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Spark Plug torque


moabman

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Did a google search and saw some disturbing information. There were many stories about plugs blowing out in the older 2V engine so I thought I better double check. I'm switching spark plugs to 1 range colder with the supercharger and can't find the torque specs. I also searched this site and didn't see the specs. Everyone seemed to recommend anti-seize compound and 9-15 ft/lbs. Anyone know for sure?

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Clean threads with a brass brush, then lubricate/coat threads with anit-seize compound meeting XG-3A silicone specs (also used in brake calipers). FMC P/N ESE-MICI171-A, but off-the-shelf anti-seize should meet these specs as well. Hand screw in place, then torque to 25 lb-ft.

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I know they have torque specs from Ford but we have had no issues with hand tightening then a 1/4 turn with a 3/8ths ratchet. We run a 68mm turbo with up to 17lbs of boost on an engine that makes 9.1 compression. We have never had a plug blow out. I ran the same torque for the plugs on our 02 GT without issues as well.

Derek

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Did a google search and saw some disturbing information. There were many stories about plugs blowing out in the older 2V engine so I thought I better double check. I'm switching spark plugs to 1 range colder with the supercharger and can't find the torque specs. I also searched this site and didn't see the specs. Everyone seemed to recommend anti-seize compound and 9-15 ft/lbs. Anyone know for sure?

moabman, straight from the shop manual says 25 ft lb on the 4.6 and 13 ft lb on the 5.4 shelby.

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Thanks for all of the replies! This forum has the answers. I'm glad I asked because the 9 ft/lbs answer I found doing an internet search looks a little light now.

 

I have usually used your technique in the past Derek, but snapping the stud off in the head during the Saleen install and the stories of the the older 2V spark plug problems made me think that I ought to use the torque wrench (after all it was a pretty expensive tool). I won't be making your boost levels (probably doing 10 - 11 psi) but I still have the stock compression ratio.

 

Thanks again - y'all rock :rockon:

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Make sure you have an air-gun when you do this. I'm only changing the plugs for the blower but with only 4550 miles, there was a lot of crud down in those spark plug wells and I had to really clean it with an industrial nozzle at over 100 psi to get it clean before I took the plug out. I don't want to think what that crud would do in my cylinders if it fell in (and it would)!

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JDM gapped mine at .030 which is smaller than the factory gap. These are one range cooler and of course I now have a 10 psi boost so I guess the smaller gap is to keep the spark from blowing out. Anyone know?

That's exactly what I would do, if this counts for anything.

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They are all in and the car is running smooth. Now for a little WOT test :happy feet:

 

I love the connectors on the fuel injectors and the coil-on-plugs because they make the job so easy when they are disconnected. Just a warning again - use an airgun before removing the old plugs.

 

Thanks again for the help on the torque. :yahoo:

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They are all in and the car is running smooth. Now for a little WOT test :happy feet:

 

I love the connectors on the fuel injectors and the coil-on-plugs because they make the job so easy when they are disconnected. JUst a warning again - use an airgun before removing the old plugs.

 

Thanks again for the help on the torque. :yahoo:

glad to help & nice to see it went well.you make a good point on blowing out the plug wells ,they can get dirty and even water in them.one more tip, use die electric grease on the plug wire where it goes over the plug and it doesn't hurt to put a small bead around the top of the wire[where it seals the well-before reinstalling] to prevent water entry. p.s. if anyone has trouble removing stubborn plugs, try loosening them a little first the spray some penetrating oil in the well and let sit several minutes,it works well and can prevent diasterous results.

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I used the dielectric on the end of the plug boot - there was still some of the grease that came from the factory and it looked the same as the grease I bought from the auto parts store. I also used a small amount of anti-sieze compound on the first two threads.

 

Good tip on stuck plug boots - Thanks!

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