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Wheel hop loss of traction


bilhannah

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I just purchased a new 2007 shelby Gt500 and have experienced severe wheel hop and would like to know if there are any quick fixes or what is the next step to tame this beast on take off. You can e-mail me direct to Bilhannah@aol.com or call 216.496.3330

 

 

Welcome Bill. I'll save you some grief. See that little box on the top, right that says SEARCH. Go up there and type in "wheel hop". That'll keep you busy for a VERY long time.

 

Happy holidays.

 

bj

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I just purchased a new 2007 shelby Gt500 and have experienced severe wheel hop and would like to know if there are any quick fixes or what is the next step to tame this beast on take off. You can e-mail me direct to Bilhannah@aol.com or call 216.496.3330

The wheel hop is easily rendered by replacing some times one or a combination of rear suspension parts. Some have replaced rear springs and noticed improvement and some only the lower control arms and some only the upper (third link) and some both. Coil over shocks with a heavier spring. There are plenty of after market companies who sell various suspension upgrades and combinations of parts. There have been failures with one particular company. Annoying clunking issues with a couple another's. There are several different bushing types for these control arms and other suspension mods available that make improvements but are only required for extreme racing use but they will gladly sell you them and take your money. Do not jump to a set up until you do a lot of reading of previous threads. (start back a few months) visit the vender's web pages and read up on the physics of how the rear end works and reacts under different situations. Trust me it will take you a lot longer to do your research than it will to finally bolt on the parts you decided to buy. Better get some glasses.

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Lower control arms will PROBABLY do the trick, but lowers and upper will DEFINITELY do it. However, the upper control arms cause a CLUNK sound. If you just do the lowers, it will ride completely like stock without hop for the most part. The clunk is better than the hop, but I haven't heard of an aftermarket upper that doesn't clunk.

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I just purchased a new 2007 shelby Gt500 and have experienced severe wheel hop and would like to know if there are any quick fixes or what is the next step to tame this beast on take off. You can e-mail me direct to Bilhannah@aol.com or call 216.496.3330

I bought the Steeda,"Stop The Hop Kit" had it installed a few weeks ago. This did correct the problem, I can now, smoke the tires, with out the wheel hop. Total cost was around $500. It does ride a little stiffer. I am also old school, you can't have a 500hp car, without being able to lay some rubber!

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Duh, thanks alot, I'm a old man. I'll be very busy

 

You're breakin' my heart. My AARP card is on parchement paper....and written in Roman numerals.

:banghead:

 

bj

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I bought the J & M upper and lower control arms, no clunking at all, priced right, zero wheel hop, great quality with the best design IMO. hotpart.com

 

Did you also purchase the anit-clunk bushing? I too like the design. How long did it take you to install? Did you install the adjustable UCA? Did / do you have any concerns about pinion angle with the install?

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Did you also purchase the anit-clunk bushing? I too like the design. How long did it take you to install? Did you install the adjustable UCA? Did / do you have any concerns about pinion angle with the install?

The anti-clunk bushings come with the UCA. The lowers can be done in an hour or so, upper takes about twice as long. I installed the UCA and the pinion angle is the same as stock. Unless you plane on lowering your car more than an inch or so, I wouldn't worry about an adjustable anything, just my opinion.

There is lots of after market control arms, J & M's got to the punch with their design. I had BMR's and like them, like Steeda's too, like J & M the best and the price is fair.

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Drive line Shutter is the Cause of the Wheel hop. Replace the Stock Drive Shaft with a one piece unit. That cures 99% of the

Wheel Hop. It cost more but you have to fix the real problem.

Your the first person I've heard say the stock drive shaft is causing 99% of the wheel hop. Did you change your DS first, and why did you change your lower control arms? I don't agree that the stock DS is causing wheel hop. I know that an improperly designed DS causes vibration at high speeds, never heard of one causing wheel hop.

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The one piece DS was the First mod I bought. It sat around my shop about a month before I installed it. I Installed it with my Stage 4 Engine Kit from Evo. That just happened to be a good time. I knew I would be installing a new Axle at some point so I waited until then to install the U&LCAs. I've heard of a couple of bent Stock LCAs from launching that's why I put the Steedas on. I want to save the originals.

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Drive line Shutter is the Cause of the Wheel hop. Replace the Stock Drive Shaft with a one piece unit. That cures 99% of the

Wheel Hop. It cost more but you have to fix the real problem.

that doesn't make sense to me. The DS is not a fixed part. The front yoke slides slightly in the tranny...which means it would not flex but rather slide one way or the other. Please explain.

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I don't know about your DS but my stock DS has a Mounting Flange on Both Ends and Slip Joint behind the Center/Carrier Bearing. The Center/Carrier bearing is housed in a Rubber Bushing. The rear end of the stock DS has a "plastic/Rubber" compound sandwiched in it also. It's made to Flex. 500hp and Good traction does just that.

 

My MCP DS has a Flange on both ends with a Slip Joint at the Front end.

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I don't know about your DS but my stock DS has a Mounting Flange on Both Ends and Slip Joint behind the Center/Carrier Bearing. The Center/Carrier bearing is housed in a Rubber Bushing. The rear end of the stock DS has a "plastic/Rubber" compound sandwiched in it also. It's made to Flex. 500hp and Good traction does just that.

 

My MCP DS has a Flange on both ends with a Slip Joint at the Front end.

Yours is no different than any S197.

 

Edit: I don't know of a single GT500 that eliminated wheel hop by changing to a one piece DS. Pure BS.

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I've read your posts. If a one piece DS fixed your wheel hop that's great. I respect everyones right to an opinion.

 

 

Just because you never talked to anyone that installed a one piece DS before any suspension mods doesn’t make my observations “Opinions”.

Most people Try to go the Cheapest route when correcting a problem. That’s why U&LCAs were/are some of the first mods people have installed on their cars to try to control Wheel Hop. I never said U&LCAs wouldn’t help Wheel Hop. If U&LCAs do help, they help.

 

I have installed all the Mods on my car MySelf including the Rear Axle, BY MY SELF. I have over 10,000 miles on my Car. I have the real world experience with the car.

 

Calling Someone’s real world Observations BS when it appears like you personally haven’t had any mods done (by you or anyone else) to your car, is the real BS. It looks like you have only read on the internet or in magazines what others have done and you are just repeating that. I guess that’s what should be called an “Internet Wrencher”!!

 

You don't list any mods.

Do you Have any, if so Who installed them?

 

I’ve got to be honest with you here. If the Group Buy DS wouldn’t have came about. I would have installed the U&LCAs first. That doesn’t mean I think the U&LCAs are the best solution to Wheel Hop. I would have done it because that’s what I read on the Internet!!

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Just because you never talked to anyone that installed a one piece DS before any suspension mods doesn’t make my observations “Opinions”.

Most people Try to go the Cheapest route when correcting a problem. That’s why U&LCAs were/are some of the first mods people have installed on their cars to try to control Wheel Hop. I never said U&LCAs wouldn’t help Wheel Hop. If U&LCAs do help, they help.

 

I have installed all the Mods on my car MySelf including the Rear Axle, BY MY SELF. I have over 10,000 miles on my Car. I have the real world experience with the car.

 

Calling Someone’s real world Observations BS when it appears like you personally haven’t had any mods done (by you or anyone else) to your car, is the real BS. It looks like you have only read on the internet or in magazines what others have done and you are just repeating that. I guess that’s what should be called an “Internet Wrencher”!!

 

You don't list any mods.

Do you Have any, if so Who installed them?

 

I’ve got to be honest with you here. If the Group Buy DS wouldn’t have came about. I would have installed the U&LCAs first. That doesn’t mean I think the U&LCAs are the best solution to Wheel Hop. I would have done it because that’s what I read on the Internet!!

No hard feelings over a disagreement. I have done all my own mods except for the TorsenT2R and 3:73's. I don't list mods, my choice. I should have been a little more careful about expressing my thoughts on the one piece DS curing wheel hop. First time I've been called an "Internet wencher". I apologize for calling you observations BS.

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Do you have the steeda UCA with all poly bushings with the stepped spacers to get rid of the clunk? I am curious if that set up with the stock UCA mount still makes too much noise? What noise are you hearing, I really cant picture any more noise than now, is it under normal driving conditions, extreme use?

Are there any videos of this "noise," I think if you have the "clunk" you can fix that with the spacers to fill in the 16mm hole that has a 14mm bolt.

 

I plan on doing the ds just going to be doing control arms first for warranty issues and well, I would need an adjustable UCA anyway to adjust pinion angle, since you got to do that when you swap to a one peice ds especially when lowered, so I feel that both mods are inevidible

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Do you have the steeda UCA with all poly bushings with the stepped spacers to get rid of the clunk? I am curious if that set up with the stock UCA mount still makes too much noise? What noise are you hearing, I really cant picture any more noise than now, is it under normal driving conditions, extreme use?

Are there any videos of this "noise," I think if you have the "clunk" you can fix that with the spacers to fill in the 16mm hole that has a 14mm bolt.

 

I plan on doing the ds just going to be doing control arms first for warranty issues and well, I would need an adjustable UCA anyway to adjust pinion angle, since you got to do that when you swap to a one peice ds especially when lowered, so I feel that both mods are inevidible

 

 

Chuck,

 

BMR uses an SAE hole and a metric bolt. Spacers will fail. Here are your options if you wan to use a BMR upper. One, you can use your stock mount and their adjustable link. Or, you can used a Grade 8 or better 1/2" bolt in place of the metric and use their mount. 130-135 ft lbs torque. This is according to Lee at BMR

 

 

bj

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thanks venomous but Im going to use Steeda parts, seems like too many bad poly bushings still getting sent out by BMR. I havent heard really any negatives for the Steeda stuff. I do plan on using the stock UCA mount regardless of brand, I just don't see the need for one since I will not be throwing slicks on the car launching at 5k

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