a reason? Eliminating the lag might be good for racing, but for daily, street use the lag is probably better and that's why its there (i.e., so the accelerator is not too touchy in stop and go driving).

 

+1

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There is also another way I used on my stage 2 roush 2005 and done on shelby 07

 

Get in car shut door wait for all lights and bells wistles to go off, Nothing should be ON.

 

Put key in turn forward on but DO NOT start car.

 

Push gas pedal all the way down to floor slowly and hold 10 seconds

 

slowly let gas pedal back up then turn key back to off position.

 

wait 3 or 4 second then you can start the car and notice fly by wire will be reset.

 

If not try this procedure again and it should take the lag out the the throttle response

 

all it does it take the lag out for kids who to floor it qiuckly and crash the car, not that we would!!

 

I used this back in 05 on car and was told by Svt through the vine it was there for a purpose. Later Mickey

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There is also another way I used on my stage 2 roush 2005 and done on shelby 07

 

Get in car shut door wait for all lights and bells wistles to go off, Nothing should be ON.

 

Put key in turn forward on but DO NOT start car.

 

Push gas pedal all the way down to floor slowly and hold 10 seconds

 

slowly let gas pedal back up then turn key back to off position.

 

wait 3 or 4 second then you can start the car and notice fly by wire will be reset.

 

If not try this procedure again and it should take the lag out the the throttle response

 

all it does it take the lag out for kids who to floor it qiuckly and crash the car, not that we would!!

 

I used this back in 05 on car and was told by Svt through the vine it was there for a purpose. Later Mickey

 

Hmmm, just tried this on my 08 SGT, but checked for any "lag" before I started...didn't really detect any discernable difference after doing this...perhaps the "lag" problem was fixed in the 08 tune?

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I'm thinking based on the last word in this instruction I'm going to live with the "lag". I'm not a fan of "bad ju ju". :fear:

 

Rich

 

 

NOTE: "There is a rubber gasket that goes in the slot. MAKE SURE not to lose it, or crush it, this could cause your vehicle to accelerate uncontrollably! Screw the 5 TORX screws back in VERY CAREFULLY do not distort the cover, or you may change the position of the brushes and cause bad ju ju."

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I haven't noticed the lag, but I wonder if lag is built in for a reason? Eliminating the lag might be good for racing, but for daily, street use the lag is probably better and that's why its there (i.e., so the accelerator is not too touchy in stop and go driving).

 

 

the lag I am aware of is to eliminate driveline clunk when changing gears (tip in and out, on and off the throttle) and for smoother launches as you mentioned. most of the tuners change this very easily (wth throttle progression changes, not altering the throttle body, its easy) and the customer feels this immediately as a power increase whether it is or isnt.

 

prior to electronic throttles, the trick was the radius of the cam setup on the throttle body (or carb if you go back a bit) that the accelerator cable threads over. much tweaking was done to this radius to have just the right launch characteristics (not too agressive so you spill your coffee, but agressive enough to feel powerful at launch)

 

there were even service fixes where the radius of that cam was changed to eliminate complaints, now its just a service cal for the ecu if you get enough complaints

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the lag I am aware of is to eliminate driveline clunk when changing gears (tip in and out, on and off the throttle) and for smoother launches as you mentioned. most of the tuners change this very easily (wth electronic throttle, its easy) and the customer feels this immedialtely as a power increase whether it is or isnt.

 

prior to electronic throttles, the trick was the radius of the cam setup on the throttle body (or carb if you go back a bit) that the accelerator cable threads over. much tweaking was done to this radius to have just the right launch characteristics (not too agressive so you spill your coffee, but agressive enough to feel powerful at launch)

 

there were even service fixes where the radius of that cam was changed to eliminate complaints, now its just a service cal for the ecu if you get enough complaints

 

If you understand how these work and if you believe the article you know that you can't program this away. There is a dead spot in the pedal before the resistor is in play so the only fix is mechanical. Some seem to have some confusion on this point. I personally hate the dead spot it makes proper downshifts difficult because you have to use more throttle then you should.

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If you understand how these work and if you believe the article you know that you can't program this away. There is a dead spot in the pedal before the resistor is in play so the only fix is mechanical. Some seem to have some confusion on this point. I personally hate the dead spot it makes proper downshifts difficult because you have to use more throttle then you should.

 

i would absolutely never do the tweaking of the pedal position sensor shown in the article. it can be changed with a cal. there is a voltage reading in all pedal positions. by changing the cal, you change throttle progression. a given voltage from the pedal position sensor can be calibrated to deliver whatever throttle position is desired. the throttle body is just an air valve driven by an electric motor. the valve moves based on the voltage seen from the pedal position switch (after being processed by the ecu). you can cal in any throttle opening you want from a given pedal position. thats one of the many variables calibrators use.

 

you calibrate the throttle progression through the ecu to make the throttle response feel different. this is done frequently by the oems and most performance tuners. thats why the horsepower and torque dont change much on the dyno after a minor 91 octane tune, but the throttle feel can be improved.

 

the pedal position sensor and throttle position sensor body are pretty much fancy potentiometers, both constantly compared by the ecu

 

check it out

 

just borrow a scan tool, hook it up and watch a pedal or throttle body sweep, no voltage or % dead spot ever

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