Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

Supercharger Q's


Recommended Posts

I gave up trying to get answers from the nearest SAI shop to me in Ohio... (Tasca in R.I. )They don't answer the phone at all, and answer only one question in email regardless of how many you ask. Now I have decided to throw caution to the wind and go local for an install of pro charger psc-1 H.O. I am paying 4600. for the hardware and it gets custom tuned. I get dyno sheets too and apparently I can choose where I want the horsepower to be between 460 and 500+. The shop I am using recommends I stay around 470 to 480. Why is this? Is there that much greater danger of me blowing it up if I go to 500 ponies? This is my first screamer and I am pretty much inexperienced at racing. Of course I don't plan to race regularly, but if challenged, I seldom back down. Who would go for max power, and who thinks I should follow the shop's advice? Does anyone think it's a bad idea to do this at all... not going with Paxton or Whipple? and an SAI install?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're shop is right, the engine's connecting rods are good to about 475 rwhp. After that, it's pretty much just prayer that holds them together.

 

Bang for the buck, your local shop is the way to go. But if you want a bona fide "GT/SC", it has to be done by a Shelby authorized mod shop (SAI, Tasca, Quantum Performance).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're shop is right, the engine's connecting rods are good to about 475 rwhp. After that, it's pretty much just prayer that holds them together.

 

Bang for the buck, your local shop is the way to go. But if you want a bona fide "GT/SC", it has to be done by a Shelby authorized mod shop (SAI, Tasca, Quantum Performance).

 

 

To add...I believe the difference in HP numbers would be due to how lean they can make it to pull higher numbers, that IMO could be very bad. Cutting back the fuel, just to get higher numbers can lead to catastrophe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm in Ohio and I had trouble with TASCA too. You can check it out here.

http://forum.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24816

The Ford Racing Kit is rated at 500 hp and they say it's safe. They say it's tuned to be safe and you can get more from it if you put a custom tune on it (at your own risk!). With any other kit I agree with them, keep it in the 475hp range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The shop I am using recommends I stay around 470 to 480.

You should have the shop confirm if they are talking about Rear Wheel Horsepower (RWHP) or HP at the flywheel (aka Brake HP or SAE HP).

 

500 HP at the motor should be OK but 500+ at the rear wheels is pushing your luck on the 4.6L 3V motor. 450-475 RWHP is a pretty standard “safe” range but no matter how you slice it that much extra HP is going to shorten the lifespan of the motor and drive train components.

 

Also, you probably should not spend the money on the SC for extra HP unless you plan to make some suspension modifications and run on something other than the stock wheels/tires. Otherwise you’ll have an abundance of HP that you can use to smoke your tires but you won’t be going much quicker.

 

Lot’s of people push for brake upgrades with the SC also. My personal opinion is the stock brakes are fine for general road use and drag racing. If you are going to run autocross or on road race track then that’s a different story.

 

You will love the car with the SC (pretty much any brand/type) as long as you set up the rest of the car to take advantage of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would stay between the 425-450RWHP and be safe and last long time. Go for the gusto at 500 and you will be back at some shop, not to dyno but to get the engine re-done. Without forged components and a motor built for the extra boost/heat/strain etc you are doomed.

 

 

You should have the shop confirm if they are talking about Rear Wheel Horsepower (RWHP) or HP at the flywheel (aka Brake HP or SAE HP).

 

500 HP at the motor should be OK but 500+ at the rear wheels is pushing your luck on the 4.6L 3V motor. 450-475 RWHP is a pretty standard “safe” range but no matter how you slice it that much extra HP is going to shorten the lifespan of the motor and drive train components.

 

Also, you probably should not spend the money on the SC for extra HP unless you plan to make some suspension modifications and run on something other than the stock wheels/tires. Otherwise you’ll have an abundance of HP that you can use to smoke your tires but you won’t be going much quicker.

 

Lot’s of people push for brake upgrades with the SC also. My personal opinion is the stock brakes are fine for general road use and drag racing. If you are going to run autocross or on road race track then that’s a different story.

 

You will love the car with the SC (pretty much any brand/type) as long as you set up the rest of the car to take advantage of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks to all for the input. Radical08 just scared the hell out of me though! I am guessing I will opt for the lower end of the range, as I failed to mention that this is indeed rwhp, and I do not want to rebuild a motor EVER! Is it safe to assume use of a general formula of rwhp * 1.2 to get a relatively close estimate of HP at the crank?... So 475 rwhp approx. equals 570 hp at the crank?? Keep in mind guys that I truly am going to use your advice when they ask me where I want this to be. I know I wont be the meanest thing out there, so let's shoot for longevity. Lastly, what suspension upgrades are you thinking about?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are we allowed to swear on here? I just followed Sharp GT/SC's link about Tasca and I have discovered I am paying more here than I would be for the Paxton there! My cost for the charger is 4600.00 labor is 1000.00, and the custom tune and Dyno time is 750.00. After tax I am over 6700.00 bucks. It's already ordered and scheduled so I am stuck with it. I had communicated with Kyle at tasca last month and he quoted me 8300.00 for the whipple so I asked about Paxton and never got a reply. Also, doesn't the whipple install delete the brace under the hood?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are we allowed to swear on here? I just followed Sharp GT/SC's link about Tasca and I have discovered I am paying more here than I would be for the Paxton there! My cost for the charger is 4600.00 labor is 1000.00, and the custom tune and Dyno time is 750.00. After tax I am over 6700.00 bucks. It's already ordered and scheduled so I am stuck with it. I had communicated with Kyle at tasca last month and he quoted me 8300.00 for the whipple so I asked about Paxton and never got a reply. Also, doesn't the whipple install delete the brace under the hood?

 

 

 

They must be made out of gold now? I am seriously thinking of just doing it my self if i go that route. I can get the whipple kit across the street from ford for 4,200, install my self, and be done with it. All these prices are getting out of hand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They must be made out of gold now? I am seriously thinking of just doing it my self if i go that route. I can get the whipple kit across the street from ford for 4,200, install my self, and be done with it. All these prices are getting out of hand.

 

A wise choice...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are we allowed to swear on here? I just followed Sharp GT/SC's link about Tasca and I have discovered I am paying more here than I would be for the Paxton there! My cost for the charger is 4600.00 labor is 1000.00, and the custom tune and Dyno time is 750.00. After tax I am over 6700.00 bucks. It's already ordered and scheduled so I am stuck with it. I had communicated with Kyle at tasca last month and he quoted me 8300.00 for the whipple so I asked about Paxton and never got a reply. Also, doesn't the whipple install delete the brace under the hood?

 

 

http://www.alternativeauto.com/prodserv/wh...e-3valve46.html

 

This is Lidio's shop, he is first rate:

I have used these guys before for tuning etc. on Vortech's centrif. w/351 Windsor applications. It is tough to tune for all weather conditions. we run cool weather here in the michigan spring, which needs different a/f than in summer when its 90F. my fox body ran 500-600 rwhp with EFI but open loop, but when it got into summer high temps, i had a little trouble with head gaskets. the conservative tune is always the way to go, dont run on the edge. it gets expensive. my $.02

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi i just wanted to drop you my opinion ..I to am in the process of putting a Blower on too ..I am going with a PAXTON NOVI 2200SL intercooled kit ....first reason is because its what shelby uses...second reason is its self lubricating ...no tapping your engine oil pan to feed oil to blower just like PRO-CHARGER ..but main reason is quality and fit and finish ....you should do some research ..they are both powerfull set ups but the paxton in this application is better.. also these engines are not forged they can only take so much ...I will run 430 rear wheel hp Max on mine with a rich mixture 10.7-11.1 Air fuel and moderate to conservative timing advance so the stock engine will live ...also take into account you dont want to run it on the ragged edge ..god forbid you get bad gas or hot day ...there will be no room for error like detonation .....actually if you dont want that big of a blower the novi 1200 will do the job for you ...run 7-8 lbs boost for about 390-430 rwhp depending on tune and altitude where you live and 9-10lbs boost for 430-500rwhp same as last stated.......hope this helps you out and good luck with set-up...ps dont use the generic base program from a hand held tuner they are to inconsistent and not accurate ..there are to many variables involved ...like Density altitude timing fuel spark cuves ECT ..if you spend the money on the blower take it to a reputable place and have it professionally tuned!!!! JUST MY 02$ good luck James!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well... I am learning a whole lot here. Thanks to all. In the beginning, I was pretty impressed with the idea of 500+ hp. Now I am seeing the other side of the coin. I appreciate your advice 03svt, and I originally intended to go with the novi 2200 but couldn't get the answers I wanted from Tasca. I suppose if I had read more here I would have found all I needed. Anyway, My parts are all ordered and shipped to my shop in Akron Oh. and my appointment is set for the 28th So I will stick with the pro charger. I am going to request a tune for no greater than 450rwhp and start looking into some suspension mods. I have heard that I can get the traction control and electronically limited top speed deleted...is this true? Is it a good idea? Is there more I need to tell the shop as far as air fuel, or will they know what to do? My neighbor recommended them and he owns a small auto parts chain and has used them routinely so I guess they are reputable. Thanks again for all of your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi i just wanted to drop you my opinion ..I to am in the process of putting a Blower on too ..I am going with a PAXTON NOVI 2200SL intercooled kit ....first reason is because its what shelby uses...second reason is its self lubricating ...no tapping your engine oil pan to feed oil to blower just like PRO-CHARGER ..but main reason is quality and fit and finish ....you should do some research ..they are both powerfull set ups but the paxton in this application is better.. also these engines are not forged they can only take so much ...I will run 430 rear wheel hp Max on mine with a rich mixture 10.7-11.1 Air fuel and moderate to conservative timing advance so the stock engine will live ...also take into account you dont want to run it on the ragged edge ..god forbid you get bad gas or hot day ...there will be no room for error like detonation .....actually if you dont want that big of a blower the novi 1200 will do the job for you ...run 7-8 lbs boost for about 390-430 rwhp depending on tune and altitude where you live and 9-10lbs boost for 430-500rwhp same as last stated.......hope this helps you out and good luck with set-up...ps dont use the generic base program from a hand held tuner they are to inconsistent and not accurate ..there are to many variables involved ...like Density altitude timing fuel spark cuves ECT ..if you spend the money on the blower take it to a reputable place and have it professionally tuned!!!! JUST MY 02$ good luck James!!!

 

How are you going to get the 2200 down to 430rwhp? Mine is pushing 499rwhp with the Paxton tune, i cant see you losing that much HP just by backing out timing. I guess you could get the bigger pulley and put it on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...
...