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Enclosed Car Trailer/Hauler


ShelbyGT/SC

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Okay guys, I was wondering if you could help me. I'd like to purchase an enclosed car trailer/hauler for my SGT.

 

I currently own a 2004 F150 SuperCrew Lariat with the 5.4 Triton - VIN 1FTPW14524KC56420. It has a regular 4-prong wiring hookup for my small 4x8 flatbed yard-trailer plus it has about a 1.5" round hookup that reads it's for electric brakes, turn, backup and running lights.

 

Inside the door area, it reads:

  • GVWR 7200#,
  • Front GAWR 3750#
  • Rear GAWR 3850#.

On the rear bumper, it reads:

 

Hitch Type .........Max Gross Trlr Wt ........Max Tongue Wt

Wt Distrib ...............9900# ..............................990#

Wt Carrying ............5000# ...............................500#

 

The part where the hitch ball is, also has a sticker which reads:

  • Max Gross Trailer Wt 5000#
  • Max Tongue Wt 500#

I am thinking about an 8.5' x 24' trailer. Naturally, I think I'd like to get the 10,000# but, based on what I've heard so far, I'm not sure if my truck can handle it (even though it reads 9900# above). I figure I won't likely ever have 10,000 lbs in it, but since the alternative is 7,000#, I'm afraid I could someday exceed that with the car and other stuff.

 

1) Please help me understand what is the maximum trailer (length and weight) I can purchase?

2) What else should I do to prepare the truck for the trailer?

3) I heard that I should get a weight distribution bar and a sway bar. I found one at this Energizer site. Do you recommend this or are there better? http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=51&parent=0

4) Anyone know where I can get mirror extenders?

 

Any other input and recommendations are welcome. If anyone sells any of the trailers or truck accessories, please let me know.

 

Thanks in advance for your help and input.

 

Adam

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Ok, lets see if I can give you a little help.

You say your truck is rated for a 9000 lb trailer. This is usually gooseneck weight as anything attached to the rear of the truck is based on the type of hitch you have installed. Norm is 500/5000. Now, 500/5000 will be exceeded if you are going to be hauling a car so you will need to upgrade to a heavy duty class 4 hitch if you choose not to go the gooseneck route. With this you will need a load distributtor which some people mistakenly call "sway bars". A standard 16' enclosed trailer will do you just fine for the car just be sure it has brakes. The 24' trailer will be way overkill unless you are planning on hauling more than just the car. Usually 8' wide is the maximum you can go on a trailer without special permits for an oversize load so just try to get what you need. You already have a seven pin in the rear so I'm assuming you have a brake booster already installed? If not, you need to get one. Don't depend on the truck to stop the trailer.

 

Personally, I would invest the money on a gooseneck hauler with a hide-a-hitch especially if you are traveling long distances. It will ride and drive a lot better plus they are usually a little more aerodynamic to help with fuel costs.

 

Look at JC whitney for the extenders but you should also be able to get then at any trailer/hitch shop. Check U-Haul.

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Ok, lets see if I can give you a little help.

You say your truck is rated for a 9000 lb trailer. This is usually gooseneck weight as anything attached to the rear of the truck is based on the type of hitch you have installed. Norm is 500/5000. Now, 500/5000 will be exceeded if you are going to be hauling a car so you will need to upgrade to a heavy duty class 4 hitch if you choose not to go the gooseneck route. With this you will need a load distributtor which some people mistakenly call "sway bars". A standard 16' enclosed trailer will do you just fine for the car just be sure it has brakes. The 24' trailer will be way overkill unless you are planning on hauling more than just the car. Usually 8' wide is the maximum you can go on a trailer without special permits for an oversize load so just try to get what you need. You already have a seven pin in the rear so I'm assuming you have a brake booster already installed? If not, you need to get one. Don't depend on the truck to stop the trailer.

 

Personally, I would invest the money on a gooseneck hauler with a hide-a-hitch especially if you are traveling long distances. It will ride and drive a lot better plus they are usually a little more aerodynamic to help with fuel costs.

 

Look at JC whitney for the extenders but you should also be able to get then at any trailer/hitch shop. Check U-Haul.

 

In california The maximum width is 8.5 inches

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Adam,

16' in length is too short in my opinion and I believe most trailer companies will be measuring a 16' box on the outside with the inside length being smaller than 16 feet. The car is 15' 8" long and that is way too tight. If your straps shift and the car moves even just a little bit you have no margin for error. I tow w/ a 22' x 8'6" trailer in New York w/ two 5200LB torsion axles w/ the GVW of 9990lbs. If you have a 5 speed car you might want to place a stop such as a two by four in the floor so you can't hit the front of the trailer when you are loading up especially since you are going to use a shorter trailer such as an 18' or 20' trailer. If you are thinking of adding inside lights, electric jack and a battery inside the trailer; do so before the trailer is done because it will cost twice as much to do later. You purchase a trailer w/ twin I beam construction w/ C channel or better cross beams 16" on center. Don't let a trailer company sell you 24" cross beams as that is not a car trailer but a landscape trailer.

An F-250 or better w/ a diesel would be better to tow with but you do have a nice powerplant in your peticular F-150. As one of the other guys in the forum stated ; make sure to get a weight distribution hitch w/ sway control. Good luck w/ the new car and safe towing. Rick

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Thanks Rick and the rest of you. This has been great input and advice.

 

I also looked at an 8.5 x 24 foot trailer and learned from the dealer this weekend too.

 

I am definitely leaning toward the dual 5,000# axle 8.5' x 24' trailer and will get the weight dist with sway. From what I'm learning, this sounds like I will be able to handle a 24' long trailer (which seems to have a curb weight of around 4000# +/-) plus the car (around 3500#) plus any tools and cabinets I wish to add. And, it seems like I can only do this because of the weight dist bar. I am afraid of the dual 3500# axles because I would already be overloading the trailer without adding any cabinets and tools.

 

Great advice on the electrical comments as well.

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Thanks Rick and the rest of you. This has been great input and advice.

 

I also looked at an 8.5 x 24 foot trailer and learned from the dealer this weekend too.

 

I am definitely leaning toward the dual 5,000# axle 8.5' x 24' trailer and will get the weight dist with sway. From what I'm learning, this sounds like I will be able to handle a 24' long trailer (which seems to have a curb weight of around 4000# +/-) plus the car (around 3500#) plus any tools and cabinets I wish to add. And, it seems like I can only do this because of the weight dist bar. I am afraid of the dual 3500# axles because I would already be overloading the trailer without adding any cabinets and tools.

 

Great advice on the electrical comments as well.

 

 

I'm pretty the car is in excess of 4400 lbs. It's on the sticker inside the drivers door....

This is the number I used to judge if the Shebly was a muscle car by definition. It was about 1 1/2 lb too much <_< (weight to HP ratio can't be more than 12 lbs to 1 HP)

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I'm pretty the car is in excess of 4400 lbs. It's on the sticker inside the drivers door....

This is the number I used to judge if the Shebly was a muscle car by definition. It was about 1 1/2 lb too much <_< (weight to HP ratio can't be more than 12 lbs to 1 HP)

 

Mustang GT weighes 3483lbs. Swapping some light weight body parts and suspension parts will not add 1000lbs (Even fully equipped I'd guess less than 200lbs). The door weight may include fully loaded plus 4 occupants.

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Mustang GT weighes 3483lbs. Swapping some light weight body parts and suspension parts will not add 1000lbs (Even fully equipped I'd guess less than 200lbs). The door weight may include fully loaded plus 4 occupants.

 

 

You are correct, it is the GVWR. The sticker also says max load passenger plus luggage = 720 lbs. So that puts the car at 3730 lbs. GVWR should account for a full tank of gas so you should be right around the 3500 lbs like you said.

 

So using (known) 3730 / 319 HP (per the book) puts the Shelby under 12 lbs per 1 HP defining it as a true muscle car. Glad this was brought up!

 

 

Post up some pics when you get your trailer aodwyer. I'd like to see it.

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