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Supercharger Clearance issue (PICS)


GPStang06_merged

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OK, as I mentioned in the other SC clearance post, I got a call from my bodyshop stating the CS6 hood does not fit on my GT with my Roushcharger and have to assume won't on other Roots/Twinscrew style blowers. I got a chance to see it first hand this weekend and took some pictures. I will be sending these to Ted as well but posted on here incase they get seen first. Here they are.

 

This picture shows where the bodyshop had to shim the hood struts as without them the hood actually sat lower then the fenders and layed against the plastic piece that runs across.

 

Shimmed.jpg

 

This picture shows the 2 spots that are making contact. I suspect that the air tube is also hitting as I now see in the picture a smudge that looks like it could be from the dust on the underside of the hood.

 

SCContact.jpg

 

Here are the areas under the hood the SC is making contact with.

 

ContactPointsHood.jpg

 

With the hood closed you can see that it is only a small amount of contact judging by the gap in this pic.

 

Gapcopy-1.jpg

 

And this is the proposed area the bodyshop recommends to cut out to allow for the clearance issue and for the movement of the engine when under heavy load.

 

Cut.jpg

 

 

OK, let me start off right away here that my Roushcharger fits fine under the stock hood with the inner foam the factory puts in there. Infact the charger doesn't even touch the factory inner lining. My friends Magnasun is the same, fits under the stock hood with no clearnce issues.

 

I am in no way ranting here but rather I am posting my thoughts, feelings, and ideas in hopes to get help and some idea of what my choices are.

 

Now I am no engineer however judging by the size of the hole to be cut I would gather it will most certainly affect the structural integrity of the hood, especially since aftermarket hoods (fiberglass) usually bounce around quite a bit at higher speeds (hence the reason for hood pins). Here are my issues:

 

1: I purchased this kit (appearance) because I fell in love with it well before (almost a year) I actually purchased my S197 Mustang. The deciding factor was the confirmation that I would not have any clearance issues with my Roushcharger (in email back in September and here on the forums) since the hood is the same inside as the stock hood.

 

2: Spoke with Jason at Hillbank about cutting the hole. Jason suggested to "box" the gap that will be there after cutting the inner layer to gain back the support that would be lost however the Bodyshop manager is against the idea as he feels there will be nowhere for the added heat to go and could damage the paint. I am in South Florida which is hot already and trust me as I am sure most of you know, my SC throughs off some serious heat. His thought by leaving the gap and not boxing it will give some of the heat room to evenly dispense. He will do either but he can't promise the paint won't be affected. And of course, cutting a hole, what is it going to do to the structure of the hood?

 

3: Any of the above options are going to cost "me" more money above what the job is going to cost. This is really bothering me that I will have to spend more money to "cut up" my new hood that I spent 700 and some odd dollars that I thought would fit nicely with no issues based on my research before buying.

 

Above all of this I am really unhappy at the fact any modification needs to be done even if I didn't have to spend and extra cent.

 

Is my hood just an odd one that didn't mold correctly?

 

Will the structure of the hood be fine after cutting it?

 

Do I need to get another hood from Shelby as this one may be defective?

 

I really don't want to but at this point my initial thought is to now return everything. I still don't have all of my order yet for various reasons and I certainly don't want to do this kit if I can't do it 100%.

 

Help me out, what can I do?

 

Thanks.

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OK, sent the pictures in to Ted K. and spoke with him directly this morning. After he showed the pics around it appears the general consensus at Shelby is my hood is bad, probably didn't cure correctly.

 

Ted is having a new hood shipped to my bodyshop and picking up my current one for review. :)

 

Lets hope it is the hood. I will update this post when the new one arrives and is fitted.

 

If you read this, thanks Ted.

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OK, sent the pictures in to Ted K. and spoke with him directly this morning. After he showed the pics around it appears the general consensus at Shelby is my hood is bad, probably didn't cure correctly.

 

Ted is having a new hood shipped to my bodyshop and picking up my current one for review. :)

 

Lets hope it is the hood. I will update this post when the new one arrives and is fitted.

 

If you read this, thanks Ted.

 

 

 

GPStang06, I read your post about the hood. I too had to have my Hood shimmed at the hinges like you because it hit the plastic at the firewall. With it shimmed and now clearing my issue is the hood is raised up next to the fenders. when I slide my hand across the hood and over the fender there is a step down from the hood to the fender. Maybe it is possible that my hood is defective also Just no supercharger under my hood YET just a teenie weenie v6 begging me for th paxton SC. I am going to have to do some research and get with my body guy to see if we cant get this lined up perfectly. I will post more on this later but I am following this post closely.

Jim

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GPStang. I have been talking to a few people about your issue with the hood and also looked at Jason C's car from hillbank. He cut his hood in the same spot. Look at the pics of his car with the hood open and you will see how he cut it. It actually looks good. I doubt there will be any issues with heat affecting the paint. Here in South FL the paint gets hotter just sitting in a parking lot in the hot Fl Sun. Crack an egg on it and I guarantee you in a few minutes it will be white and cooking on the hood. The paint will hold up fine. If you are really concerned about it get some Dyna-mat and place it in the cut out and make sure the matting is larger than the opening so you can tuck it under the rolled edge. You can go one step further and rattle can paint it black and put the stock head shield on the inside of the hood. If you don't want a heat Shield and want the painted look then do what Jason did. You will be fine. If it was my car that had that issue I would cut it in a heartbeat. Just do it and don't look back. I see that you are getting a new hood so when it arrives if it doesnt hit great but if it does then that is your only option. Don't give up. I know you are frustrated but you waited this long don't give up now. The reward is worth it. I am getting looks and thumbs up constantly. Going to buy milk and cigarettes is now a new experience. I am tempted to pour milk down the drain and say Honey We need milk again. I will be right back.... zooommmmm.

Think of this for a second. That spot in the hood is notched that way for a reason. It is to mark a cut out point for induction scoops. There are allot of mustang owners who cut completely through the whole hood. Here is a pic. Just do it man.

Jim

89L394std.jpg

 

Oh one more thing. Structural integrity? Are you going to be sitting on the hood? Oghhh never mind you are going to have some hottie pose for pictures sitting on the hood I get it now........

LOL

Jim Cocoa FL

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LOL Jim, even though you are on the West cost I hope we run into each other sometime at some show or whatever. At least we will have two corners of FL covered in regards to CS6/CS8's :)

 

 

 

WEST coast. No way man I am on the East coast. Cocoa FL. Near the Beachline/BeeLine. If your ever up this way let me know.

Jim

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Hmmm for some reason I thought you where over by Tampa. Sure will, you do the same if your ever down near Ft. Lauderdale.

 

 

I contracted Tampa Bay Shelby to do the work. Being that they are an authorized shelby dealer I stuck with a name I could trust. He does good work.

Jim

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  • 1 month later...

I contracted Tampa Bay Shelby to do the work. Being that they are an authorized shelby dealer I stuck with a name I could trust. He does good work.

Jim

 

 

OK, Pics of my car so far are under the progress thread however the 2nd hood Shelby sent me was also the same as the first. Rather then sending the 2nd hood back and trying a 3rd I bascially was about to toss in the towel on this project but i couldn't, it's the onl;y kit that I fell "in love" with for my stang so I went ahead and had the bodyshop go forward with the modifications for the charger. Whats you see is the large ijner area they cut out and filled it. This job turned out far better then I expected as the work they did look like part of the mold not to mention the hood is actually stronger in the middle then before.

 

The small unfinshed hole you see is something new. Once the charger cleared we found out the alternator doesn't clear in one spot (The Roushcharger kit relocates the alternator at the top of the motor, see pics in first post).

 

Here it is.

 

Hood1.jpg

 

CS8-2.jpg

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OK, Pics of my car so far are under the progress thread however the 2nd hood Shelby sent me was also the same as the first. Rather then sending the 2nd hood back and trying a 3rd I bascially was about to toss in the towel on this project but i couldn't, it's the onl;y kit that I fell "in love" with for my stang so I went ahead and had the bodyshop go forward with the modifications for the charger. Whats you see is the large ijner area they cut out and filled it. This job turned out far better then I expected as the work they did look like part of the mold not to mention the hood is actually stronger in the middle then before.

 

The small unfinshed hole you see is something new. Once the charger cleared we found out the alternator doesn't clear in one spot (The Roushcharger kit relocates the alternator at the top of the motor, see pics in first post).

 

Here it is.

 

Hood1.jpg

 

CS8-2.jpg

 

 

 

Guys, for the record, we only recommend the paxton SC with this hood. I have informed Jason, that the Roush SC doesnt work, and We have informed the staff as well. We will however be testing all our hoods with all the SC out there, but we build our hoods with our partners in mind. This Gt-H hood was designed for the hertz car and adjusted to fit the paxton.

 

 

Sorry for the confusion

 

 

Amy

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GPSTANG. I am so glad to see you went ahead and stuck it out. The hood cut out that your body shop did looks like some top quality work. Just for the Record. You mentioned that we should meet up sometime. Well I will be attending the Fun Ford Weekend at the Orlando Speedway this weekend March 3 and 4th SR 50. If you think you may want to attend take I-95 North to the Beachline/BeeLine west towards Orlando. Get off the first exit onto SR 520 West. Take that approximately 5 miles to SR 50 and take the west Merge to Orlando. As soon as you get on 50 look for the Orlando Speedworld Dragway on the Left. It is a very big event and hosted by Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords Magazine You can check the details at funfordevents.com Hope to see you there. If you do decide to go let me know here or in a PM and I will shoot you my cell number so we can coordinate a meeting spot and drive in to the event in Tandem and park next to each other. I'll bring the beer you bring the Hotties.

Jim

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Don't think I can make it but thanks for letting me know. Each day that goes by and I look at my car I am happier and happier I went ahead with it. Even though I still have parts on order my car is starting to look exactly like the look I was aiming for.

 

Amy, thanks for the clarification. I hope the information I sent you helps for future development. :)

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  • 4 months later...

This is the issues with my hood clearance and how I fixed them. This on a V6 with the Paxton.

 

I added a plenum cover and it was rubbing on the hood, so I cut out the same area as GP06stang. I just painted the inside rather than having it finished as nicely as he did. With the hood open it is dark under there and looks fine. The flash from the camera illuminated the rough fibreglass texture. The top of the hood at that spot is somewhat weaker (you can push it down with your hand, it pops back up) but the overall strength of the hood is still fine. Just don't let the blond model babe sit on the center of your hood when you are taking pictures.

 

The small square hole to the side and front of the large cutout was where the Paxton supercharger was actually rubbing on the hood. In addition the heat from the supercharger was melting the epoxy in the fibreglass and causing a black goo to drip down. So the hood is not a perfect fit for the Paxton supercharger either. The 3 half inch holes I drilled where more heat from the back of the supercharger to also causing melting (more black goo). There are also 3 more holes off to the side out of the picture which were above the MAF causing the same problem.

 

This in itself is not a cure as there is no place for the heat to go. So I converted the hood into a functional heat extraction hood by drilling out some of the fake holes in the fake rubber grill that sits on top of of the hood using a drill bit the same size as the fake holes. I didn't drill out all the holes as water fills up the indented areas on both sides and would spill into the holes and the hood. Instead I figured out the max water line with a straight edge and drilled the holes above that line giving myself some extra clearance. I held the drill sideways and kept my hand underneath it between the hood and drill so it wouldn't scratch the paint. No more rubbing and no more black goo.

 

 

100_0877-1.jpg

 

101_0980.jpg

 

101_0979.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Another option given by AMP Performance in Phoenix is to shave the urethane engine mounts or replace them with BBK which will lower the engine 1/2 an inch.

 

 

I had mine mounts replaced as well. It helped a lot by lowering the engine and keeping it from flexing when under load. You will feel an increased vibration through the car though because of the stiffer mounts.

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