Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

Synthetic Oils


Recommended Posts

Okay, so I know that there were a few good discussions of this on the ShelbyAutos forum, but they're gone and I can't remember what the general consensus turned out to be.

 

I'm taking #4990 in tonight for its first (5K) oil change, and I was thinking of going with Mobile 1. The local dealership is recommending their Autocraft 5-20 at $6.61 per quart and says that I'll need 6.25 (call it 7) quarts. Has anyone used this stuff?

 

Also, the FRPP filter is not available at the dealership, and it'll take them 2-3 days to order one from a FR-authorized dealer...for $16. Is it worth waiting for? I'm leaning toward just stopping by Advance Auto on the way there an getting the Mobile 1 and see what they have in the way of performance filters.

 

Any suggestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Okay, so I know that there were a few good discussions of this on the ShelbyAutos forum, but they're gone and I can't remember what the general consensus turned out to be.

 

I'm taking #4990 in tonight for its first (5K) oil change, and I was thinking of going with Mobile 1. The local dealership is recommending their Autocraft 5-20 at $6.61 per quart and says that I'll need 6.25 (call it 7) quarts. Has anyone used this stuff?

 

Also, the FRPP filter is not available at the dealership, and it'll take them 2-3 days to order one from a FR-authorized dealer...for $16. Is it worth waiting for? I'm leaning toward just stopping by Advance Auto on the way there an getting the Mobile 1 and see what they have in the way of performance filters.

 

Any suggestions?

If I remember correctly from the other board

 

1. Stock Motorcraft oil or Mobil 1 orAmsoil (no one will ever agree on oil).

2. No need for the special filter since there are not enough modifications to warrant the racing filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, here we go again, folks. I love how these threads get heated at times, and I've never seen any resolution or agreement. But, they are fun too. It's strictly opinion based, and no one is wrong to express their opinion. Let's see if we can do it better this time?

 

IMHO...It's a stock 4.6-3V engine used in thousands of applications. The short block has been on the street since 1991 under the Triton name. With minor variances for specific applications i.e. FWD/AWD, or the forged internals for supercharged cars, it's nothing special. Just a good solid engine you may expect to live a long life if properly maintained. Once you start modding it, or, beating it to death, the weaknesses will show themselves.

 

I've had more than my share of the 4.6L-? engine, and they do very well with one specific engine oil. Clean oil, and frequent drain intervals. My program is every 2500 miles, or, before any long distance OTR trip. 5W20 Motorcraft multiblend synethic bulk from the dealer, and a Motorcraft FL820S filter.

 

Oil changes range from 19.95 to 21.95, depending on particular sales by my dealership. At the frequency I drain and change, it's not an expensive program.

 

I have nothing against synethics, 'cept they cost between 6 and 8 bucks a quart. X7 = 42.00 for the oil alone, and at my frequency, not worth it.

 

The FRP filter from FRP is sold only by the case for 165.00 plus tax and shipping. That's 19.80 per filter if you buy from FRP. They are no better than the Motorcraft I mentioned, in fact, they are cross referenced in the FRP catalogue. I believe they are Motorcraft filters anyway, with a paint job. The Motorcraft is 6.00 at my dealer.

 

So, 42.00 + 19.80 = 61.80 in parts alone. If you change your oil yourself, I guess it's acceptable. If not, add another 20.00 + for the lube rack service?

 

I won't argue the performance of pure synethic vs. multiblend synethic. However, the goal is a healthy maintenence program, and clean is key to longevity with these engines. I'm not a cheap bast*ard, but I won't pizz away my money without a good reason, and I can't find justification of the expense, 'cept maybe bragging rights for using superior and exotic (meaning overpriced) consumables.

 

Just my .02 gents, carry on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh...One other thing...oil weights.

 

If you're tempted to change weights, remember that the lubrication system is part of the colling system, and the correct weight is specified by Ford. Change it, and you may change your EOT, and that affects performance.

 

When the combustion chambers heat up, the EEC adjusts fuel trim to rich, and adds/pulls spark and timing as needed to cool things down.

 

This could be a complication if your aftermarket tune is on the edge, but that's another topic for discussion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just went ahead and used some leftover bottles of synthetic Valvoline and a regular old Fram oil filter from Autozone. I normally use Mobil 1 but since it wasn't in the engine at first I didn't bother. The SRT line comes with Mobil 1 from the factory, so that's what I used in the old car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know you guys miss the single forum but this topic should be in the Shelby GT Mod & Tech area of the forum. Now I have to go and move it. :banghead:

 

I know today it seems a hassle but one day you will ne thankful we have all the car specific tech stuff in one area with the "dicussion around the car" in another.

 

:happy feet: <---- see! Me happy I can just read modification, machanical and tech related topics in one place!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know you guys miss the single forum but this topic should be in the Shelby GT Mod & Tech area of the forum. Now I have to go and move it. :banghead:

 

I know today it seems a hassle but one day you will ne thankful we have all the car specific tech stuff in one area with the "dicussion around the car" in another.

 

:happy feet: <---- see! Me happy I can just read modification, machanical and tech related topics in once place!

Yeah, maybe. But, I'm an old f*ck and change comes hard. Born and raised in a traditional Irish home, the kitchen was the center of the house, and everyone friendly came to the back door.

 

There was a little room off to the side of the kitchen called a pantry. Everything important was kept in the pantry, and put back there between uses. Guess it's not that way anymore, but I think you can go too far in dicing things up. Folks get confused on where to start posting, or, looking for stuff, and it's a lot more to manage as well.

 

Ahhh Hell...Just another shortcut added to my favorite places, no use in crying about it, eh?

 

Happy motoring, gents...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picked up a bunch of Mobile 1 full synthetic and a Mobile 1 filter today and dropped them off at the dealership with the car (I'd change it myself, but they are trouble shooting an exhaust rattle...). Thanks for the info.

 

Also, I didn't realize this was a "heated" discussion. Just a question looking for everyone's experiences, that's all.

 

Moving from the factory blend to a full synthetic, what service intervals is everyone using? The owner's manual says 5K, so I assume this was sufficient on the OEM blended oil (assuming not operating in a "harsh" environment and all). I previously owned a 2001 BMW, and the dealership wouldn't even change the synthetic oil until the little on-board computer told you to take it in. I think that my first trip back to the mothership was at about 16K miles, and the thing was fine. Is it safe to push Mobile 1 in the SGT to 10K? Neither the instructions on the oil bottle nor on the oil filter mentioned this.

 

I just went ahead and used some leftover bottles of synthetic Valvoline and a regular old Fram oil filter from Autozone. I normally use Mobil 1 but since it wasn't in the engine at first I didn't bother. The SRT line comes with Mobil 1 from the factory, so that's what I used in the old car.

You're my hero! I was debating the GT500 vs. the Charger SRT8 vs. the Shelby GT. The Charger made sense from a practicality standpoint (wife, two kids with one more on the way...), but the fuel mileage sucked, especially given the premium fuel issue. The GT500 was my favorite, but I wasn't willing to pay over sticker and no one would take my money. The Shelby GT made more sense from a cost and fuel efficiency standpoint (I'm averaging over 22...and I don't baby it), plus it's a freaking Shelby, but if I had my way, there'd be a silver Charger SRT8 sitting beside the black Shelby GT in the garage (and my wife's minivan would be parked in the driveway beside my F150 SCrew). Enjoy the Mopar!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know you guys miss the single forum but this topic should be in the Shelby GT Mod & Tech area of the forum. Now I have to go and move it. :banghead:

 

I know today it seems a hassle but one day you will ne thankful we have all the car specific tech stuff in one area with the "dicussion around the car" in another.

 

:happy feet: <---- see! Me happy I can just read modification, machanical and tech related topics in once place!

My bad, my bad. I'll be more careful next time.

 

I didn't think to search this forum also; sorry if I rehashed an old and previously beaten topic. Old dog, new tricks...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My bad, my bad. I'll be more careful next time.

 

I didn't think to search this forum also; sorry if I rehashed an old and previously beaten topic. Old dog, new tricks...

 

No no, you guys are fine! This is why there is a 'Move' function. Just a reminder of the new format if it ever changes I'd be happy not to bother with with it but that's the forum structure and if we don't follow it I think things will only get more confusing as new people will just assume they should search for something like this in the Tech area, etc., etc., etc.

 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AMSoil 0W-30 and the AMSoil filter. When reviewing filters I look for a filter that will filter out a minimum of 20 microns and preferably 15. I also look for the highest percentage of multi-pass efficiency.

 

LuLu is right Much of this is based on opinion and loyalty to a brand.

 

On the fomer Shelby Public Forum someone stated that the 2008 Mustang GT now has a recommendation of full synthetic. I do not know this to be fact. But if so people might want to be aware of this.

 

Does anyone have a 2008 that can comment on the requirement?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The FRP filter from FRP is sold only by the case for 165.00 plus tax and shipping. That's 19.80 per filter if you buy from FRP. They are no better than the Motorcraft I mentioned, in fact, they are cross referenced in the FRP catalogue. I believe they are Motorcraft filters anyway, with a paint job. The Motorcraft is 6.00 at my dealer.

 

Actually you can buy the Ford Racing Filter individually at any Ford Racing Authorized parts counter, I purchased mine for $13.75 at John Bleakley Ford. No need to buy a case.

 

Whatever oil and filter combination you use for a street driven car is really an individual preference as long as you follow the manufactureres weight recommendation and change the oil frequently. Nothing better than clean oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a word of caution...Nothing more.

 

WIX and Fram filters won't pass through Ford warranty claims. They both have weak drain back valves that get sucked out in high RPMs, and when the tech drops your oil pan and finds little pieces of orange plastic in the pan, you're on your own. This is why Ford publishes minimum specs. Step outside the lines, they are off the warranty hook.

 

This is another reason why engines are replaced as whole assemblies and not rebuilt at the dealership level. The blown engine is crated back to FMC tech for close examination, and when they find something out of order, the claim is charged back to the dealership. You're next on the call list, asking "VISA, or Mastercard?"

 

Posted the whole story on the old site, don't feel like telling it again now. My advice is look up some specs, and do what you wanna do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually you can buy the Ford Racing Filter individually at any Ford Racing Authorized parts counter, I purchased mine for $13.75 at John Bleakley Ford. No need to buy a case.

 

Whatever oil and filter combination you use for a street driven car is really an individual preference as long as you follow the manufactureres weight recommendation and change the oil frequently. Nothing better than clean oil.

+1...Nothing better than clean oil gets my vote.

 

The ease of buying a single FRP filter for the average Joe, and the need to buy by the case? I disagree.

 

There are only 160 authorized FRP dealers in the free world. This includes off shore US Hawaii, Canada, Austrialia, New Zealand, and two unidentified "european" locations I suspect are in Great Britain, considering their love for racing the Focus.

 

There are four around me, Sutton Ford, Rod Baker Ford and Victor Ford, as well as Winner's Circle, an independent parts house. Sadly, each is more than 20 miles from my front door, and I have to X this by fuel consumption and drive time. 13.75 USD is twice the cost of the Motorcraft filter, and driving out for a retail OTC purchase of one filter isn't responsible expenditure of time and resources. I lose, even surrounded by FRP dealers as it appears. Ordering by the case is the least expensive option for many here, including me. Moreover, of these 160 authorized depots, some are;

 

LS = local sales (over the counter)

MO = mail order only (ebay?)

EB = engine builder (trust me, it won't be 13.75)

IN = installer (fits with other licenses)

WH = wholesale (must be another dealer, or, a parts house with a tax ID)

 

Which is to say that you won't have access to all 160 FRP dealers. Add it all up, and you're one lucky man, my friend and I envy you.

 

Meanwhile, why spend the coin when you get nothing back for it? If you are an early/frequent changer as I am, appreciating clean oil over 10-16K drains, skip the FRP filter and stick with the Motorcraft. Same freaking filter, with a paint job.

 

BTW, how's the weather in Lithia Springs, GA.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picked up a bunch of Mobile 1 full synthetic and a Mobile 1 filter today and dropped them off at the dealership with the car (I'd change it myself, but they are trouble shooting an exhaust rattle...). Thanks for the info.

 

Also, I didn't realize this was a "heated" discussion. Just a question looking for everyone's experiences, that's all.

 

Moving from the factory blend to a full synthetic, what service intervals is everyone using? The owner's manual says 5K, so I assume this was sufficient on the OEM blended oil (assuming not operating in a "harsh" environment and all). I previously owned a 2001 BMW, and the dealership wouldn't even change the synthetic oil until the little on-board computer told you to take it in. I think that my first trip back to the mothership was at about 16K miles, and the thing was fine. Is it safe to push Mobile 1 in the SGT to 10K? Neither the instructions on the oil bottle nor on the oil filter mentioned this.

 

 

My wife's GM product comes from the factory with Mobil-1. This is our second car with Mobil-1 that tells you when to change the oil. Calculates % of oil life remaining. This car and our previous car will go at least 10,000 miles before it tells you to change the oil. Mobil-1 oil can definetely last 10,000 miles but I would change the filter only at 5,000 miles. I use Mobil-1 5w-50 in my GT-500 and change the oil and filter every 2,500 miles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LuLu, are you saying the Fram and Wix are not OEM quality? If they are OEM then Ford would have to accept in the event of a failure.

 

We know Ford/Motorcraft does not make their own filters so who makes the filter for Motorcraft?

Sorry, I can't answer your pointed questions, and please do not take my word for it. Check it out on your own?

 

Ford doesn't (and doesn't have to) agree to squat, I know this from personal experience. Do yourself a favor, and don't make such assumptions. If any component on the SGT doesn't meet Ford/FRP/SAI specs, you own it.

 

I posted a more detailed description of this situation at the old SGT site, but I'm not going through all that again. If you need to trace corporate agreements, resources, tech specs, and manufacturing alliances, try Google? Maybe start here?;

 

http://www.ford.com/vehicles/ford-cars-tru...raft-parts-644p

 

Frankly, I don't know who manufactures the Motorcraft filter. But, I do know there are FMC specs on oil filters that need to be thought out during the warranty period. Some filters are less expensive than others yes, and others may be called cheap and insufficient for a performance car. Only some will get the approval "nod" from FMC in a warranty claim. I know this process too.

 

I also know that Fram and WIX filters do not make the grade with FMC, and will come apart under high RPM. Once the lab techs examine a blown engine and find evidence of the orange plastic blow back drain valve in the oil pan, again, you own it.

 

Like I said before, do what you want to do. I'm just trying to help with advice born in my personal and first hand experience . Whether you believe me or not, make your own choice. It's your car, and your warranty.

 

Carry on gents...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok i'm kinda hijacking this thread. but it is still kinda sorta about oil....at least oil changing.

 

on the maintenance schedule do any of you go by due date of next service or mileage? i took mine to get serviced at 1000 miles back in early november and today i just got a mail from Ford sayin that i'm overdue for my 12/25/07 or 5000 mile service schedule. :blink:

what the crap? i just serviced it in november and i only have 2600 miles on it right now.

what should i do? bring it in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok i'm kinda hijacking this thread. but it is still kinda sorta about oil....at least oil changing.

 

on the maintenance schedule do any of you go by due date of next service or mileage? i took mine to get serviced at 1000 miles back in early november and today i just got a mail from Ford sayin that i'm overdue for my 12/25/07 or 5000 mile service schedule. :blink:

what the crap? i just serviced it in november and i only have 2600 miles on it right now.

what should i do? bring it in?

 

Don't let their canned software override common sense :hysterical:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't let their canned software override common sense :hysterical:

Well said. The mailings are sent based on a national average of miles driven in a specific period of time, a time clock of sorts.

 

If your car has been idle as my LuLu has, get an oil change in the spring. Changing temps could add condensation. If not, go by your mileage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well said. The mailings are sent based on a national average of miles driven in a specific period of time, a time clock of sorts.

 

If your car has been idle as my LuLu has, get an oil change in the spring. Changing temps could add condensation. If not, go by your mileage.

i drive it everyday to work though (15 mile round trip). but i dont do much more driving than that. mainly just in town. when spring comes around i'll probly be beatin down more asfault.

 

i dont think they even changed the oil the first time. they just checked the level and all the other fluid levels and basic overall spot checks of components: steering, suspension, batery, hoses, brakes, lines, etc etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I changed mine at 1000 with a Mobil 1 and filter. At 2500, Precious wound up at the dealer for something else so I had them do my planned oil change then. I was putting myself on a 2500 mile interval that would be easy to remember (2500, 5000, 7500, etc). I ordered the motorcraft full synthetic. It cost me $63. That is about the same I pay form my wife's Passat with full synthetic at an oil change place. Therefore, Precious will be going back to the dealer when she hits 5000.

 

If anybody is interested, the Paxton service manual advises oil changes according to the manufacturers heavy use schedule. 3000 miles according to our users manual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Motorcraft Synthetic blend 5W-20 every 3000 miles just like the book says...do it myself.

 

This post brings to mind another question...What is the best thing to use to track service? I'm just using one of those little memo notebooks. Can't find anything at Wal-Mart, Auto-Zone, or O'riely's to record service.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Motorcraft Synthetic blend 5W-20 every 3000 miles just like the book says...do it myself.

 

This post brings to mind another question...What is the best thing to use to track service? I'm just using one of those little memo notebooks. Can't find anything at Wal-Mart, Auto-Zone, or O'riely's to record service.

You prolly have the best system going on right now. Paper and pencil, a small memo book in the console. I've seen some tailored specifically for folks who use cars for work, and a tax deduction. Two bucks? Can't beat that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 Qts of Royal Purple 10/40 XPR and a K&N 1040 Filter every 2,000 miles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re records I keep the receipts for the oil and filter and usually write the date and mileage in a notebook. I also will tear off the box top of the filter showing the filter used and again write the date and mileage on the box top. Keep everything in a folder. With full synthetic I feel it is safe to go 5 K miles and it is easy to keep track of. However, the beautiful WHITE SGT will probably never see 5 K in a year so it is then changed once a year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...
...