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Clutch Shudder


dhouston

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First off, Happy New Year to all here. Been enjoying my '08 Vapor coupe and havent had much of a chance to post here of late.

 

I have a quick question on my clutch. I am finally getting used to the action now. I have driven many stick cars, but this one seems to be the most finicky. During the first few weeks I owned the car, I killed it almost every time I drove it. Seems I couldnt get used to it releasing all the way at the top. But now I am getting a bit better.

 

But every now and then when I release the clutch, the car shudders miserably. The whole car shakes until I get off the gas or release the clutch. It seems like the clutch is slipping badly.I know it is a ceramic unit and the Owners manual says driving experiences can be different depending on the technique. But I am wondering should I have it checked , or is this just normal. What are you guys experiencing?

 

Love the car, and this is about the only complaint I have. So, wanted to get some advice. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Happy New Year,

Dave

 

 

DSC04485.jpg

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First off, Happy New Year to all here. Been enjoying my '08 Vapor coupe and havent had much of a chance to post here of late.

 

I have a quick question on my clutch. I am finally getting used to the action now. I have driven many stick cars, but this one seems to be the most finicky. During the first few weeks I owned the car, I killed it almost every time I drove it. Seems I couldnt get used to it releasing all the way at the top. But now I am getting a bit better.

 

But every now and then when I release the clutch, the car shudders miserably. The whole car shakes until I get off the gas or release the clutch. It seems like the clutch is slipping badly.I know it is a ceramic unit and the Owners manual says driving experiences can be different depending on the technique. But I am wondering should I have it checked , or is this just normal. What are you guys experiencing?

 

Love the car, and this is about the only complaint I have. So, wanted to get some advice. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Happy New Year,

Dave

 

 

DSC04485.jpg

 

 

dhouston -

 

Unfortunately, you're describing the same experience many of us are having. It is a little bit of a challenge to master, and it happens from time to time after that.

 

By the way, great group of cars you have there.

 

HSURB

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This, too, shall pass.

 

I think part of it is the gearing. I have another Mustang and a SHO and both of those are higher MPH at a given RPM in first gear. It took a while to get used to giving the GT500 more throttle when starting out - it's counter-intuitive. Once I figured that out, I quit stalling the car.

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IT took me time to get use to the clutch as well. I have now mastered it. I find that the clutch peddle has a very short space that you can ride it. You just need to hold it in that short space without letting it out any further. Give the throttle a little blip before doing this. You will get better on the chatter when you master this. I can tell you that this problem will go away when you put lower gears in. It will be much easier to take off as in my opinion the car is geared to high causing some of this problem. This will be a mod I will be doing when they release the pinion bearing for sale. Hope this helps. JJ

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Do you want to sell any of the old ones...? I guess am dreaming :rolleyes:

 

 

Hey Sharabi - The '70 Boss is a keeper. It will be my son's in 30 years, he's 10 now ! So its not for sale. But would consider selling my 65 Fastback. If you're interested, email me at daveh351@comcast.net and I can give you all the information on it.

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Thanks for all the input. Sounds like most are experiencing similiar clutch shudder at times. Think that is an accurate way to describe it.

 

I will keep working on technique. But man, is there little room for error as this clutch releases completely at the top and there is very little space between disengagement and release. I had heard there is no adjustment either. Was wondering if anyone has been able to adjust the pedal ?

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Thanks for all the input. Sounds like most are experiencing similiar clutch shudder at times. Think that is an accurate way to describe it.

 

I will keep working on technique. But man, is there little room for error as this clutch releases completely at the top and there is very little space between disengagement and release. I had heard there is no adjustment either. Was wondering if anyone has been able to adjust the pedal ?

 

thx...it was my way of saying how nice your collection was. i just got my GT500. 40 miles on it waiting for the snow to go from MI to drive it more.

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IT took me time to get use to the clutch as well. I have now mastered it. I find that the clutch peddle has a very short space that you can ride it. You just need to hold it in that short space without letting it out any further. Give the throttle a little blip before doing this. You will get better on the chatter when you master this. I can tell you that this problem will go away when you put lower gears in. It will be much easier to take off as in my opinion the car is geared to high causing some of this problem. This will be a mod I will be doing when they release the pinion bearing for sale. Hope this helps. JJ

I know many GT500 owners that have swapped out the stock gears without having to replace the pinion bearings, only one person I know so far has had to change these bearings, and that was because the shop forgot to put oil back in the differential before he drove the car. Only the inner pinion bearing needs to be removed and reinstalled, this bearing is easily removed without damaging anything.

IMO, your safe to go ahead with gear swap without having these bearings in hand, I did it twice no problem, fist 4.10's then 3.73's.

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Yep, I get the shudders every so often starting up from a stop - typically it's from bad form in coordinating the clutch release and applying throttle.

 

I use to stall the car while getting acquainted with the clutch; it is a very touchy mechanism with a very narrow range between disengaged and fully engaged.

 

What helped me was to find the friction point - putting the car in motion by slowly letting out the clutch without applying any throttle.

 

Now I just apply light throttle once I release the clutch to that friction point and gradually let the clutch all the way out while increasing throttle.

 

It also helps me to turn down the radio so I can hear the throttle response; had it too loud yesterday and stalled it once.

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It also helps me to turn down the radio so I can hear the throttle response; had it too loud yesterday and stalled it once.

Very good point. I have a tendency to be less than graceful if I have the stereo on.

 

I checked something yesterday, though. My clutch is NOT grabbing at the top - it's middle-upper in the pedal travel range, right where I would put it if I had a choice. This is the second thread where I've seen posts referring to the clutch grabbing at the top.

 

I don't know the clutch linkage, but on hydraulics there is usually a shaft from the pedal to the master cylinder, similar to a brake (only smaller). If the shaft is a wee bit too long, the pedal would engage too high.

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Dave,

 

Congrats on your New Ride... Love the Collection and how all of them match in color ... VERY NICEE !!!

 

As for the shudder, you have to get used to the clutch and not feather it... takes time.. If your lazy with it

, it will die on you. Im still getting used to it after 1600miles on the car. :hysterical: Enjoy. :happy feet:

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If you have an Oasis report run on your vehicle, this is one of the things that will pop up:

 

19922 2007-2008 MUSTANG SHELBY GT500 - CLUTCH CHATTER

SOME 2007 - 2008 SHELBY GT500 MUSTANGS EQUIPPED WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION MAY EXHIBIT A "CLUTCH CHATTER" DURING INITIAL TAKE-OFF OF THE VEHICLE WHEN THE TRANSMISSION IS HOT. THE CLUTCH CHATTER MAY BE PRESENT IN 1ST AND/OR REVERSE GEARS AND IS CONSIDERED A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC CAUSED BY THE CERAMETALIC CLUTCH LINING. THE CLUTCH CHATTER HAS NO EFFECT ON THE PERFORMANCE OR DURABILITY OF THE VEHICLE. COMPARE TO A LIKE UNIT. IF THE SYMPTOM IS EXCESSIVE COMPARED TO A LIKE UNIT, FOLLOW NORMAL WORKSHOP MANUAL PROCEDURES TO FURTHER DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE.

EFFECTIVE DATE: 08/16/2007

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This of course pops up too:

 

19920 2007-2008 SHELBY MUSTANG GT500 - HISS NOISE FROM CLUTCH DURING ENGAGEMENT

SOME 2007-2008 SHELBY GT500 MUSTANGS EQUIPPED WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION MAY EXHIBIT A "HISS" NOISE FROM THE DRIVELINE DURING CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT. THE HISS NOISE IS MOST NOTICEABLE DURING INITIAL ENGAGEMENT OF THE CLUTCH IN 1ST AND/OR REVERSE GEARS AND IS CONSIDERED A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC CAUSED WHEN THE CERAMETALIC CLUTCH LINING CONTACTS THE PRESSURE PLATE AND FLY WHEEL METAL SURFACES. THE NOISE HAS NO EFFECT ON THE PERFORMANCE OR DURABILITY OF THE VEHICLE. COMPARE TO A LIKE UNIT. IF THE SYMPTOM IS EXCESSIVE COMPARED TO A LIKE UNIT, FOLLOW NORMAL WORKSHOP MANUAL PROCEDURES TO FURTHER DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE.

EFFECTIVE DATE: 08/16/2007

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This of course pops up too:

 

19920 2007-2008 SHELBY MUSTANG GT500 - HISS NOISE FROM CLUTCH DURING ENGAGEMENT

SOME 2007-2008 SHELBY GT500 MUSTANGS EQUIPPED WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION MAY EXHIBIT A "HISS" NOISE FROM THE DRIVELINE DURING CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT. THE HISS NOISE IS MOST NOTICEABLE DURING INITIAL ENGAGEMENT OF THE CLUTCH IN 1ST AND/OR REVERSE GEARS AND IS CONSIDERED A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC CAUSED WHEN THE CERAMETALIC CLUTCH LINING CONTACTS THE PRESSURE PLATE AND FLY WHEEL METAL SURFACES. THE NOISE HAS NO EFFECT ON THE PERFORMANCE OR DURABILITY OF THE VEHICLE. COMPARE TO A LIKE UNIT. IF THE SYMPTOM IS EXCESSIVE COMPARED TO A LIKE UNIT, FOLLOW NORMAL WORKSHOP MANUAL PROCEDURES TO FURTHER DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE.

EFFECTIVE DATE: 08/16/2007

That's what I love about Ford's TSB's. EXCUSE ME? HELLO? Are there any GT500 automatics? NO. Then why don't you just say that "some 2007-2008 GT500 may exhibit...." :waiting:

 

Dumb bunnies. :banghead::hysterical:

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First off, Happy New Year to all here. Been enjoying my '08 Vapor coupe and havent had much of a chance to post here of late.

 

I have a quick question on my clutch. I am finally getting used to the action now. I have driven many stick cars, but this one seems to be the most finicky. During the first few weeks I owned the car, I killed it almost every time I drove it. Seems I couldnt get used to it releasing all the way at the top. But now I am getting a bit better.

 

But every now and then when I release the clutch, the car shudders miserably. The whole car shakes until I get off the gas or release the clutch. It seems like the clutch is slipping badly.I know it is a ceramic unit and the Owners manual says driving experiences can be different depending on the technique. But I am wondering should I have it checked , or is this just normal. What are you guys experiencing?

 

Love the car, and this is about the only complaint I have. So, wanted to get some advice. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Happy New Year,

Dave

 

 

DSC04485.jpg

 

I HAVE A 2008 WITH 3455 MILES ON IT AND MY EXPERIENCE IS EXACTLY THE SAME AS YOURS.

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What's everyone's experience with regard to rpm when going from stop to start and clutch chatter? It seems to me that at about 2000 to 2300 rpm, you get a nice clutch engagement, no chatter, and it sure won't stall. Much less than about 1500 rpm, you either end up stalling, or you get that wonderful clutch chatter. Appreciate comments.

 

Thanks

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What's everyone's experience with regard to rpm when going from stop to start and clutch chatter? It seems to me that at about 2000 to 2300 rpm, you get a nice clutch engagement, no chatter, and it sure won't stall. Much less than about 1500 rpm, you either end up stalling, or you get that wonderful clutch chatter. Appreciate comments.

 

Thanks

Frank,

 

Good to see you around again, still need to go for a cruise together!

 

I don't know about the rest of these guys....but the slower I release the clutch the MORE shudder I get. I usually blip the throttle up to about 1800rpm (do it more by sound than anything) and smoothly but QUICKLY release the clutch so that it engages in the middle of the rpm upswing and about when it is engaging I let back off the throttle and then proceed as normal.

 

You can't BABY these clutches; that's not how they were designed!

 

Give a buzz when we get a warm sunny weekend, eh?

 

sprint200

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  • 10 months later...

sorry to dig up an old post, but does anyone (Grabber?) know if the TSB takes care of the shudder? I only put about 50miles a month on my 2008 (built Mar 2008) so I only have about 300miles total. So far, no hiss or problems getting it into gear, but I do get the shudder when releasing the clutch.

 

If you have an Oasis report run on your vehicle, this is one of the things that will pop up:

 

19922 2007-2008 MUSTANG SHELBY GT500 - CLUTCH CHATTER

SOME 2007 - 2008 SHELBY GT500 MUSTANGS EQUIPPED WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION MAY EXHIBIT A "CLUTCH CHATTER" DURING INITIAL TAKE-OFF OF THE VEHICLE WHEN THE TRANSMISSION IS HOT. THE CLUTCH CHATTER MAY BE PRESENT IN 1ST AND/OR REVERSE GEARS AND IS CONSIDERED A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC CAUSED BY THE CERAMETALIC CLUTCH LINING. THE CLUTCH CHATTER HAS NO EFFECT ON THE PERFORMANCE OR DURABILITY OF THE VEHICLE. COMPARE TO A LIKE UNIT. IF THE SYMPTOM IS EXCESSIVE COMPARED TO A LIKE UNIT, FOLLOW NORMAL WORKSHOP MANUAL PROCEDURES TO FURTHER DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE.

EFFECTIVE DATE: 08/16/2007

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:censored:

A low,slow release is best, but difficult in traffic. This is my 38th hot rod and the worst clutch.
I agree even after the tsb- If my car was a daily driver it would be gone! I also have owned a lot of fast stick cars but this one has a problem. I have no problem being agreesive with the clutch and that is not an issue- It is coming up with a consistent launch at lights- if I do the same thing ten times it will chatter at least four of the ten- Normal stick driving involves keeping your foot off the clutch with the car in neutral and when the light changes push the clutch in and enter first and make a nice normal start - not likely with this setup- on the track or under fast takeoffs no problem- I am to the point where I get disgusted with the clutch but try not to let it get me down- I doubt someone who knew how a normal clutch feels in normal driving would call this clutch system normal. Calling it a performance clutch is a way of saying drive like a drag racer and you will be fine.
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:censored:

A low,slow release is best, but difficult in traffic. This is my 38th hot rod and the worst clutch.
I agree even after the tsb- If my car was a daily driver it would be gone! I also have owned a lot of fast stick cars but this one has a problem. I have no problem being agreesive with the clutch and that is not an issue- It is coming up with a consistent launch at lights- if I do the same thing ten times it will chatter at least four of the ten- Normal stick driving involves keeping your foot off the clutch with the car in neutral and when the light changes push the clutch in and enter first and make a nice normal start - not likely with this setup- on the track or under fast takeoffs no problem- I am to the point where I get disgusted with the clutch but try not to let it get me down- I doubt someone who knew how a normal clutch feels in normal driving would call this clutch system normal. Calling it a performance clutch is a way of saying drive like a drag racer and you will be fine.
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