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Car Wax, Polish


old guy

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OK, I have to admit, the Volvo gets professionally detailed a couple times a year and finds its way to the car wash every couple of months. Same with the T-bird. I haven't waxed a car in several years, but this is gonna be different! Technology of paint and polish has come a long way since I last did the "wax on - wax off" routine. What do/will you use to clean your car (Mustang or other?)

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OK, I have to admit, the Volvo gets professionally detailed a couple times a year and finds its way to the car wash every couple of months. Same with the T-bird. I haven't waxed a car in several years, but this is gonna be different! Technology of paint and polish has come a long way since I last did the "wax on - wax off" routine. What do/will you use to clean your car (Mustang or other?)

 

 

 

Well, I consider myself Mr.Detailer with all my toys, actually, I have a cleaning sickness. I only love and use two brands, not the cheapest on the shelf but I consider the best. Mother's or Mcquiers. Period

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I've been using *only* Meguiars Gold Class for years with excellent results. While I use it on all three cars, it was hard for me to find a wax that really worked on my GT (it's a VERY dark shade of green). I've done all sorts of experimenting, and while I want to try Zaino eventually, Meguiar's does a great job, and is readily available. :)

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Guest evilchris

I've been using *only* Meguiars Gold Class for years with excellent results. While I use it on all three cars, it was hard for me to find a wax that really worked on my GT (it's a VERY dark shade of green). I've done all sorts of experimenting, and while I want to try Zaino eventually, Meguiar's does a great job, and is readily available. :)

 

 

Zaino will be the last brand you'll ever use. It's the best, especially on darker colors.

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Zaino will be the last brand you'll ever use. It's the best, especially on darker colors.

 

 

That's what I've been told. It's definitely on my list for this summer, and I'm confident it'll be worth the investment. I saw a TON of before/after pics on another forum, and that was pretty much the convincing I needed.

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I have my own method and we will have lots of opinions, but two things come to mind. 1. When the car is a couple of months old, do your research and find a REALLY good bodyshop and get the car "cut polished" That is the color sanding/multiple stage polish that gets the nasty orange peel out of the paint. It levels and smooths the paint and puts that sun/shadow gleam on it. I do this myself, but it does take practice and guts and yes skill. It may cost a couple hun but in the long run NOTHING(other than my next suggestion) will make your car look better. And you will not have to do it again as you now have a near perfect base to work on. I submit that most of the wax's and polishes available now are quite good and if you have a good base they will all look good applied twice a year. To me however the best thing to do is WASH the car. OFTEN. With a LOT of fresh water. Even if the car is only driven on nice days, it will pick up dust etc. just due to static if nothing else. Wash it with a wand(no touch) once a week(or so) and dry it with a good used cotton towel, using lots of rinse water and you can't go wrong. I budget $7 a week to wash the car and it still stops pedestrian traffic after 10 years. And I drive it in the -40C winter. And slush. Sorry for the long one but this works. :rockon:

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I have been using Zaino Brothers waxes and sealers since 2001. This is the best and easiest wax I have ever used.

 

My drag boat has a custom House of Kolor paint job and has ONLY seen zaino waxes on it. It is easy to use, lasts a long time - even sitting in the sun on a boat, and SHINES! Slick stuff - I have slipped off the deck a couple of times, LOL.

 

I use it on all my cars and bikes.

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I've used Zaino Bros before. At times it was very easy, other times it was a bear. I have to admit, the results were great, especially on dark vehicles.

 

A couple years ago I tried Adam's Polishes. Find it here .

 

I know I'm probably setting myself up for abuse from the Zaino loyalists, but I've found Adam's to give the same results, while being easier to use.

 

I will clay bar the GT500 on day one, and every 6 months there after. Personally, I think it's the best preventive maintenance for a vehicle finish. That and a large California Duster.

 

I will also try something new, thanks to Jetsolver. I will have this car "cut polished". I wish I had the guts to do it myself, but I know a local shop that has an outstanding reputation with the restoration crowd.

 

My wife thinks I'm a bit imbalanced because of how obsessed I get when detailing my ride. I can't get her to understand that I enjoy it.

 

Maybe I am a bit off. :shrug:

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ORF,

I have not used Adams before, I will check into it.

 

I have used a LOT of waxes and as much as I like the look of white carnuba waxes, they evaporate - especially in the sun. And I do not like waxes that use silicone as a shining agent. They both allow silt/dust to adhere and can scratch the finish.

 

That leaves optically clear polymers.

 

The Zaino works well. The only time it is hard to put on/take off is when the surface is not clean and smooth. I'm sure other stuff work just as well, but I have no problems with Zaino.

 

A list of good waxes/polishes is always good to have.

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I tried Mothers on my black vert after using the clay bar. Amazing results. Note the reflections.

 

Isellford... looking at the first picture, you MAY want to cut down on the donuts and switch to light beers!! :beerchug:

 

Just kiddin', of course!!

<_<

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After properly correcting paint (polishing, clay bar, etc.) Pinnacle Souvereign Wax.

 

Pure Carnuba is one of my secrets. It is hard to apply and yes pinnacle is expensive, consider this a cheap insurance policy on a large investment.
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I'm a huge fan of Griot's Garage (griotsgarage.com). I have their older style random orbital buffer (porter cable 7424). They have a newer one that I have used. It is a little nicer than mine, but, not enough to trade it. It makes the work a ton easier and uses a lot less product (it spreads it on very thin). I'll never go back to hand waxing again.

 

IF you buy the buffer kit, they throw in the detailing handbook. I follow the guidlines of it. My 8 year old truck's paint looks better than showroom new (aside from some dings and deep scratches, afterall, it is a truck that gets used like a truck).

 

I always claybar before waxing or polishing to remove the deeper grime that will cause swirls.

 

As someone said above. Most popular waxes are pretty good anymore. It is the claybar and the buffer that make the difference.

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I used a clay bar for the first time earlier this month, and I was completely blown away by how well it worked. The difference in just the feel of the paint was phenomenal. But, I have one question for Orf: Why use it on day 1? Do you really think the car will have picked up enough pollutants in transit to you to require that?

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I used a clay bar for the first time earlier this month, and I was completely blown away by how well it worked. The difference in just the feel of the paint was phenomenal. But, I have one question for Orf: Why use it on day 1? Do you really think the car will have picked up enough pollutants in transit to you to require that?

 

 

Fastbackman stole my answer, sort of.

 

The bodies are painted prior to assembly. They'll pick up grime from transport to the assembly line, from the assembly process, while sitting in the holding area waiting for transport, and from being transported to the dealer. If you've ever towed a trailer, even on a "nice" day, you'll notice road grime on whatever you towed.

 

A simple rinse with clean water won't touch most of the contaminants, which will leave swirl marks when the wash mitt does its thing. I went through the clay bar ritual with my last 3 new vehicles on the first day, and was impressed by what was lifted off the paint (or should I say clearcoat). So, from my past experiences, I know what I'll be doing on day one. Unless, of course, it happens to be raining on day one.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Okay, I checked my daytimer and today is my turn to look ignorant. I've heard of a clay bar, but am lost as to it's purpose, how to use it, caution, etc. Any help?

 

It is a real tacky glob of clay-like substance. You spray the paint with a lubricating substance like quick detailer or speed shine. Rub the bar over the paint. At first it feels gritty. After a few strokes, it becomes very smooth. The debris in the paint sticks to the bar and is lifted off the paint. It will leave the surface very clean and smooth. It also helps prevent swirl marks. As you rub in wax or polish, the debris (rail dust, etc.) gets rubbed around with it and acts like sandpaper. I always clay bar before polishing/waxing. Buy it, you'll be happy with the results and the ease of use.

 

PS - always wax after you clay bar.

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It is a real tacky glob of clay-like substance. You spray the paint with a lubricating substance like quick detailer or speed shine. Rub the bar over the paint. At first it feels gritty. After a few strokes, it becomes very smooth. The debris in the paint sticks to the bar and is lifted off the paint. It will leave the surface very clean and smooth. It also helps prevent swirl marks. As you rub in wax or polish, the debris (rail dust, etc.) gets rubbed around with it and acts like sandpaper. I always clay bar before polishing/waxing. Buy it, you'll be happy with the results and the ease of use.

 

PS - always wax after you clay bar.

 

 

 

Will it take the place of the "cut polish"? Does it remove the previous wax job?

 

Thanks.

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