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little help on upper control arms


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Does anyone know how to dial in hte angles required in between the trans and the 3rd member using the adjustable upper control arm?? Its suppose to be 2%

 

If you are just replacing the fixed one with an adjustable, pre-set it based on the length of the old one before installing new. That will be easiest and close enough. If this is going in with a new 1 piece driveshaft, you can buy angle measuring devices from the hardware store with a magnetic base for under $15-20. ACE Hardware calls it a "Magnetic Angle Locator". You can slap it on the tranny tail shaft flange and the pinion flange on the diff to measure the angles.

 

Todd

07SGT1638

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If you are just replacing the fixed one with an adjustable, pre-set it based on the length of the old one before installing new. That will be easiest and close enough. If this is going in with a new 1 piece driveshaft, you can buy angle measuring devices from the hardware store with a magnetic base for under $15-20. ACE Hardware calls it a "Magnetic Angle Locator". You can slap it on the tranny tail shaft flange and the pinion flange on the diff to measure the angles.

 

Todd

07SGT1638

 

Todd thanks for the info. Thats allot of help. Jonathan

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If you are just replacing the fixed one with an adjustable, pre-set it based on the length of the old one before installing new. That will be easiest and close enough. If this is going in with a new 1 piece driveshaft, you can buy angle measuring devices from the hardware store with a magnetic base for under $15-20. ACE Hardware calls it a "Magnetic Angle Locator". You can slap it on the tranny tail shaft flange and the pinion flange on the diff to measure the angles.

 

Todd

07SGT1638

 

was that in LATIN? :hysterical2:

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I set mine for 3 degrees where did you get 2 degrees?

I got it from the lakewood instructions. I even believe it may be -2 degrees. Its either that or the other way around. I cant remember if it says stock is 2 degrees and move it to 2 degrees negative or 2 degrees negative stock to 2 degrees.

 

Do you run a 4" drive shaft?

Because I am and it makes a difference 3" or 4" for clearance

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I got it from the lakewood instructions. I even believe it may be -2 degrees. Its either that or the other way around. I cant remember if it says stock is 2 degrees and move it to 2 degrees negative or 2 degrees negative stock to 2 degrees.

 

Do you run a 4" drive shaft?

Because I am and it makes a difference 3" or 4" for clearance

 

One is positive, the other negative. They are equal but opposite. Off the top of my head (documenation is at home, sorry) I don't remember which is which (tranny or diff). The angle was 1.5-2 degrees as I recall when I installed my Coast driveshaft. Basically you measure the angle of the tranny at the tail shaft flange, and the diff is equal to, but opposite that.

 

Todd

07SGT1638

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One is positive, the other negative. They are equal but opposite. Off the top of my head (documenation is at home, sorry) I don't remember which is which (tranny or diff). The angle was 1.5-2 degrees as I recall when I installed my Coast driveshaft. Basically you measure the angle of the tranny at the tail shaft flange, and the diff is equal to, but opposite that.

 

Todd

07SGT1638

 

 

I installed a 4" Coast drive shaft but I did not install a adjustable Upper Control Link ? ...............Should I get one , and is it a must have with the new Drive Shaft ...................I have driven a couple thousand miles in this configuration?..................The drive shaft is a great mod because you can feel the difference.....ZDS

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If you are just replacing the fixed one with an adjustable, pre-set it based on the length of the old one before installing new. That will be easiest and close enough. If this is going in with a new 1 piece driveshaft, you can buy angle measuring devices from the hardware store with a magnetic base for under $15-20. ACE Hardware calls it a "Magnetic Angle Locator". You can slap it on the tranny tail shaft flange and the pinion flange on the diff to measure the angles.

 

Todd

07SGT1638

Thank you, Todd. This is great advice, a good place to start is duplicating the OEM settings.

 

I studied this aspect of rear suspension for almost 6 months with a professsional race car chassis designer before building custom upper and lower control arms for the Mercury Marauder. I learned quite a bit. But, boiled down, it's not rocket science.

 

You're looking for negative pinion angle, meaning the snout of the pumpkin (pinion) is pointed down while at rest. Max is 3 degrees on a live axle, you might get away with a tad more with IRS, but we don't have IRS. More than 3 degrees will lead to wheel hop in a hard launch, and cause premature wear on the U-joints in casual driving.

 

The intent of the negative pinion geomerty comes to play only under hard acceleration. The power being put into the pinion will cause the live axle to "screw, or, twist" itself upward and clockwise (looking at it from the back of the car) delivering the power directly into the pinion, and later to the axles.

 

I suggest you begin as Todd suggested, duplicating the stock length. You can fine tune from there, but I suspect you will find the best performance in both hard acceleration and casual driving at 2 degrees. BTW, these measurement are not affected by a solid, or, two-piece driveshaft.

 

If you get into lots of drag racing and move up to slicks or drag radials, bump it one more degree. You may even find a little experimenting with splitting the offset, 2-2.5 degrees on the right, a full 3 degrees on the left. But, this will bite you back in autocrossing and road racing, so, know what you want to do before trying it.

 

Take your time and keep notes between adjustments. Every car will react a tad different, there is no universal setting. This has a lot to do with what other suspension components are in place, and most most factory instructions are written for a stock Mustang/Mustang GT suspension. With our upgraded rear suspension on the SGT, I think 2 degrees will be your best bet.

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