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How to boost naturally aspirated 4.6's?


SWEDESHELBY1

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Think you are going to need aftermarket heads, camshafts, tuner.

 

Just doing a word search came up with this:

 

"August Issue of MM & FF "Three Valve Velocity"

Dyno Graph 351 hp / 336 tq

BBR 3V Heads-stock valvetrain), BBR Stage 1 Camshafts, JLT CAI, Stock exhaust manifolds, BBR offroad X-pipe, & SCT Xcal 2 Tuner"

http://www.blowbyracing.com/bbr-3v-cams.html

 

Since a stock Mustang GT is at ~270rwhp, they gained ~80rwhp.

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Here's the FRPP heads. Ad says

 

"Up to 60 HP increase over stock production heads"

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/05gtkbp.htm

 

 

Thanks AF. I really would like my SGT to remain naturally aspirated BUT the easiest way possible is too do the SC! There is NO real easy way to gain a lot of HP without tearing the engine a part and then putting it back together. By the time your done, including labor, you'll be in the car about the same as a bolt-on SC, a Paxon and a little more for a Black Whipple. It really does not make sense to do it any other way, yet. Very disappointing by true-

 

Thanks again.

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I want more HP on my SGT, as you all are aware of. However if I can get approx. 385++ HP at the crank I "possibly" would leave my car naturally aspirated. Are any of you aware of any thing new or existing in the modification department that would accomplish this?

 

Thanks-

 

Swede =Nitrious less than 1k installed much hp sriously think about it it works.

 

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I want more HP on my SGT, as you all are aware of. However if I can get approx. 385++ HP at the crank I "possibly" would leave my car naturally aspirated. Are any of you aware of any thing new or existing in the modification department that would accomplish this?

 

Thanks-

 

 

Swedeshelby

 

Your goal of 385hp should be somewhat easily obtainable. My 2004 Mercury Marauder came stock with 302hp from its 4.6 engine. Granted it has 8 more valves than your mod motor but these 32v motors do sell used for a pretty resonable price so maybe a conversion could be in order for you.

 

I know the Marauders can reach 385hp with somewhat minor mods like a ecm recalibration, modified intake/throttle body/fuel system and exhaust.

 

I'm not an expert in the modular motors so I'm not sure if you can just bolt the 4v heads onto your 3v motor or if you would have to swap the entire longblock.

 

Besides the 2003-04 Marauders you can also find the 4v 4.6 in the 2001 Bullit Mustang and the Lincoln Aviator SUV.

 

Steve

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I know many of y'all don't like to hear what I have to say about building power, but all I'm asking this time, is for y'all to keep an open mind about advertising. Truth seems to be somewhat elusive in the automotive world.

 

Forget about building HP. Build torque, it's what moves the car.

 

The FRP 3V high performance heads are in the 2007 catalogue, page 24. P/N M-6049-463P for the right bank, #M-6050-463-P for the left bank. The caption reads "intake flow increased approximately 20%" and "exhaust flow increased approximately 30%", and there is a short list of what this kit does not include, so, either you use your stock components, or, go shopping.

 

How this power increase translates to brake or rear wheel HP is not stated. BTW, the FRP caption is posted word for word at the RPM outlet link provided above. I suppose this isn't wrong, but surely they did not write their own words. Moreover, on page 50 of this FRP catalogue, the 4V version of this upgrade states "approximately 60 HP increase" when used with additional FRP parts, i.e. valves, springs, camshafts, intake, headers and exhaust mods.

 

You're talking around 2600 bucks a set with tax and shipping for just the heads. Install labor is another factor. If you're not a wrench, there is professional shop time to consider, and I'll guess it will run around 500 bucks each bank. Include the misc unmentioned and this head upgrade alone is somewhere in the 4K region. Don't forget the other areas to consider. Processing more air means you will have to upgrade the intake and exhaust systems, or its all for nothing. Larger MAF, improved CAI, headers, high-flow cats, professional dyno tune and tuner, and so on...And how much have you spent now?

 

OTOH...Even the most conservative of blower kits (Paxton @ 8 PSI) will deliver 420 RWHP/390 RWTQ without all that other stuff. A tad more expensive, yes, but completely bolt on. Thus, when it's time to sell your car, it comes off. Restoring the car to bone stock improves market prices, and you can resell or reuse your kit and recover some of your blower investment. Once you build an engine, it stays built and your investment goes with it. BTW, it's been my experience that selling a car with a custom built engine is a lot harder than selling the bone stock version. Keep this in mind?

 

IMHO, go with the blower kit of your choice, keep it under 9 PSI, and you'll have a lot more fun spending your money on tires.

 

Hope this helps, carry on gents.

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I know many of y'all don't like to hear what I have to say about building power, but all I'm asking this time, is for y'all to keep an open mind about advertising. Truth seems to be somewhat elusive in the automotive world.

 

Forget about building HP. Build torque, it's what moves the car.

 

The FRP 3V high performance heads are in the 2007 catalogue, page 24. P/N M-6049-463P for the right bank, #M-6050-463-P for the left bank. The caption reads "intake flow increased approximately 20%" and "exhaust flow increased approximately 30%", and there is a short list of what this kit does not include, so, either you use your stock components, or, go shopping.

 

How this power increase translates to brake or rear wheel HP is not stated. BTW, the FRP caption is posted word for word at the RPM outlet link provided above. I suppose this isn't wrong, but surely they did not write their own words. Moreover, on page 50 of this FRP catalogue, the 4V version of this upgrade states "approximately 60 HP increase" when used with additional FRP parts, i.e. valves, springs, camshafts, intake, headers and exhaust mods.

 

You're talking around 2600 bucks a set with tax and shipping for just the heads. Install labor is another factor. If you're not a wrench, there is professional shop time to consider, and I'll guess it will run around 500 bucks each bank. Include the misc unmentioned and this head upgrade alone is somewhere in the 4K region. Don't forget the other areas to consider. Processing more air means you will have to upgrade the intake and exhaust systems, or its all for nothing. Larger MAF, improved CAI, headers, high-flow cats, professional dyno tune and tuner, and so on...And how much have you spent now?

 

OTOH...Even the most conservative of blower kits (Paxton @ 8 PSI) will deliver 420 RWHP/390 RWTQ without all that other stuff. A tad more expensive, yes, but completely bolt on. Thus, when it's time to sell your car, it comes off. Restoring the car to bone stock improves market prices, and you can resell or reuse your kit and recover some of your blower investment. Once you build an engine, it stays built and your investment goes with it. BTW, it's been my experience that selling a car with a custom built engine is a lot harder than selling the bone stock version. Keep this in mind?

 

IMHO, go with the blower kit of your choice, keep it under 9 PSI, and you'll have a lot more fun spending your money on tires.

 

Hope this helps, carry on gents.

 

 

 

LuLu- I suspected that. It does seem that no matter where I looked and researched the cost, long run and short term, it did not meet my parameters. The built engine, not bolt-on stuff, will be looked upon unfavorably if I ever decided to sell. The bolt-on SC is the better deal because, as you said, it can be taken off and put back to stock immediately plus it gives me what I want, more torque and HP. So I am going with the SC, almost forsure, but I want to thank all of you for your time and in put.

 

Merry Christmas!

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So I am going with the SC, almost forsure, but I want to thank all of you for your time and in put.

 

Merry Christmas!

 

 

 

SS

 

Since your OP said that you wanted to stay NA I intentionally left out anything about SuperChargers. Since a SC is now an option for you yes this is the only way to go and is how the Marauder guys make the impressive numbers considering our extreme weight disadvantage.

 

Not only can the SC be removed down the road it can also be easily sold. One of the shops you should consider discussing your plans with is Alternative Auto Performance in Michigan. Lidio knows his stuff.

 

And as LuLu mentioned torque moves your car, hp helps sells the car.

 

Steve

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So I guess I will be living through your experience with the SC instead of the other way around. Do you have an appointment date for the mod shop yet?

 

 

Bud contacted me yesterday by email and sent the cost list along with it. I replied and have yet to hear back from him on the actual details, times frame for drop off, "approximate" time frame for completion of mods etc.... I know he is swamped with all the new stuff but hopefully we'll be able to communicate soon.

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  • 3 weeks later...

thumbs up to lidio in michigan . he has done alot of tuning to my cars over the years and i have nothing but good things from his shop. i contacted him on my supercharger addition to my shelby and he is in love with the root style superchargers with the mod motor cars due to the low end torque it adds and that is what these cars need. he is also an vortech dealer(which owns paxton) . i choose to install mine myself and decided to go with a polisheed vortech with a polished intercooler . with the intercooler it makes 10.5 psi. of boost and makes 490 hp at the tires. i decided that the supercharger was my choice cause i have several cars with them and love the power and ease of time to install them since i like to do most of my work myself.

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