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waxes and sealants


shelbang

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I have been advised by an autobody guy never4 to apply wax or finish

 

over a new paint job. Being a chemical, the paint needs to breath in

 

order to cure and harden. Leave the paint alone until water stops beading

 

then you know the paint is fully cured and you can apply your wax.

 

Any thoughts??? Makes sense to me, but I've never heard that before.

 

 

KingCobra.

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I have been advised by an autobody guy never4 to apply wax or finish

 

over a new paint job. Being a chemical, the paint needs to breath in

 

order to cure and harden. Leave the paint alone until water stops beading

 

then you know the paint is fully cured and you can apply your wax.

 

Any thoughts??? Makes sense to me, but I've never heard that before.

KingCobra.

 

 

Your body guy is full of BS, or is old. Or he's referring to what happens in his shop. The factory finish is baked on using a process that the body shops do not have. I would advise waiting 6 months after something has been repaired by his shop...

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Zaino system...by hand.

 

 

Ditto..and 3 coats to boot...allthough I got this email maybe I don't need all the coats, after speaking with Sal he said it all depends on my skills at applying the finnish.

 

Hope his helps,

 

Cheers,

 

Requis

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: Sal Zaino [mailto:zainobros@zainobros.com]

Sent: May 22, 2006 1:43 PM

To: Barry@home

Subject: Re: Detailing shops in Toronto Canada that gurantee use of your products

 

ZAINO APPLICATION TIPS

 

1. Because Zaino Show Car Polish is optically perfect (99.9%) The

optimum results are achieved by using over wax free paint.

2. If you are looking for the ultimate paint surface preparation. Use

Zaino Z-18 ClayBar first or skip to Step 3.

Zaino Z-18 ClayBay was designed to remove airborne contaminants,

paint overspray, water spots, rail dust, industrial fallout, diesel fuel

& catalytic converter residue and any other bonded surface contaminants

from paint. All cars even brand new factory paint has airborne

contaminants... Here's the deal. The non-abrasive Z-18 ClayBar will remove

any surface contaminants from the paint finish and not hurt the

clear-coat. The ClayBar will get that paint finish smooth as glass. Now

remember waterspots, bird droppings and bug guts if left on the

paint finish for any length of time. Will etch into the paint finish.

The ClayBar will also remove any store bought waxes....

I recommend you use my car wash (Z-7) as a lubricant for the ClayBar.

Just make sure to keep the surface area lubricated while using the ClayBar.

Use 1/2 capful of Z-7 Car Wash to 12 ounces of water. I use a spray bottle

for the mix. Shake it up and spray the area to be Clayed. Just make sure

to keep the surface area lubricated while using the ClayBar.

3. I would definitely recommend you remove the wax buildup on your

paint. Just use Liquid Dawn(hand dishwashing liquid) as a car wash. It

has a high alkaline content which cuts right thru carnauba wax,

paraffin, silicone oils, etc. This will get your paint finish squeeky

clean and wax free.

I don't advise making a habit of washing your car with Dawn. But for

this scenario it's fine. High alkaline products like Dawn are tough on

polishes. It will never harm the paint finish though. A car wash is made

specifically to clean without removing durable polishes. ALSO, Make sure

you remove any water spots, before you apply my products. Because Zaino

has no abrasives or harsh solvents it will not remove water spots or

stains. Z-18 ClayBar is great for removing any paint surface contaminants.

Re-wash the entire vehicle with Z-7 Car Wash immediately after the ClayBar

Cleaning Process.

4. The basic products you will need are Z-1 or the new ZFX, Z-2, Z-5(optional,

but highly

recommended for swirls and especially on darker colors), Z-6 and Z-7.

If you are going to use the NEW ZFX flash cure system, then skip step 5 and read

the ZFX

instructions below..

5. Start with Z-1 Polish Lok as per directions. Z-1 does not need to

dry. Remember do not wipe off the Z-1 Polish Lok. Apply Z-5 or Z-2

directly over the Z-1. Z-5 is the Hot ticket for a swirl free, flawless

paint finish. Usually one to three coats will accomplish that.

6. Let Z-5 or Z-2 polish dry at least one hour. Please NOTE: Zaino Show

Car Polish works best at 60 degrees or higher. However, it can be

applied down to temperatures of 45 degrees. It just will take much, much

longer to dry. As much as two to three hours drying time is required if

the temperature is 50 degrees or below. Also, If the humidity is high.

Longer drying time is necessary. Humidity is a killer on the drying time

of Z-2 or Z-5. The moisture in the air hinders drying

time up to four times longer than normal. Sorry, but I can't help this.

When you try to remove Z-2 or Z-5 when it is still wet. All you're

accomplishing is moving it around. Kinda like reapplying it. Also you

need to use a LARGE White 100% Bath size towel (please refer to my Tips

& Tricks sheet on my web site for the proper towels to use) to remove

Z-2 or Z-5. Smaller towels will not work efficiently.

To test if Z-2 or Z-5 is dry and ready to be removed. Wipe your finger

on a hazed section. It should immediately come off and leave a crytal

clear finish. If it smears, it is still wet. You can leave Z-2 or Z-5 on

for hours or overnight if you desire. When it is not humid Z-2 will take

anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes to dry. Depending on how heavy you

applied it. I have applied Z-2 in the Arizona sun and it dried in

approx. 3 to 5 minutes. I have also applied it in 38 degree temperature

and it took about 2 to 3 hours to dry. Be patient. It's worth it.

Different situations affect drying times. Also, remember you have Z-1

and Z-5 both on the car. That is two products that have to dry at one

time. Takes longer. Z-2 or Z-5 does not contain any oils and once it's

dry will never ever look smeary or feel greasy. If you remove Z-2 or Z-5

before it is thoroughly dry and get any smears. Just wipe down the car

with a damp cotton towel. This will remove any smears. Don't use Z-6

until you wipe the car down. If you'd like call me and I'll help you out

with more info!

7. After removal of Zaino Z-2 or Z-5. You should wait 24 hours if the

outside temperature is under 70 degrees and 6 hours if over 70 degrees,

before applying the next coat of Z-5 or Z-2.

8. Use Z-6 "Gloss Enhancer" spray as per directions, between each and

every coat of Z-5 or Z-2. It really helps give a three dimensional look.

It's antistatic properties will reduce dust and dirt pickup by 60%. Z-6

can be used immediately after removing Z-2 or Z-5 or right before

applying the next coat of Z-2 or Z-5. Most of my customers prefer to use

Z-6 both, before and after Z-2 or Z-5 for that extra gloss boost.

9. You can switch to Z-2 as soon as you are happy with the way the paint

finish looks. Example, no more swirls, scratches etc. It's up to you.

Z-2 has higher optical properties than Z-5. You can go from Z-2 to Z-5

and then back to Z-2 as often as you want. Z-2 and Z-5 are 100%

compatible and interchangeable. You should always end with Z-2 as the

last coat because of its higher optics.

10. The number of coats of Z-2 or Z-5 is up to you. When you reach the

level of enhancement you like, normal maintenence with Z-7 Car Wash and

Z-6 "Gloss Enhancer" spray is all that's necessary. Naturally apply a

coat of Z-2 or Z-5 whenever you feel it is required.

NOTE: One application of Zaino Z-2 or Z-5 will outlast anything in the

industry and is all you'll ever need for an average vehicle. However,

Multiple coats will achieve an even deeper, wetter-looking, ultra high

gloss. Plus higher paint protection. It's up to you....You be the

judge...

ALWAYS use only 100% Cotton towels. They must be Made in USA. Brand name

(Cannon or Fieldcrest) large white bath size towels. See my web site,

for the real truth on cotton towels and which ones to use.

 

ZFX™ Instructions

When used as directed, Zaino Bros' ZFX™ Show Car Polish accelerator

enables Zaino Show Car Polish to cure instantly and increases

durability. This exclusive product allows you to create a “Show Car

Finish” in a day and gives your car months of lasting protection.

This kit contains a 2ml vial of ZFX™ Show Car Polish accelerator mix and

four mixing bottles. The vial contains enough ZFX™ to prepare 16 ounces

of polish.

Pour one to two ounces of Show Car Polish (Z-2, Z-3 or Z-5) into a 2

ounce ZFX mixing bottle. For each ounce of polish, add 4 to 5 drops of

ZFX™ (no more than 10 drops for two full ounces), screw the cap back on,

and shake vigorously for 60 to 90 seconds.

ZFX™ enabled polish must be applied to a clean car. Follow these easy

steps:

1. Apply Zaino Show Car Polish enabled with ZFX™ with a 100% terry cloth

applicator. Use the polish sparingly. A small amount goes a long way,

and you will be applying multiple coats.

2. Squirt a dime size dab of polish on your applicator and rub it into

your paint using back and forth hand motions.

3. Allow the polish the haze (dry) for 30 minutes.

4. Buff off the Show Car Polish residue with a high quality, 100% cotton

detailing towel.

 

You're now ready to apply your next coat of Zaino Show Car Polish

enabled with ZFX™. There's no need to wait. Simply follow steps 1

through 4 again. Use a fresh buffing towel with each coat. Apply no

more than three coats of Zaino Show Car Polish enabled with ZFX™ in a 24

hour period. fro optimum results use enable ZFX withing 6 hours of

mixing

When you are finished polishing, wash mixing bottle inside and out with

a heavy concentration of liquid dishwashing detergen and rinse

thoroughlyt. The ZFX™ mixing bottles cannot be reused if the polish

remains in the bottle for more than 12 hours. After 12 hours, it is not

possible to remove the ZFX™ accelerator from the mixing bottles. Throw

the mixing bottle and any unused polish contents away after 12 hours.

Call me and I'll give you some more tips on your specific situation.

 

 

 

 

 

Thank You,

Sal Zaino

http://www.zainobros.com

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What type and brand of wax and sealers are you applying to your new Shelby? and....How are you applying them?

 

 

There are a billion answers including clay bars and Zaino, as you can see. Here are a couple of quickie tips from my brother-in-law, who paints exotic cars for a living:

 

1. As stated above, the "breathe and cure" stuff went out years ago. You have a factory baked on finish that you can wax to your heart's content on day one.

 

2. Since these cars are shot in a dust- and contaminant-free environment, the need to remove imperfections from the clearcoat is basically nil. With very few exceptions he says you should never intentionally strip away the visual depth of the clearcoat just to try to replace it by polishing then waxing. If there are contaminants in the clearcoat, there will also be some in the paint, so inspect it carefully.

 

3. There isn't jack that you can do about "orange peel", etc. It's in the paint, not the clearcoat and you're not going to get to it shy of repainting that portion of the car.

 

4. Pure carnuba wax is great for your dining room table because it is organic. Your car isn't. Carnuba discolors to some degree and while it will protect and give depth it is distorting the color of the car...along with any metallic effect in the paint.

 

5. Liquid polish/waxes are equally as effective as paste. This comes down to the fact that they are chemically the same, sans the agents that make one a liquid and the other a paste. That said, it's all in the application. Liquids are applied more uniformly by 99% of people. It's easier. The pressure applied doesn't vary nearly as much as it does with paste. Take it easy on yourself and get a better, more even shine.

 

6. Most polish/wax products work as well on new, or really good paint, as using separate products. He said the desire to do this harkens back to the "good old days" when the audiophiles bought components rather than receivers. "More is better" is not the case.

 

7. Finally, when I asked him for a name brand recommendation, he said there were a few but the best way to pick one was go to www.consumerreports.org and pick the "less than $10 one". He said their testing was "real world".

 

Again, this guy does Lambos, Maybachs, etc., many of them show cars. He's a geek about this stuff, but (IMHO) he cuts through the BS and gives some simple, every day advice. Oh, yeah, he also said not to use car covers unless you have absolutely NO other way (read: garage) to protect it from the elements.

 

 

:shift:

 

bj

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Why is this? In the winter, I was planning on keeping it in the garage and under a car cover. The rest of the year, just in the garage...

 

 

I was wondering the same. I know you shouldn't use a cover if your car is not totally clean, but why should you never use a cover.

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:hysterical:

 

Polish on - polish off!

 

All we're really doing is polishing the clear coat. We're not "waxing" any paint like we used to.

 

And - Maybachs or no Maybachs - there's no harm in clay barring the clearcoat. I've seen the results and it does remove a lot of crap off the clear coat.

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Why is this? In the winter, I was planning on keeping it in the garage and under a car cover. The rest of the year, just in the garage...

 

 

Because most of them breathe properly and the hot/cold changes allow some level of condensation to not only do damage to the clearcoat (slowly, but it does happen) but it speeds up the damage to all the rubber seals associated with the body. He said IF you could find a way to have a LOOSE fitting cover and allow plenty of air to pass through, that would work. They have an older Countach that they're storing for a guy in one of those air bubble deals. He said it looks like it works great, but again it's a humidity...or in this case, the lack of...issue. They have a wx station in there that shows temp/barom/hum. It's significantly dryer in there than outside the bubble due to the constantly moving air. You know what that would do to your favorite cigar!!??

 

Re: the other post on the Maybach. It's the $11 one on the CR guide.

 

 

:shift:

 

bj

 

:hysterical:

 

Polish on - polish off!

 

All we're really doing is polishing the clear coat. We're not "waxing" any paint like we used to.

 

And - Maybachs or no Maybachs - there's no harm in clay barring the clearcoat. I've seen the results and it does remove a lot of crap off the clear coat.

 

 

Okee dokee Ruf San, here you go. Black Magic Wet Shine (available at Target, for example, for $7.00)

On the Maybachs, 3M's Perfect-It Show Car Liquid $11.00 at auto parts stores.

 

:shift:

 

bj

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VNMOUS 1 is correct about todays paint. I have some 10 year jobs out there that still look as good as the day they left the shop. Credit todays chemical make up of paint plus catylists and damn good prep work ( no cheap materiales either ) Car covers collect dirt, expand and shrink and in some environments hold in extreme heat rather than reflecting UV rays. They also get pulled over the surface of the car during installation and removal scratching them. Cant beat a climate contrilled garage.

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I had a '98 F-150 for almost 3 years. Never polished or waxed it. Water beaded up on it the last day I had it just like the first day I took delivery. Part of me thinks that "we" need to polish/wax our rides no matter what! Although - my buddy's dark blue car does look "deep" with a half-dozen coats of Zaino!

 

I'm old enough to remember polishing compound! :happy feet:

 

I think my biceps were 2" larger then. :hysterical:

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:hysterical:

 

Polish on - polish off!

 

All we're really doing is polishing the clear coat. We're not "waxing" any paint like we used to.

 

And - Maybachs or no Maybachs - there's no harm in clay barring the clearcoat. I've seen the results and it does remove a lot of crap off the clear coat.

 

+1 on the clay bar.

 

And RUF, quit making fun of Polish people. :yup:

 

Dave

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