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Rust prevention idea


1FAFP90

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Since I just got my car and there is minimal rust in the rear suspension area, what do you guys think of this idea:

 

Sand the rust off and put a very light coating of either lithium grease or wd-40? Would that slow the rust down considerably?

 

I really don't want to go down the route Grabber and others have taken for painting, etc. as mentioned in the other threads. I'm not trying to start another big thread on the subject.

 

Thanks

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Did this with mine & still not bad but I will paint mine in the spring like our friend Grabber.

I have a new 08 w/ zero rust. I haven't driven it much. 30 miles maybe. I was thinkn about spraying the axle w/ a clear coat acrylic enamel. That way, the original color of the axle, etc will still show but it will be protected. Any thoughts?

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Why don't you want to paint it.

 

Are you afraid that in 40 years that it won't be worth as much because you painted it ?

 

If that's the case, I gotta , well excuse me.....Laugh :hysterical2:

Grabber, If my axle were rusted, I would have to paint it. I couldn't stand to see the rust there. However, those of us who are fortunate to have no rust issues yet, I feel it is best to apply a clear coat over the factory color & seal it in before the rust starts.

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Grabber, If my axle were rusted, I would have to paint it. I couldn't stand to see the rust there. However, those of us who are fortunate to have no rust issues yet, I feel it is best to apply a clear coat over the factory color & seal it in before the rust starts.

Agreed.

 

.....but I think if you look close, the rust has already started.

 

Could you please show me a photo of your rust free rears. :)

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I have a new 08 w/ zero rust. I haven't driven it much. 30 miles maybe. I was thinkn about spraying the axle w/ a clear coat acrylic enamel. That way, the original color of the axle, etc will still show but it will be protected. Any thoughts?

This method works very good if you have no surface rust, i used a high heat clear spray on some of my other cars and it really lasts a long time and the coated parts look brand new. i even coated some of the front suspension parts, driveshafts,trans and bottom of the engine oil pan. this also didnt seem to affect the hardware under the car all of the nuts and bolts loosened as normal with no problems. Dont forget this will reqiure you to cover the car with a dropcloth so you wont get any overspray on the paint. I used a product called VHT high heat spray it comes in different finishes matt, satin, gloss, and high gloss i believe JEGS sells it from thier catalog.

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Why don't you want to paint it.

 

Personally, I saw (read your excellent tutorial thread) you go through an awful lot of work to do it right. I don't have the skills to remove the rear suspension piece by piece, prep it, and then put it all back together again. If I knew I had your skills, then it's a no brainer.

 

I'll be pushing up daisies long before rust is a big issue with my car.

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Like Grabber, said most of the rears will have rust on them if you take the wheels off and really look .Some are rusty even before they are installed in the cars the axle tubes are bare metal as you guys know and even the slightest bit of humidity or moisture will start the rusting process. I had a few 2003 and 2004,mustang svt cobras and all of them believe it or not had rust forming on the dashboard skeleton, and seat frames,and springs i wish ford would paint these parts from the begining but they dont on the mustang line of cars.

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Personally, I saw (read your excellent tutorial thread) you go through an awful lot of work to do it right. I don't have the skills to remove the rear suspension piece by piece, prep it, and then put it all back together again. If I knew I had your skills, then it's a no brainer.

 

I'll be pushing up daisies long before rust is a big issue with my car.

:headscratch:

 

You might want to read it again.

 

All I removed was the tires.

 

It was a simple task.

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Agreed.

 

.....but I think if you look close, the rust has already started.

 

Could you please show me a photo of your rust free rears. :)

 

I would like to see one to ,mine had rust the day i picked up. These cars are built sent to be striped for a week & sit in a shipping yard & if it does rain on them the moisture in the air is enough to start the bare metal to rust

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These axles are bare metal and will rust with any type of moisture on them. It doesn't have to be salt ladden snow or rain, but condensation or water over-spray from washing will fuel the corrosion process.

 

IMO - anything you can do to keep moisture and oxygen off the surface would help. So regardless of the color of the paint, whether clear or whatever - it should help.

 

These cars probably come from the dealer with their axles showing signs of rust. I was surprised to see how much rust accumulated after owning my car 3 months and I live in a dry climate and it never sees rain.

 

Ford didn't do us any favors here. :soapbox:

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I just finished my axle/driveshaft painting endeavor and it was a lot of work to do right. I took off the driveshaft, lower shock mounts and rear wheels was all. I used Eastwood Products Extreme Chassis Black top coat and Rust Encapsulator for a primer. The Encapsulator comes in several colors to include clear. Eastwood also has the clear only in quart cans so you need a spray rig or have to brush it. The Encapsulator can be used alone as a primer and a top coat if desired. (I wanted to make it look better so I used the black.) If you are interested in the clear it does not appear in their catalog and you have to call them. I also took a tour of Drake Enterprises in Las Vegas recently and was told they sell the same product line under a different name and Drake has bare steel and cast iron colors if you desire. I didn't ask Drake but they might also have the Rust Ecapsulator in a clear rattle can.

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Check Eastwoods website-they have a tech article comparing POR-15 to Encapsulator.

Agree.

 

POR is NOT the best stuff for this application. Works good on VERY rusty areas - actually needs it to properly bond - otherwise you'll be less than satisfied with it.

 

I know MANY high quality restoration guys who wouldn't touch that if you gave it to them free - check out the Master Series line. Just as expensive - but works like it should.

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Here is the product I am using POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint

You can paint right over the rust with this stuff.

I used the POR Marine Clean and Metal Ready solutions to prep my axle before applying Master Series. The Marine Clean is a cleaner/degreaser and Metal Ready removes the rust, etches the metal and leaves a zinc phosphate coating that further resists rusting.

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Phosphoric acid will etch and convert any rust present. Just wipe on, wait a few and rinse with water, let dry and shoot with your favorite color. Most metal shops have it for "pickling" and the one in my area gave me a quart which will last forever. While it is not very caustic you should use eye protection and rubber gloves. If it drips on the concrete flor it will fiz and bubble and leave a scar.

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Agree.

 

POR is NOT the best stuff for this application. Works good on VERY rusty areas - actually needs it to properly bond - otherwise you'll be less than satisfied with it.

 

I know MANY high quality restoration guys who wouldn't touch that if you gave it to them free - check out the Master Series line. Just as expensive - but works like it should.

 

Is there any thread that shows in pictures how this is done? and if not can someone who did it post pics .

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Omg it looks great i will never be able to do that, is there any place in MI that does it this professional way and not screw it up?

Where is your location, is the rust in the pics from humidity only? i live in MI and i had to drive it couple of times on the snow so i think i may have more rust than what you have on yours i hope i haven't waited too long before rustproofing it.

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Omg it looks great i will never be able to do that, is there any place in MI that does it this professional way and not screw it up?

Where is your location, is the rust in the pics from humidity only? i live in MI and i had to drive it couple of times on the snow so i think i may have more rust than what you have on yours i hope i haven't waited too long before rustproofing it.

I'm in Phoenix, Arizona. My car never sees rain or snow and the climate is mostly arid and after owning my GT500 for a few months the rust was starting. I didn't see any rust on the axle when I first took delivery, so I believe water spray from washing helped it along. IMO the rusty axle is a cosmetic/quality issue more than anything else that Ford should never have let happen, especially in a car that is geared towards the enthusiasts.

 

Painting the axle does take some effort but anyone can do it. Most everyone who painted theirs started with a rusty axle - some worse than others. I chose to remove the rust, but some folks have used a rust converter that turns the rust into a primed surface ready for paint. Just search the threads in the Modifications and Tech forum for "rust" or "paint" and you'll find all sorts of good threads with lots of useful information.

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