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I'm hearing something strange in the distance.....


moabman

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Thanks msmap. I enjoyed reading your report about the Chicken Oil Co. run. Too bad it is only once a year. I have heard that a great road to drive is the College Station to Caldwell highway and that there is a little roadside restaurant that sells the State's best breakfast tacos. I'll check it out the next time I'm in College Station.

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Thanks Ruf. I'll be running the JDM tune which should give me about 475 at the crank. I'm thinking that I'll have around 420 at the wheels which is plenty for me :happy feet:

 

That thing is heavy and lifting it over the engine was not fun. I learned that I make a very poor crane :hysterical2: We dropped a intake bolt under it and had to lift it up again. You only make that mistake once!

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:hysterical2:

 

My Ford tech has a contraption that lets him lay on his stomach over the engine while he's working. Sort of like an engine hoist but with a padded chest brace!

 

Man - it's killin' me over here waiting to hear how you feel about how it drives! :happy feet:

 

You might have already said this - but how much boost?

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When you are ready to race, you know where I live. Just kidding. Sounds like I have some competition in the neighborhood now.

 

:hysterical2:

 

Don't think so! I would need to find another 25 hp to just get to where you started :happy feet:

 

I can hardly wait to start it. :happy feet:

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No starty because no havy a critical part of the CAI. I also have to flash the supercharger tune. Got the battery back in tonight and spent 30 minutes trying to burp the intercooler. The SCT XCal2 I got from JDM only has a "street" tune on it so I have to call tomorrow and see if that's what they call the supecharger tune. I'm also going to see where that part is :waiting:

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How about some pics?

 

Here is a before picture. Not very special - Just a FRPP CAI with Steeda inlet tube and FRPP strut tower brace

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Here are most of the parts in my "clean room" assembly area :hysterical: The supercharger is sitting upside down and you can see the Lysholm twin screw case. The intake runners are long compared to the Whipple and you can see the light green intake gaskets where the mount on the head. You can also see the new blue 39 lb. injectors installed in the fuel rail. Finding and keeping track of all of the parts was not easy.

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Another of the parts. You can see the new pulley has not been installed yet.

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The valley of dispair. I wonder if I remembered to remove those pliers :headspin: Notice the Sharpie squiggles on the clear tape covering the intakes; didn't want to forget to remove it!

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Ahhh - this looks better - 8 hours later. Notice the worlds largest intercooler reservoir in the foreground :hysterical2:

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The alternator gets moved and turned around so the wires had to be spliced. The metal thingy below and to the right has 5 hoses going in and out and also contains the thermostat.

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The intercooler radiator sits in front of the radiator and is attached to the front bumper support frame. 07s come with the holes drilled but without bolts or studs. I could never find the ones that were supposed to come with the kit so the ones you see came from the auto parts store

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No more strut tower brace! This system sits up high but has a low center of gravity because the heavy blower sits below the intake and intercooler.

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Now if that CAI part would just come in! :waiting:

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Oh Mark!!! Is that gonna be fun!!!!

 

:woohoo: ...waiting on the CAI part must be driving you nuts at this point.

 

Very cool! Looks really nice ...and stealthy too ..S/C? What S/C? :hysterical:

 

Thanks for the great pics!

 

That 5-hose deal must be two rad-in, rad-out, left & rt banks and thermo bypass? Interesting arrangement. Surprised they didn't give a harness plug-in for the alternator relo ...seems tacky on a quality kit (like Saleen) to make you splice into a factory harness :nonono: Oh, well -- the results are all worth it - big TORQUE!!!

 

Can't wait to hear your driving impressions ;-)

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Thanks Dan!

 

I made a mistake - it only has 4 hoses - large from the head water cross over, large to the block, large to the lower radiator, small to the reservoir. They have alignment arrows and they want you to assemble it before installing it. It looked like an octopus :hysterical:

 

Yea I was bummed about splicing into the alternator loom - never a good choice. One interesting thing is the change in the inlet air temperature measurement point. It's done at the MAF sensor on stock cars. Saleen sensibly put one on the inlet after the intercooler because it could vary. You can see that in the picture taken of the drivers side view. The MAF harness has two wires that get redirected to the new sensor.

 

Now, where is that part :banghead:

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Thanks Dan!

 

I made a mistake - it only has 4 hoses - large from the head water cross over, large to the block, large to the lower radiator, small to the reservoir. They have alignment arrows and they want you to assemble it before installing it. It looked like an octopus :hysterical:

 

Yea I was bummed about splicing into the alternator loom - never a good choice. One interesting thing is the change in the inlet air temperature measurement point. It's done at the MAF sensor on stock cars. Saleen sensibly put one on the inlet after the intercooler because it could vary. You can see that in the picture taken of the drivers side view. The MAF harness has two wires that get redirected to the new sensor.

 

Now, where is that part :banghead:

 

Ah, the the H2O crossover is reatained ...makes sense.

 

Yeah, they have to use temp after the IC... using intake temp would be a real problem ...so they use the added sensor (after the IC) and redirect the existing wires to it (and a lot of reprogramming in the tune, I'm sure) ... cool!

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Thanks Ruf

 

Guess I shouldn't tell you about the stud I snapped off in the left cylinder head against the firewall :banghead: Despair, depression, panic, more despair, finally inspiration :happy feet:

 

Rule 1 - Lots of aluminum and fasteners designed to work with aluminum - easy on the torque big fella......

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4 hours on Sunday but no luck. There is only 3 - 3.5 inches between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall. I finally drilled the hole with a Dremel and a right angle attachment. The bit wondered down to the threads and I just couldn't get it to work. Another threaded hole not too far away saved the day.

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Looking back on it, I could have gotten the extractor to work if I had taken the time to dress off the head of the broken stud so the bit would not have wandered while I was drilling. Or I could have removed the head and it would have been a snap (the extraction) but that would have been a PIA.

 

You better believe that I'm careful with the torque now even on those fasteners that don't call for a specific torque. :happy feet:

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