Electrochromic (self dimming) Mirror Installation

[twobjshelbys]

For the search engine: self-dimming, electrochromic, Homelink.

 

These installation details are for a 2008 Shelby GT Convertible. I don't see any reason they would not also work for the coupe, and for that matter, both flavors of the GT500.

 

I started with the following mirror. It is made by Gentex, but they don't sell direct. This site lists the available combinations.

 

http://shop.autodimmingmirrors.com/products-full.asp.

 

This place has the complete list of products, but I did not get it from them. I got mine from Team Ford parts (http://www.teamfordparts.com). The Ford part number is 4L3Z-17700-BA for the one with compass/temperature/Homelink.

 

[sidebar: Team Ford is a great place. It seems they are referenced alot in this forum, and I also ordered my HD radio from them.]

 

Installation instructions

 

Give up on those that come with the mirror. Don't even bother. It's so generic that it's hopeless. I can summarize what they tell you to do: remove the old mirror, route the wires, plug them in, dress it up. Good luck. Easy if you’ve done it before, impossible if not.

 

More detailed instructions that provide a good starting point can be found at:

 

http://www.partscheap.com/08ford/instructi...nstructions.pdf

 

 

Brazen reference to partscheap.com, another place that seems to have alot of good priced parts, but this time Team Ford had the mirror and radio in stock and could overnight them for almost nothing. They were friendly on the phone and I wouldn't hesitate to order from them, it's just they didn't have what I wanted when I wanted it.

 

Also, since links don't last forever, these instructions originate from Ford. The reference number is SK4L3J-17A694-BA.

 

Even these instructions aren't enough

 

Tools

The instructions show a list of tools you'll need. Add to this the following.

 

"Tack puller", but it's essentially a "pry tool". It's wider than a screwdriver, and angled to provide a good "heel" for lifting, and wide enough that it doesn't leave scuffs.

 

Torx screwdriver set.

 

Loctite.

 

So, herewith are the modifications to their process.

 

If you have a convertible, put the top down. It's alot easier to reach stuff.

 

Remove the old mirror. There are several discussions in this forum about how difficult this was due to a retaining snap clip that was very difficult to release. My mirror was held in place purely by friction and while it was stiff, did come off without any difficulty. Be very careful to PUSH UP and towards the roof, and not to pull out, else you could damage or even pull off the windshield side connector. Don't install the new mirror yet.

 

Remove the passenger side visor and locking clip. You'll need a Torx.

 

Carefully remove the A-Pillar molding. The pry tool mentioned above will get it started. The instructions don't tell you, and if you've never removed it before, it is all friction fit. The top has a post guide and a metal spring clip. The middle is held in place with "giant velcro", and the back (where it mates with the dash) is held in place with some horizontal friction guides. A photo is attached so you get the idea of how it connects:

 

 

Next loosen the molding on the kick panel that is below the A-pillar along the passenger door to expose access to the passenger fuse box area. Once again, this is held in place with friction connectors.

 

Next remove the molding along the top of the windshield to the center. I was able to loosen this piece without the tool simply by continuing to release the friction fits along the way.

 

Carefully route the mirror cable through the V-notch in the molding along the existing cable down to the fuse box area. I held it in place by using some of the supplied cable ties (but don't tighten them yet).

 

Now you've got to install the temperature sensor. Forget what the instructions say about routing it. They tell you to try to route it down the drivers side through an access port that is above the brake pedal. Well, it's not there, at least not in my car. So I elected to leave the drivers side moldings intact and route the temp sensor cable along the passenger side as well. (Sorry, this is a bit nasty, and the most time consuming part.)

 

Start by removing the battery (disconnect both cables and put the battery on the floor). Next remove the battery tray. There are three screws holding it into place. You'll likely need an extension to the socket wrench to get to one of them. All of these used an 8mm (I'm sure but will check) socket, but whatever, it's the same size to remove the battery terminals, the strap holding the battery in place and the 3 battery tray screws. The battery tray screws are secured with Loctite, so they will take some muscle to loosen.

 

Once the battery tray is out you will see an air conditioning (silver) tube. Choose a place about half way along that tube (in the horizontal plane) where it follows the firewall and between the tube and the ledge in the firewall (in the vertical plane, the ledge is about an inch or so deep and going backwards towards the passenger compartment) and drill a hole through. Measure and contemplate - sorry I forgot to take a picture here - but it will come out just below all of the heat/AC stuff in the dash. Mine came into the passenger compartment and barely clipped the floor padding. Please note - there is plenty of space here to get a drill with no problems. However look at both sides – go too high and you might hit the wiring harness on the passenger side. Knowing this, the next time I would drill from the passenger side.

 

Route the temp sensor in the engine compartment. The cables are none too long and the shielding on the sensor cable is just long enough to run from the hole through the firewall, along the back [remember to route it so the battery tray can go back] along existing wiring harnesses to the front. Remember, you have to route this cable all the way from the front near the radiator to the mirror, including all routing and dressing. Take the shortest route you can. I clipped mine near the top behind the radiator, but may eventually splice in some additional wire and try to get it closer to the ground level. Attach all these with cable ties. The kit included ones that I used mostly in this area.

 

Put the grommet in the hole you drilled and feed the sensor wires through.

 

Now route the temp sensor wires through some loosely connected cable ties next to the wiring harness that goes into the fuse block area, and feed through the fuse block region, side door panel, A-pillar and all the way up to the mirror. Now work your way along side the mirror cable threading the temp sensor wires through the loose ties as appropriate. The instructions tell you how to release a little clip connector and insert the connectors into the block.

 

Seal the area around the grommet with GE Silicon and replace the battery tray (use Loctite on the screws) and put the battery back in the tray and reattach the battery retaining strap. Do not connect the terminals yet.

 

At this point I used some black tape to secure the temp sensor and mirror cables near the connector and at a few places along the way up. Connect the cable to the mirror and install the mirror on the windshield. Route the cables through the v-notch in the trim leaving enough slack to move the mirror, and then finish securing the mirror cable to the existing harness. At this point the trim can be reattached along this portion of the top of the windshield. You can also attach the trim piece that attaches to the mirror and covers the wires up to the V-notch.

 

Now continue routing the cable along the A-pillar and alongside the kick panel by the door. Here I did some special handling for the cables as they go from the kick panel fuse area to the top of the dash along the door. In this area I wrapped the wires with black electrical tape before routing it behind down along side the kick panel molding and down into the fuse box area. I secured it with black tape to hold it in place and then put the kick panel molding back in place.

 

General advice when routing the wires: Generous use of cable ties helps prevent cables from moving around and creating vibration and rattles and pinching of wires when reassembling. Securing wire with black electrical tape is a short term solution, especially in hot regions. It just deteriorates.

 

Reassemble the moldings. Put the kick panel back (it's all friction fit). Next put the A-pillar back. I had to reach in with the pry tool to raise the dash a little to get the lower part of the trim mated. Just don't force anything on the top - if the bottom knee is installed back to the dash correctly everything will just snap in place.

 

Reinstall the passenger sun visor and clip.

 

You now have finished the mechanical portion of the mirror installation. Yipee!!!

 

All that is left is the electrical connections. You should be left with the power connectors in the fuse block area.

 

Re-connect the battery terminals.

 

Use a crimp tool to attach the small spade lugs to the ends of the wires.

 

Locate fuses according to the instructions cited above. You will need one fuse that is on all the time (for the garage door opener buttons) and one that is only on when the ignition is in ACC or the engine is running (for the dimming mirror and compass/temp). I don't remember which ones I used but will get that info and update this when I get a chance later today.

 

Follow the remaining instructions for calibrating the compass and training the Homelink (Garage door opener) buttons.

 

It’s a shame that the car doesn’t come with this already installed. My wife’s ’99 Jeep had the electrochromic mirror and garage door opener buttons. This is not new technology and the same company has been supplying these parts for years. It ought to be a standard option in cars like this.

 

Note 1: The instructions say to connect the wiring into the fuse block. The connectors are long and might not actually allow the fuse block cover to be reinstalled. The taps on the fuses look fragile. If I had the map console light harness wiring diagram I would have spliced into it for power.

 

Note 2: The instructions want switched and unswitched power. The unswitched side is for the garage door buttons. I don’t think it would be a severe loss if both were connected to switched power. However, with the anti-theft system, I believe both power sources are present in the map light box.

 

 

I apologize in advance for any inaccuracies and reserve the right to edit this to make corrections as I re-read it. I'll keep it up to date with an edit history below:

 

Rev 1: Initial version

[twobjshelbys]

I wanted this to be separate:

 

Price for the mirror, part number 4L3Z-17700-BA, electrochromic/compass/temp/homelink from TeamFord (http://www.teamfordparts.com) was $375 (MSRP $425).

 

I also noticed the link to the install instructions isn't "live". If you copy and paste it into your browser it will work. I'll try to fix that up later.

[JeffIsHereToo]

I wanted this to be separate:

 

Price for the mirror, part number 4L3Z-17700-BA, electrochromic/compass/temp/homelink from TeamFord (http://www.teamfordparts.com) was $375 (MSRP $425).

 

I also noticed the link to the install instructions isn't "live". If you copy and paste it into your browser it will work. I'll try to fix that up later.

 

 

Nice job! Great reference! Thanks for putting so much work into this!

 

Fixed the link.

[twobjshelbys]

Next (hopefully tomorrow) is the HD Radio/iPod kit.

[TurboGT]

Just a quick note on routing wiring from the engine compartment to inside the cabin.

I learned this from modding my Mustang GT. If you are trying to access either of the two large wiring harness grommets that pass thru the firewall on either side - if you remove the plastic inner fender liner liner on either front fender - this provides easy access to these big grommets. You can then also access the wiring bundles along the front of the frame to secure new wiring to it.

[twobjshelbys]

Just a quick note on routing wiring from the engine compartment to inside the cabin.

I learned this from modding my Mustang GT. If you are trying to access either of the two large wiring harness grommets that pass thru the firewall on either side - if you remove the plastic inner fender liner liner on either front fender - this provides easy access to these big grommets. You can then also access the wiring bundles along the front of the frame to secure new wiring to it.

 

This might be an alternate to drilling through the firewall and would allow routing the temp sensor wires right into the fuse block. But I couldn't find where that harness went from the other side. With the panel mentioned above it might be obvious where it goes into the engine compartment.

[SGT2666]

This might be an alternate to drilling through the firewall and would allow routing the temp sensor wires right into the fuse block. But I couldn't find where that harness went from the other side. With the panel mentioned above it might be obvious where it goes into the engine compartment.

 

Both sides actually have a small nipple on the rubber grommet that seals the bigger bundles, its like it was put there for people to run wire through.

[ZepDad]

Completed my install of the Gentex GENK51A electrochromic mirror (with homelink, compass and temp). A big improvement over the stock mirror. Purchased off ebay for $279. Used twoshelys instructions as well as Ford's pdf and instructions located here jackphelps.

 

I'll add a few tips that might help the next person considering the upgrade.

 

- Removing passenger side visor is optional. Wires route fine under the headliner front edge (V-notch). I pulled back the headliner slightly at the far right corner and routed the wire underneath for additional security before making the run down the A pillar. YMMV.

 

- Kick panel removal is optional. Access to the fuse panel is easier if removed but I didn't have an issue.

 

- My '07 doesn't have molding along the top of the windshield. Maybe this was an '08 addition, or I don't understand twoshelbys mention of the molding.

 

- No drilling is required, at least on '07's! And no need to remove battery tray. As pictured in the jackphelps instructions there is a hole already in the firewall on the passenger side. It is grommeted and perfect for running the temp wire. I simply removed the grommet, slit the padding, fed the wires through, and replaced the grommet (remember to slide grommet over the wire before passing into passenger compartment). I ran the wire around the battery (to keep away from engine heat) then to the front, cable tying as I went. The actual temp sensor is affixed to the vertical aluminum grill bracket. Removal of the plastic shroud is required. The sensor should be placed where air can access from the front; trapped heat will cause a misreading. I agree with twoshelbys, running the temp wire is the biggest pain.

 

- Removal of the A pillar trim exposes a hole at the corner of the dash that the wires can be easily routed through. This drops the wires directly down into the fuse box area behind the kick panel. Running the wires this way took no special handling and the kick panel can be left alone.

 

- Follow jackphelp's instructions regarding the wiring. I picked up two Bussmann Add-A-Circuits from Autozone (mini fuse). Also buy some additional 10amp fuses, the Add-A-Circuits require two each (one for the new circuit, one for the existing circuit). I made this mistake and had to make an additional trip. As pointed out in the instructions use the open fuse spots. #5 is switched, #9 is constant. Almost too easy. Note: The tight configuration of the #5 fuse spot means that the Add-A-Circuit will block replacement of the fuse panel cover. It's a lame engineered cover anyway. I was happy to leave it off.

 

I recommend the upgrade to anyone. For about $300 you can have a modern mirror and ditch the garage door opener.

[William Rodgers]

Funny this post came up, this is the only option my car did not come with and I want it. When I get my Kicker speakers installed I will more than likely get this done as well.

 

I rarely drive at night, but I love the compass as well so it will be worth it for me.

 

If I could get the Garage Remote as well that would be even better, does Ford offer than? I would rather stay factory.

[ZepDad]

Funny this post came up, this is the only option my car did not come with and I want it. When I get my Kicker speakers installed I will more than likely get this done as well.

 

I rarely drive at night, but I love the compass as well so it will be worth it for me.

 

If I could get the Garage Remote as well that would be even better, does Ford offer than? I would rather stay factory.

 

 

Homelink replaces your garage remote. It programs by holding your opener at the mirror and pressing the buttons in certain sequence. The mirror comes with programming directions.

 

Gentex makes nearly all the electrochromic mirrors in today's new cars, including Ford. There are several versions available depending on the options you want. The Ford badged ones can be purchased from the dealer or other online retailers. Here's one web site PartsCheap 05-09 Mustang Electronics. As you can see the Ford badged unit with Homelink, compass and temperature is $382. Oddly the unit without temperature is a few dollars more. The Ford part number is 4L3Z-17700-BA for the mirror with all features. I would expect the dealer to charge several hundred dollars for installation.

 

The Gentex GENK51A is the same exact Homelink + compass + temperature unit but without the Ford part number. It can be purchased for $100 less and installed in just a few hours with basic hand tools.

 

Choosing which way to go is a matter of preference and depth of pocket.

[twobjshelbys]

I added a simpler model of this to my Dodge truck. Since the truck already had the compass/temp in the overhead unit I just got the self-dimming + Homelink version. The overhead console also had switched and unswitched power that could be directly tapped without having to go to a power center. It is likely that the Ford over head console also had those power wires. Next time I would spend more time hunting down that.

 

On the Mustang I replaced the supplied fuse bridges with "fuse buddy"s. Much more reliable connections.

[William Rodgers]

Homelink replaces your garage remote. It programs by holding your opener at the mirror and pressing the buttons in certain sequence. The mirror comes with programming directions.

 

Gentex makes nearly all the electrochromic mirrors in today's new cars, including Ford. There are several versions available depending on the options you want. The Ford badged ones can be purchased from the dealer or other online retailers. Here's one web site PartsCheap 05-09 Mustang Electronics. As you can see the Ford badged unit with Homelink, compass and temperature is $382. Oddly the unit without temperature is a few dollars more. The Ford part number is 4L3Z-17700-BA for the mirror with all features. I would expect the dealer to charge several hundred dollars for installation.

 

The Gentex GENK51A is the same exact Homelink + compass + temperature unit but without the Ford part number. It can be purchased for $100 less and installed in just a few hours with basic hand tools.

 

Choosing which way to go is a matter of preference and depth of pocket.

 

 

Thank you, I am definately getting one, outside Tempature as well.

 

Add another to my list.............

[07-2937]

welcome to the world of good stuff lol