Oil change before Winter,.....

[mywickedshelby]

Called a dealer (recommended by local Mustang club members) and made an appointment to get the oil changed, make sure everything is properly greased, get the hood scoop documented, check the left side exhaust that was already fixed, etc, before putting her to sleep for Winter.......

 

and the young lady told me they had a meeting of all service techs and it was announced that only 100% synthetic oil will be used on Shelby's from that point forward. I told her I didnt have a GT500, but she was undeterred.

Now I had planned to use the synthetic blend again now at 5000 miles (1st oil change was at 2000 miles, used 5/20 synthetic blend) and was planning on switching to full synthetic next summer......

 

I read that the switch to full synthetic should wait until 7500 miles or so? Should I be concerned about changing to full synthetic now?

anybody hear about this or encounter this in their travels?

[Webba]

Michael, when I had my oil changed this summer my tech told me it was a synthetic blend stock from Ford. He said that would work fine. I told him I wanted to go to full Synthetic and asked if I should wait. he said no reason to and I switched right then. I dont know if she knows what she is talking about in regards to all of it having to be synthetic from here on out. I have not seen any news on any of the sites I go to about it so I am thinking she thinks you have a GT500 and she doesnt know better. But if you are already going to switch I say go for it now!

[mywickedshelby]

Thanks alot Terry.

I feel much better now knowing I am not doing it too soon.

I will go for it.

[stump_breaker]

Oil is such a touchy subject these days. I know of plenty of 200k mile cars that have never had anything but regular old dino oil.

My Honda has 172,000+ miles with no leaks or engine problems and has never had anything but conventional oil every 3000-5000 miles. My Hyundai has 80,000+ miles and it's the same thing.

The only reason I would switch to full synthetic is for extended storage periods like 6 months to a year and this is because synth oils don't have the hydrocarbons that can break down and degrade like conventional oils. Other than that I would and will stick with the 5w-20 synth blend recommended by FORD if not for anything but factory warranty purposes.

 

I find it strange that my 03 Avalanche used regular dino oil and I was told by Chevrolet to go by the computer for oil change due dates. My Avalanche would go 7500 miles before getting a "change oil" notification. I never went past 5000 but still the computer was the recommended diagnostician.

Some people say there are sludge problems and others are doing fine even with high mileage. It seems there is never a correct answer but plenty of incorrect ones.

 

I have a guitar picking friend whose Toyota truck had over 300k miles on conventional Castrol oil with an every 3000 mile change. A car backed out in front of his son and totaled the truck. The 22R engine still cranked up and ran without a hitch.

 

IMO synth oils are overkill and a wallet drain.

As as when to change to a full synth oil, from what I understand it does not matter. there might be issues on higher mileage cars as full synth might cause an oil leak but not on low mileage cars. Back when full synth's hit the market a flush was recommended but not anymore.

 

Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com . All those guys do all day is talk about oil.....

 

EDIT 1.0 - either the page is down or off the air.

[mywickedshelby]

thanks Stump.

[07shelbygt109]

I changed to full synthetic at the first oil change and have had no problems. I have done this with every car I have owned for the last 15 years or so and have had no issues whatsoever.

I think the gradual change deal should only be done when converting a high mileage vehicle to synthetic oil.

[mywickedshelby]

thanks 109....I knew I could count on you guys!

[fatboy_merged]

what if my car is a daily driver? do i need 100% synth oil?

[07shelbygt109]

what if my car is a daily driver? do i need 100% synth oil?

I don't know if you necessarily need synthetic oil or not but I would definitely want it whether mine was a daily driver or just a weekend warrior.

The debate over dino oil and synthetic oil will go on as long as there are people that believe in each of them. I personally fall in on the synthetic side and have those fluids in everything I own, but thats just me.

[ColoradoShelbyGT]

I asked Bud this question a couple of weeks ago, and he said if I was going full synthetic to change over at the first oil change at 2,000 miles after the car is broken in.

[fatboy_merged]

mine has 1500 miles and i got an appointment for first time service tomorrow... i guess i can go for the full synth now?

[Jer]

I changed over to Mobil 1 with the FRPP filter at 4750 miles.

Just figured I'd chime in...

[mywickedshelby]

.........chime away.

Thanks Jer!

[Kelsey]

I just changed to full synthetic valvoline at 2K miles for the first oil change. My dad has used that stuff for years in our cars and his work trucks when we had the farm and have never had a single problem with any of em. I think the only car we didn't use it in was the SRT and that was mobil 1 synthetic.

[srf73]

Switched 1638 over to Mobil1 5W30 synthetic at about the 1500 mile mark. I put 310,000 miles on an 85 Honda Civic, running synthetic from about 1000 miles on, and the valve cover was like new inside, no crap build up at all. I had the valve cover off religiously every 30K miles to adjust valves so I was paying attention. I'm a firm believer in synthetic, it gives you that extra margin of protection, longevity, thermal, and lubrication protection. And yes I still change my synthetic out at recommended oil change intervals. Synthetic still gets dirty. Unless you go the route of bypass filters like heavy trucks to get extended life out of the oil, change it at the recommended intervals. It's cheap insurance.

 

Todd

csm1638

[LuLu]

IMHO...

 

The SGT has a stock 4.6L-3V engine, same engine used in hundreds of FMC applications. It's nothing special, and requires no special treatrment/fluids, ect. If y'all are emotionally conforted by spending the extra bucks for a full synthetic engine oil and a filter with the word "racing" branded on it, there's nothing wrong with that. Emotional assurance from proper maintenence is most important.

 

But, if you're inclined to follow this path because you don't want to have to change your oil for 7500 miles, or, because of the thousands and thousands of "expert" testimonies available at the click of a mouse, wake up. There's more BS out there than truth, no need to join this club just to be "one of the guys".

 

The best engine oil for our SGTs is clean oil, period. Factory bulk Motorcraft multiblend synthetic 5W20 every 2500 miles, and it will come out so clean you could reuse it in your daily driver. If you don't like the lack of status using bulk Motorcraft from a dealership, run down to your LAPS and buy a case of Quaker State 5W20 multiblend synthetic @ 1.99 a quart. Watch the sales papers too, it sometimes comes down to 1.59 per quart for a weekend sale.

 

Ditto with the "recommendation" for using the Ford Racing filter. I have cut them open new and used and guess what...It's nothing special that isn't available OTC for half the price as the Motorcraft FL-820-S (but stay away from Fram, k? total crap). No need to pay 19.80 per filter from FRP because it says Ford Racing on it, when the exact same quality Motorcraft filter is 4.08 at the parts counter. Again, frequency of drain is the key to proper maintenence and Motorcraft has the best for less. Besides, FRP doesn't produce their own filters, they are relabeled filters from Motorcraft anyway.

 

Don't know if many of y'all understand this, but on modular engines, the lubrication system is a component of the cooling system. The 5W20 requirement is important here, to get cool oil into the block and keep it there long enough to absorb heat, and get it out and back to a cooler ASAP. Mess with your oil weight (as it is often advised by the oil fanatics on the web) will have a direct effect on engine operating temps.

 

I know this because back in 2005 I conducted my own controlled study of engine oil weight vs. engine temp with every retail oil available from a LAPS. I tested everything from 0W30 full symthetic, to 10W40 full dino. The QS 5W20 multiblend synthetic is hands-down the best in controlling engine temps in both stop-and-go traffic, as well as long distance high speed cruising i.e., over 100 MPH for over 15 minutes. Those of you concerned about engine temps (and you should be concerned if you are adding a blower, or, just "adjusting" your factory FRP performance tune), add an external oil cooler.

 

I recommend the FRP (B&M made) kit, #M-6642-S101. this is a compact 11"X 8"X1.5" "stacked plate" design with a cooling rate of 20,500+ BTUs per hour. The kit comes complete and is relatively easy to install by any shadetree wrench. Page 100 in the 2007 catalogue, MSRP 115.00, and it will be the best 115 bucks you could spend towards engine longevity.

 

Just my .02C, happy motoring, gents.

[shelbydream1]

Called a dealer (recommended by local Mustang club members) and made an appointment to get the oil changed, make sure everything is properly greased, get the hood scoop documented, check the left side exhaust that was already fixed, etc, before putting her to sleep for Winter.......

 

and the young lady told me they had a meeting of all service techs and it was announced that only 100% synthetic oil will be used on Shelby's from that point forward. I told her I didnt have a GT500, but she was undeterred.

Now I had planned to use the synthetic blend again now at 5000 miles (1st oil change was at 2000 miles, used 5/20 synthetic blend) and was planning on switching to full synthetic next summer......

 

I read that the switch to full synthetic should wait until 7500 miles or so? Should I be concerned about changing to full synthetic now?

anybody hear about this or encounter this in their travels?

 

 

 

Wicked-I emailed Bud at SAI to check what Shelby's recommendation on switching is some time ago because there seems to be an infinite school of thought on when it's ok to switch. I know I printed the e-mail and saved it, but can't find it, so I'm paraphrasing he told me the technicians at Shelby said it is fine to switch to full synthetic anytime after the first oil change.

[mywickedshelby]

thanks dream.

Now the next question, should I insist on Mobil 1?

Do I need to make sure exactly what brand synthetic is used so I make sure to ONLY use the same brand from here on out or can I use any synthetic once the change over is made and dont worry about it?

[07shelbygt109]

thanks dream.

Now the next question, should I insist on Mobil 1?

Do I need to make sure exactly what brand synthetic is used so I make sure to ONLY use the same brand from here on out or can I use any synthetic once the change over is made and dont worry about it?

 

As long as you stay with the same weight you can use any brand you choose. Personally I would use either Mobil 1 or Amsoil. I have used both and have had excellent results. My 94 Cobra has been on Mobil 1 since 1997 and the Shelby was put on Amsoil at the first change.

[mywickedshelby]

thanks again 109.

[Reino]

the Shelby was put on Amsoil at the first change.

 

 

I went with Amsoil and the Amsoil filter the first change @ 2000. I had my mind made up before I took her in and not that I cared, but the dealer said it was a good choice of oil and the wrench said if he could recommend it he would. Im guessing Ford wont allow him to recommend anything but Ford products.

[torquewrench1807]

IMHO...

 

The SGT has a stock 4.6L-3V engine, same engine used in hundreds of FMC applications. It's nothing special, and requires no special treatrment/fluids, ect. If y'all are emotionally conforted by spending the extra bucks for a full synthetic engine oil and a filter with the word "racing" branded on it, there's nothing wrong with that. Emotional assurance from proper maintenence is most important.

 

But, if you're inclined to follow this path because you don't want to have to change your oil for 7500 miles, or, because of the thousands and thousands of "expert" testimonies available at the click of a mouse, wake up. There's more BS out there than truth, no need to join this club just to be "one of the guys".

 

The best engine oil for our SGTs is clean oil, period. Factory bulk Motorcraft multiblend synthetic 5W20 every 2500 miles, and it will come out so clean you could reuse it in your daily driver. If you don't like the lack of status using bulk Motorcraft from a dealership, run down to your LAPS and buy a case of Quaker State 5W20 multiblend synthetic @ 1.99 a quart. Watch the sales papers too, it sometimes comes down to 1.59 per quart for a weekend sale.

 

Ditto with the "recommendation" for using the Ford Racing filter. I have cut them open new and used and guess what...It's nothing special that isn't available OTC for half the price as the Motorcraft FL-820-S (but stay away from Fram, k? total crap). No need to pay 19.80 per filter from FRP because it says Ford Racing on it, when the exact same quality Motorcraft filter is 4.08 at the parts counter. Again, frequency of drain is the key to proper maintenence and Motorcraft has the best for less. Besides, FRP doesn't produce their own filters, they are relabeled filters from Motorcraft anyway.

 

Don't know if many of y'all understand this, but on modular engines, the lubrication system is a component of the cooling system. The 5W20 requirement is important here, to get cool oil into the block and keep it there long enough to absorb heat, and get it out and back to a cooler ASAP. Mess with your oil weight (as it is often advised by the oil fanatics on the web) will have a direct effect on engine operating temps.

 

I know this because back in 2005 I conducted my own controlled study of engine oil weight vs. engine temp with every retail oil available from a LAPS. I tested everything from 0W30 full symthetic, to 10W40 full dino. The QS 5W20 multiblend synthetic is hands-down the best in controlling engine temps in both stop-and-go traffic, as well as long distance high speed cruising i.e., over 100 MPH for over 15 minutes. Those of you concerned about engine temps (and you should be concerned if you are adding a blower, or, just "adjusting" your factory FRP performance tune), add an external oil cooler.

 

I recommend the FRP (B&M made) kit, #M-6642-S101. this is a compact 11"X 8"X1.5" "stacked plate" design with a cooling rate of 20,500+ BTUs per hour. The kit comes complete and is relatively easy to install by any shadetree wrench. Page 100 in the 2007 catalogue, MSRP 115.00, and it will be the best 115 bucks you could spend towards engine longevity.

 

Just my .02C, happy motoring, gents.

 

Do you recommend 5W20 even though the under hood Shelby sticker recommends 5W30?

[07SHELBY GT]

That was my question also!My view on the extended oil change intervals runs along the same lines,A filter can only hold so much crap,Luckily the factory Motorcraft filter is large,My 06 Impala SS has one of those oil change interval monitors,I change at 3k without fail and have seen the oil life as high as 60+%.Only thing is the filter is the size of a tennis ball!So my viewpoint is if you don't beat it to hard go with Motorcraft Semisynthetic as it is $10.00 for 5 Qts at Wally World VS $20+ for 5 Qts of any Synthetic.For me as I like to run em hard it's full synthetic all the way!

[69dejavue]

I am using the Amsoil 0W-30 and the Amsoil filter. Bud recommended using the 30 weight as opposed to the 20 Weight oil. In addition the underhood sticker indicates 30 weight oil. The tests I have read show Amsoil far superior to Mobil One in wear protection. I realize this is a contentious issue with many with conventional v synthetic. I figure if you want the best, and want to keep it forever, you can't go wrong with synthetic. I changed at approx 1, 000 miles. Drove 1100 miles to TX and it was still perfectly clear! Arrived in AZ after a total of 2300 miles and still perfectly clear. No residue when wiped on a white towel! Nothing. This included cruising at 75+ MPH and a burst to 140 in West Texas.

 

The debate will go on re conventional v synthetic. However, I don't think anyone will be able to show that synthetic is in any way less than conventional. Yes it is more expensive but many of us will only change the oil once per year due to limited mileage. Amsoil states the 0W-30 is good for 25 K. Yes I pay more but it is my personal opinion it iw worth it. I plan on keeping mine forever! We drive our cars harder and synthetic, to me, gives that little bit of extra insurance and peace of mind.

[mywickedshelby]

thanks 07

[LuLu]

I don't wish to "open a can of worms" over engine oil. That debate can go on forever, and friendships can come to be challegnged from debating it.

 

However, I have done my homework first hand, with a 4V 4.6L modular engine making over 525 RWHP/500 RWTQ in a 4500 pound car. My final conclusion has been stated. 5W20 multiblend-synthetic, Quaker State OTC, or, bulk Motorcraft 5W20 from the dealership is the answer for our SGTs...If you wish.

 

Financially speaking, why waste money? Just keep it clean, and you'll have no worries.

 

5W30 will cause the engine to run hot by almost 10 degrees, and the EEC will adjust to lean things out. This will produce more "seat-of-the-pants" power, yes. But, it will likewise lead to higher (sooner) wear and tear on the piston skirts and other things that go up and down really fast. Just wait until some of y'all start puffing out a little blue smoke at start-up, then you will understand. You'll wonder and complain about <bleep> valve seals, but it's really worn rings and loose pistons due to lack of lubrication.

 

If I am wrong, then page 229 of our owner's manual needs to be removed, or, corrected. When I imagine how many platforms use the 4.6L-3V, I can't help imagining how many manuals are wrong.

 

If Bud (or, any of you) wish to know more about my research, I'm at 312.401.1396.

 

Best wishes, be safe.

 

-30-

[69dejavue]

Time to throw some friendly gas on this fire. Remember it is friendly.

 

First, SAI changed the recommendation from 20 Weight to 30 Weight because they felt Shelby drivers were more likely to drive the vehicle harder. SAI felt so strongly about this they placed a label under the hood.

 

The primary reason for Ford switching from 20 to 30 weight is to gain better mileage for CAFE standards. The thinner oil offers less resistance. It does not necessarily lubricate better.

 

The vast majority of wear occurs at start up when the oil is in the crank. Synthetic oil flows much quicker than conventional oil and the moving parts have less time without lubrication.

 

Now for the GAS, but remember it should be kept as friendly gas. I think we can resolve the conventional v synthetic debate once and for all if everyone agrees with what I type below.

 

If conventional oil is as good as synthetic then the conventional oil user saves money. Agree?

 

If conventional is not as good as synthetic then the engine has less protection. Agree?

 

If synthetic oil is only as good as conventional oill then the synthetic user wastes about 20.00 per year when changing their oil. Possibly less depending on the number of times changed per year. Agree?

 

If synthetic oil is superior then the engine is cleaner, better protected, and gets better mileage due to less friction. Agree?

 

I don't think anyone can disagree with any of the above as they are phrased with "If".

 

Bottom line is if conventional oil is not any better we waste 20.00 per year. If synthetic oil is superior we gain long term benefits for 20.00 per year.

 

I have already made up my mind.

 

Thank you

 

07SGT

 

PS- Please keep it friendly. Lets not make it personal. Lets keep it factual, not emotional.

[stump_breaker]

 

Bottom line is if conventional oil is not any better we waste 20.00 per year. If synthetic oil is superior we gain long term benefits for 20.00 per year.

 

 

I'm not arguing oil but I think conventional oil vs synthetic has a lot larger gap than $20. Going to the local lube place has a $30 difference per change! ($34.95 for my Jeep using conventional vs. $69.95 for Mobil 1 in the Shelby if I used it - I still use Valvoline 5W-20.)

Maybe if you did it yourself the difference would be smaller. I prefer to supervise than to labor.... :D

[69dejavue]

I posted the pros and cons of synthetic v conventional oil. There has been no disagreement in nearly 3 days. Looks like the issue of syn v conventional oil is finally closed.

[DLGT-H398]

synthetic oil is good for extending drain intervals and high performance applications benifit from it most of the time.this is just another way to make more money off of the customer.these engines are NOT super high performance like the Z06 or the super charged variants of the mustang so synthetic blends and conventional oil will work just fine for regular service and use.now if you are constantly reving your car into the upper ranges you will either need to change your oil more often or go synthetic.