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Shelby Billet Hood Pin Install


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For those who are looking to install the billet "Shelby" Hood Pins on a CS6/8 hood I decided to tackle the project this evening. It is NOT as easy as you may think. I am not a master mechanic but I have completed a couple of "nut and bolt" restorations on some early Mustangs. I am aware of many who have installed this kit with the stock aluminum hood with little or no difficulty. With the Fiberglass CS6/8 hood I suggest you borrow or purhase a "Dremel" or similar tool. You will need it.

 

With 2 layers of fiberglass you will need to enlarge both the bottom and top holes drilled from SAI. Seeing as how the kit comes with 2 new mounting brackets and the factory installed brackets and pins had rust forming I decided to change out all of the parts. Here is what I found on the install:

 

1. The hood pins must be set at a higher height due to the top plate thickness

2. The hood is 2 layers both holes drilled from SAI must be enlarged to accomodate movement and adjustment

3. There is very LITTLE room after the pins are insatlled for adjustment. They must be installed "right on"

4. Due to the natural slope of the hood visual checking does not work. It's really opening and closing the hood many times and tweaking until straight.

5. Tools you will need are: drill with bit to drill the pop rivet from the lanyards, 2 pop rivets, pop rivet gun, dremel with a 120 grit sanding band, small screwdriver

and adjustable wrench for the pin nuts, philips head screwdriver.

6. Use a pair of needle nose plyers to hold the bottom the the rivet when drilling, it will spin.

 

With time and patience they look very great. Pics to follow.

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  • 2 weeks later...
For those who are looking to install the billet "Shelby" Hood Pins on a CS6/8 hood I decided to tackle the project this evening. It is NOT as easy as you may think. I am not a master mechanic but I have completed a couple of "nut and bolt" restorations on some early Mustangs. I am aware of many who have installed this kit with the stock aluminum hood with little or no difficulty. With the Fiberglass CS6/8 hood I suggest you borrow or purhase a "Dremel" or similar tool. You will need it.

 

With 2 layers of fiberglass you will need to enlarge both the bottom and top holes drilled from SAI. Seeing as how the kit comes with 2 new mounting brackets and the factory installed brackets and pins had rust forming I decided to change out all of the parts. Here is what I found on the install:

 

1. The hood pins must be set at a higher height due to the top plate thickness

2. The hood is 2 layers both holes drilled from SAI must be enlarged to accomodate movement and adjustment

3. There is very LITTLE room after the pins are insatlled for adjustment. They must be installed "right on"

4. Due to the natural slope of the hood visual checking does not work. It's really opening and closing the hood many times and tweaking until straight.

5. Tools you will need are: drill with bit to drill the pop rivet from the lanyards, 2 pop rivets, pop rivet gun, dremel with a 120 grit sanding band, small screwdriver

and adjustable wrench for the pin nuts, philips head screwdriver.

6. Use a pair of needle nose plyers to hold the bottom the the rivet when drilling, it will spin.

 

With time and patience they look very great. Pics to follow.

 

I had the same experience installing mine. While its quite doable and they look great when done its not as easy as you would think.

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They are simple on the SGT. I just changed the stainless plates with the aluminum ones. I didnt change the brackets or wires or even the pins. I just made the pins stick up 1/2 more than they were. It took all of 10 minutes. Ill just save the extra pins and wires for down the road.

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They are simple on the SGT. I just changed the stainless plates with the aluminum ones. I didnt change the brackets or wires or even the pins. I just made the pins stick up 1/2 more than they were. It took all of 10 minutes. Ill just save the extra pins and wires for down the road.

 

I would highly recommend the billet pins, my stockers were already rusting around the threads. I had to open up the holes on the first layer of sheet metal to get mine to fit properly. Just depends on how your hood was cut, these aren't nice factory holes.

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I would highly recommend the billet pins, my stockers were already rusting around the threads. I had to open up the holes on the first layer of sheet metal to get mine to fit properly. Just depends on how your hood was cut, these aren't nice factory holes.

Mine had just a touch or surface rust, nothing to worry too much about. plus I still have the billets for down the road

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