underdrive pulley install

[hednjury]

I have the steeda underdrive pulley set, and was wondering from those who have installed how did you get the the pulley bolt loosened. No room for my impact to work, so I was trying to think of a way to hold the crank pulley. Would a strap or chain wrench (with and old belt wrapped around to prevent damage) work to hold it from turning, or does someone have an idea I'm not thinking of. I tried with the car in gear, but didn't want to crank on it too much. It just didn't feel right.

[Niswonger]

What about putting the car in first gear. Dout you can impart enough force on the crank to move the car.

[07SHELBY GT]

What about putting the car in first gear. Dout you can impart enough force on the crank to move the car.

Same here try first gear and parking break and breaker bar,Just be careful because doing so will create a spring like effect if you let go of the breaker bar suddenly,NOT GOOD!

[Super Snake]

[TheKurgan]

Put this on today and learned a couple tricks doing so too. It's a really easy install if you read a few of the guides on the internet. They are very accurate for the most part.

 

You can utilize AutoZone's load a tool program and get the puller. Be sure to ask for the "Chysler Harmonic Balancer Puller". It fits the stock 05-08 GT perfectly and comes off really smooth. I found a good way to get the crank bolt to fit perfectly in the center of the washer before installing by using a pony tail holder!

 

I did not need the help of an impact gun to get the old crank bolt off. The breaker bar from underneath the car worked fine for me. The engine will spin a little bit, but it will bite and get to a point where it won't turn anymore.

 

 

The old crankshaft pulley was about the only rusty part of the engine so replacing it makes it look much better. Only had to remove the CAI arm to get to it. I torqued it from underneath the car though because laying on your back, you can get the leverage and feel you need to torque. It's hard to get a good feel on the torque wrench from the top of the car unless you unclamp the 2 radiator hoses out of the way which I didn't want to have to deal with the anti-freeze.

 

My only regret is I wish I would of went ahead and got a brand new crank bolt instead of using the old one like most instructions say. I buggered up the head of the bolt a little bit taking it off/putting it back on, but hopefully I'll never have to replace it until an engine rebuild is needed. I could feel the difference in throttle response as soon as I started the engine. A good little pepper upper for $200. Keep those OEM parts!!!

 

http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/Pulleys.htm

 

This guy removed a whole bunch of stuff that I didn't, but I think overall his ideas are good. If I ever had to do it again, I think I might remove that stuff just because it does make it easier to work if the radiator, hoses are not in the way.

 

http://mustangforums.com/m_3296654/tm.htm

 

 

[hotrodbob]

Put this on today and learned a couple tricks doing so too. It's a really easy install if you read a few of the guides on the internet. They are very accurate for the most part.

 

You can utilize AutoZone's load a tool program and get the puller. Be sure to ask for the "Chysler Harmonic Balancer Puller". It fits the stock 05-08 GT perfectly and comes off really smooth. I found a good way to get the crank bolt to fit perfectly in the center of the washer before installing by using a pony tail holder!

 

I did not need the help of an impact gun to get the old crank bolt off. The breaker bar from underneath the car worked fine for me. The engine will spin a little bit, but it will bite and get to a point where it won't turn anymore.

 

 

The old crankshaft pulley was about the only rusty part of the engine so replacing it makes it look much better. Only had to remove the CAI arm to get to it. I torqued it from underneath the car though because laying on your back, you can get the leverage and feel you need to torque. It's hard to get a good feel on the torque wrench from the top of the car unless you unclamp the 2 radiator hoses out of the way which I didn't want to have to deal with the anti-freeze.

 

My only regret is I wish I would of went ahead and got a brand new crank bolt instead of using the old one like most instructions say. I buggered up the head of the bolt a little bit taking it off/putting it back on, but hopefully I'll never have to replace it until an engine rebuild is needed. I could feel the difference in throttle response as soon as I started the engine. A good little pepper upper for $200. Keep those OEM parts!!!

 

http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/Pulleys.htm

 

This guy removed a whole bunch of stuff that I didn't, but I think overall his ideas are good. If I ever had to do it again, I think I might remove that stuff just because it does make it easier to work if the radiator, hoses are not in the way.

 

http://mustangforums.com/m_3296654/tm.htm

 

 

 

 

When I did mine I removed the fan did not take long and gave me the room I needed. I could use an impact wrench then. It took me maybe a total of hour if that much. Yes there was a difference in the car. Put a new bolt from ford on it too.