Paleoc Posted June 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2007 Your not alone, in fact I think I am done with going further with this kit. My hood is still rubbing even after having it modified and the motor lowered with stiff engine mounts to prevent engine flex. Now it rubs the strut bolts on both sides of the engine bay and thats not from the engine but from body flex. All the work.......I feel sick You can raise the hood slighly. Add washers to the hood mount bolts (you may need longer bolts from a hardware store) and unscrew the rubber hood bumpers more. http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?p=314622#post314622 If you don't have a plenum cover, the strut tower brace from BMR runs around the front of the intake manifold (rather than over) and will stop a lot of the body flex. Not 100% sure it will clear the hood though. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm Another cheaper option is a GT500 strut tower brace from Ford part number is 7R3Z16A200B (Ford calls it a bracket). You can reverse it so the brace sits to the back of the intake manifold. It will clear the hood in this position but you will have to lower the coil pack by fabricating a new mount for it. Stock, the brace interferes with the coil pack. http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?t=29129&page=2 I am guessing you have a 2005-2006 mustang. In 2007 they stiffened the front of the body significantly as part of the GT500 program, but the same chasis is used so all mustangs got the benefit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPStang06_merged Posted June 23, 2007 Report Share Posted June 23, 2007 You can raise the hood slighly. Add washers to the hood mount bolts (you may need longer bolts from a hardware store) and unscrew the rubber hood bumpers more. http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?p=314622#post314622 If you don't have a plenum cover, the strut tower brace from BMR runs around the front of the intake manifold (rather than over) and will stop a lot of the body flex. Not 100% sure it will clear the hood though. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm Another cheaper option is a GT500 strut tower brace from Ford part number is 7R3Z16A200B (Ford calls it a bracket). You can reverse it so the brace sits to the back of the intake manifold. It will clear the hood in this position but you will have to lower the coil pack by fabricating a new mount for it. Stock, the brace interferes with the coil pack. http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?t=29129&page=2 I am guessing you have a 2005-2006 mustang. In 2007 they stiffened the front of the body significantly as part of the GT500 program, but the same chasis is used so all mustangs got the benefit. Yea mine is an 06' and it's the alternator that is hitting the most. It gets relocated upwards on the Roush Super charger install. I'm ok now, gonna work with it some more, was just feeling down last night. B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paleoc Posted July 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 ShelbyV6 has posted a long rant on another thread in this forum and I wanted to cover some of his points here rather than step on his thread. Before I started I researched the internet for a year for information on the car and the build. I was prepared to be patient and deal with mis-steps of which there have been more than a few. I have posted many of these and other issues I have dealt with in this thread as well as a complete build thread at http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?t=29129 In those threads I have clearly stated that the stock driveshaft is a total POS! and needs to be replaced. There are several forums which discuss V6 driveshafts (and V8 ones as well) as having exploded. Should Shelby have mentioned this in their literature, possibly. As a further note, the manual transmission is only rated for 300 ft-lbs of torque which is also exceeded. So every trip down the dragship is a risk. As for delays, my car was delivered from the dealer in August. I picked it up in April. But I knew from the start that it would be a long slog. And I was mentally prepared. Before anyone does one of these they should check these forums, check the forum link above and do some of their own research. I am always available for questions. One more note for Canadian builders. The supercharger warranty is void if the car is started at 25 degrees farenheit or less (unless an engine heater is used). That's from the supercharger manual. If I had to do it over, would I? Probably I would buy a GT-S and supercharge it instead, but now that it is done, I have a better looking car which I am quite pleased with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPStang06_merged Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 Thanks Paleoc. I will be going through that thread tomorrow as I still have fitting issues with the front fascia. The sides that meet the front fenders still don't sit flush with the fenders. I have tried a bunch of different things to get them better but over it looks like i need to add some foam on the upper sides of the bumpers so the sides don't droop down. The factory foam doesn't help. You can see it here in this picture when it was still at the bodyshop. It's not as bad now but still not straight. It looks like I will need to shim the driver side fender as well as the hood is higher in the middle but flush at the rear and front. Oh yea, I settled the hood issue with the alternator by making the whole larger. Once I get some edge trip it will almost look like it's meant to be there(I hope) like a functional vent but noticed that two of the strut bolts are making contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paleoc Posted July 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 I will be doing a list of installation notes and consolidate my forum posting (major, moderate, and minor) and will post it here on a new thread (and on the other forums) when done. It will probably take me a few days to finish it so be patient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue24 Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 lower grille installed.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue24 Posted July 21, 2007 Report Share Posted July 21, 2007 I bought my suspension mods: -Steeda G-trac Brace, SS Anti-squat Brackets, SS Stage II Springs, SS Adj. Panhard bar, Steeda Heavy Duty Rear Swaybar with Endlinks and Front Swaybar, Steeda Bumpsteer kit, Steeda Rear Strut Tower Brace, GT-500 Front Strut Tower Brace, Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Strut Mounts, Tokico D-spec Adj. Shocks. I just wanted a little more adjustability. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paleoc Posted August 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2007 Got the Scott Drake parts today. They look good but he should have spent as much time on the fit as well as the finish. The Brake Fluid cap goes on very, very loose. Fortunately I had a large rubber washer which fixed the problem. The power steering cap has a tiny vent hole in it. From reading on some forums, this unnecessary vent hole allows water into the power steering unit and corrupts the fluid, eventually ruining the power steering unit. As per their recommendations, I put a drop of silicone on the hole, but it doesn’t look very good. The retaining loop was slightly too small and was a major struggle to get it on. The stock V6 oil dipstick is not removable from the handle. It is a plastic and molded on the stick. I will have to buy another dipstick (GT?) adjust it to the right length and connect it to the handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IASHELBYGT Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Got the Scott Drake parts today. They look good but he should have spent as much time on the fit as well as the finish. The Brake Fluid cap goes on very, very loose. Fortunately I had a large rubber washer which fixed the problem. The power steering cap has a tiny vent hole in it. From reading on some forums, this unnecessary vent hole allows water into the power steering unit and corrupts the fluid, eventually ruining the power steering unit. As per their recommendations, I put a drop of silicone on the hole, but it doesn’t look very good. The retaining loop was slightly too small and was a major struggle to get it on. The stock V6 oil dipstick is not removable from the handle. It is a plastic and molded on the stick. I will have to buy another dipstick (GT?) adjust it to the right length and connect it to the handle. Hey Paleoc, I installed the Scott Drake fluid caps today and encountered similar problems. PS connecting loop was too small and a struggle to get on. What kind of silicon did you use in the vent hole? I have some DAP black silicone gasket sealant. Think that will work? Also, on my oil dip stick the o-ring was too large on the Shelby part and I could not get it to fit flush in the hole and I lost the stupid mounting pin down a crack in the driveway so I hope I can find a replacement with out having to buy a whole new dip stick. Overall a 20 min job took 1 1/2 hours. They look good but could have been better fits. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paleoc Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Hey Paleoc, I installed the Scott Drake fluid caps today and encountered similar problems. PS connecting loop was too small and a struggle to get on. What kind of silicon did you use in the vent hole? I have some DAP black silicone gasket sealant. Think that will work? Also, on my oil dip stick the o-ring was too large on the Shelby part and I could not get it to fit flush in the hole and I lost the stupid mounting pin down a crack in the driveway so I hope I can find a replacement with out having to buy a whole new dip stick. Overall a 20 min job took 1 1/2 hours. They look good but could have been better fits. Dave I used clear silicone but in hindsight, a drop of superglue would probably work as well. The black would show up too much. I've read about the o-ring being too big. I'll probably dip into my plumbing supplies where the large o-ring for the brake fluid cap came from and find a better fitting o-ring for the dipstick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue24 Posted August 17, 2007 Report Share Posted August 17, 2007 I lowered the stang.... :D 1.5in in the front and 1.75in in the back, also changed the swaybars with heavy duty steeda ones and put in the tokico d-specs, steeda g-trac brace, adjustable panhard bar and antisquat brackets... the # is for racing in the EMRA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
circleofsnakes Posted August 18, 2007 Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I love the way that sits. i'm hoping one of the ford dealerships has a sale before I take off to Canada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang Myster Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 I love the way that sits. i'm hoping one of the ford dealerships has a sale before I take off to Canada. Do you have any bump steer issues? I also installed the bump steer kit from Steeda, but I still get the odd pull, on bumpy roads, or when I brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paleoc Posted August 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Do you have any bump steer issues? I also installed the bump steer kit from Steeda, but I still get the odd pull, on bumpy roads, or when I brake. I get a pull on hard braking but I never mentally connected it in with bump steer. Hmmm, I'll have to think about that. I've never noticed a pull on bumpy roads but then due to the very stiff suspension, I try to avoid bumpy roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue24 Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 I get a pull on hard braking but I never mentally connected it in with bump steer. Hmmm, I'll have to think about that. I've never noticed a pull on bumpy roads but then due to the very stiff suspension, I try to avoid bumpy roads. After installing the bumpsteer kit I notice that the "pull" when braking went away, also when I hit a bump in a turn, insted of the car violetly jolting in eather direction, I feel a "squshy" senstation on the steering wheel. The bumpsteer kit is adjustable for lowered cars, you might want to check it, the Ideal setting is for it to be level with the A-arm. But then again I installed all my suspension upgrades at the same time so somethng else may have corrected the braking "pull". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang Myster Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 After installing the bumpsteer kit I notice that the "pull" when braking went away, also when I hit a bump in a turn, insted of the car violetly jolting in eather direction, I feel a "squshy" senstation on the steering wheel. The bumpsteer kit is adjustable for lowered cars, you might want to check it, the Ideal setting is for it to be level with the A-arm. But then again I installed all my suspension upgrades at the same time so somethng else may have corrected the braking "pull". I'll have to have someone check it out. You'd think that the bump steer kit would take care of the problem. Thanks for checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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