Warranty claim after 160 miles

[Light66]

You need to repolace that clamp.....as the hose expands from heat, the clamp won't and it will eventualy cut your hose right at every slot on teh band. You have tow choices, use a similar clamp where the clamp gear tracks on dents in the band (not slots as you now have) and the underneath of the band is smooth or use a T-Bolt clamp with spring pre-load this is a much better choice, the spring will compress as the hose increases in OD and won't cut your hose........if you notice,the original clamps also expand under heat.

 

 

I am not familiar with a T-bolt clamp with spring pre-load. Do you have a picture to share and where they can be purchased? Thx.

[LuisA]

Light, I am on vacation....... I sell them for silicone coolant hose application.....next week I'll take a pictur and post it. This is the brand I sell: http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/wetexhaust.htm

[mustarrosa]

I had the same problem and it was a coolant leak and spewed all over the engine and a sensor leak too..Took it to the dealer and they kept it a whole day and replaced the sensor and hose...so far no more leak..

[5.4 Shelby]

I also had this prob from the get-go. I put the worm gear style on one at a time until I figured out which one was leaking. Then I took it to the dealer and had them replace with a factory clamp. No more leaks and the factory look is retained.

 

btw, mine only leaked under high pressure (boost) and high heat.

[FiaCobra]

A T-Bolt clamp like that w/o a spring preload won't expand as much as the hose and nipple and could eventualy end up cutting your hose!!!! On all cooling systems you need a clamp that can expand at the same rate as the hose it is holding against the nipple.

 

Not trying to start an argument, however, in all my years owning cars with those regular "redneck" hose clamps, i never had a hose get cut. I'm thinking, if it gets cut, the hose must have been near failure anyway or, the clamp was way too tight.

 

Ok, here's a question nobody asked yet. Is there a way to remove the factory spring clamp without removing the hose? Can it be cut off with a dremel without damage to the hose?

[Alloy Dave]

Not trying to start an argument, however, in all my years owning cars with those regular "redneck" hose clamps, i never had a hose get cut. I'm thinking, if it gets cut, the hose must have been near failure anyway or, the clamp was way too tight.

 

Ok, here's a question nobody asked yet. Is there a way to remove the factory spring clamp without removing the hose? Can it be cut off with a dremel without damage to the hose?

Yes. SCGT500 did this. PM him and he can refer you to that thread with photos.

[sharabi]

I can't believe that this is an ongoing issue and they still use the same clamps. Is it improper fitting at the assembly line or it is a quality issue with the clamps, and if it is the latter are they still using them despite this decent number of cars having same problem. Are they waiting for engine losses to replace those cheap clamps with better quality?

[Light66]

Light, I am on vacation....... I sell them for silicone coolant hose application.....next week I'll take a pictur and post it. This is the brand I sell: http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/wetexhaust.htm

 

That will be great. So far I have no issues, but I want to be proactive and place adequate camps. Enjoy the rest of your vacation.

[Dave_C]

Not trying to start an argument, however, in all my years owning cars with those regular "redneck" hose clamps, i never had a hose get cut. I'm thinking, if it gets cut, the hose must have been near failure anyway or, the clamp was way too tight.

 

Ok, here's a question nobody asked yet. Is there a way to remove the factory spring clamp without removing the hose? Can it be cut off with a dremel without damage to the hose?

 

Same here, I've never had a cut hose from the worm gear or regular T-bolt clamp. This includes many NHRA/IHRA legal drag cars over the last 20 years. I think if there were a problem with the T-bolt style like I mentioned, the NHRA would have outlawed them.

 

When I put the regular clamps on mine yesterday I removed one end of the hose a time. Pulled the end off and then elevated it. In doing all 4 clamps I only lost 16-20 oz of coolant. Refilled it with distilled water when I was done.

[stsltd]

Add one more new Shelby to the leak list - been keeping an eye on it and thought I was fine until this morning .... called dealer, they want me to have the car towed in, at their expense to avoid a potential failure on the way in - guess I will take them up on it but my first inclination is to just order a full set of heavy duty stainless clamps and change them all out...not quite the club I planned on joining - Leaking Shelbys.....

[sharabi]

Add one more new Shelby to the leak list - been keeping an eye on it and thought I was fine until this morning .... called dealer, they want me to have the car towed in, at their expense to avoid a potential failure on the way in - guess I will take them up on it but my first inclination is to just order a full set of heavy duty stainless clamps and change them all out...not quite the club I planned on joining - Leaking Shelbys.....

I think it would be good idea to have a new thread that documents those incidents in a professional way that would be business only and not to be derailed, similar to a thread i have seen before about tranny issue posted by Orf. It could be called Leaking Shelbys.

http://www.stangsunleashed.com/forums/inde...c=12946&hl=

that way we can document and see if ford should have a recall and get the problem fixed once for all.

i do not want to have a problem while am driving with a sudden leak in antifreeze from cheap clamps, and i guess no one does.

[FiaCobra]

LOL, add me to the list fellas !!

 

Took my brother for his 1st ride yesterday and while running it through the gears he said "Hey, some water just came out of the hood vent and hit the windshield. We pulled over and lo and behold, a small squirt of antifreeze hit the passenger side valve cover and deflected through the vent. Looks like i'll be doing this clamp change sooner than i thought.

[sharabi]

LOL, add me to the list fellas !!

 

Took my brother for his 1st ride yesterday and while running it through the gears he said "Hey, some water just came out of the hood vent and hit the windshield. We pulled over and lo and behold, a small squirt of antifreeze hit the passenger side valve cover and deflected through the vent. Looks like i'll be doing this clamp change sooner than i thought.

 

I came across this photo of a nice looking screw clamps on the left side of the photo...i still would like a solution from FORD we deserve that much.

[sharabi]

LOL, add me to the list fellas !!

 

Took my brother for his 1st ride yesterday and while running it through the gears he said "Hey, some water just came out of the hood vent and hit the windshield. We pulled over and lo and behold, a small squirt of antifreeze hit the passenger side valve cover and deflected through the vent. Looks like i'll be doing this clamp change sooner than i thought.

 

How many miles on your gt500 if i may ask?

[FiaCobra]

How many miles on your gt500 if i may ask?

 

I now have 359 miles

[sharabi]

Glad you found the cause and I will keep an eye on mine now. Thanks. Joker your right freon is a gas but in my experiance with a fast leak it can create a clear oil like fluid that is what steelsteeds was talking about.

 

I think antifreeze glows to wood light or black light and it is a way to tell if there is a leak and where it is coming from.

[TexasShelby]

Totally Stainless has 100% stainless, marine grade clamps at a reasonable price. Marine grade clamps even have a stainless screw assembly, unlike the common auto parts store type which only have a stainless band.

Got a source?

 

7000 miles + and thankfully no leaks

[DubbsFaris]

I have already told my dealer to replace all 8 of those clamps next week....Im taking the car as is for a week to get my PSDS out of my system. Ill just wait till our next rainy day, and take it in the day before and leave it...I have to have the homelink mirror and HD module installed anyway, oh yeah and the rollbar(lightbar)

[sharabi]

I have already told my dealer to replace all 8 of those clamps next week....Im taking the car as is for a week to get my PSDS out of my system. Ill just wait till our next rainy day, and take it in the day before and leave it...I have to have the homelink mirror and HD module installed anyway, oh yeah and the rollbar(lightbar)

 

are they replaced under warranty, if not how much would the dealer charges for, and what is the brand of the replacement clamps?

[sharabi]

Not trying to start an argument, however, in all my years owning cars with those regular "redneck" hose clamps, i never had a hose get cut. I'm thinking, if it gets cut, the hose must have been near failure anyway or, the clamp was way too tight.

 

Ok, here's a question nobody asked yet. Is there a way to remove the factory spring clamp without removing the hose? Can it be cut off with a dremel without damage to the hose?

 

http://www.stangsunleashed.com/forums/inde...p;hl=hose+clamp

[Dennis70Mach]

Add one more to the anti-freeze leak list. Yesterday was the first nice day around here in a couple of months. Took the car out gave it some gas on the highway (supercharger boost gauge moved for the first time - WOW), got it home popped the hood and there was a spray of anti-freeze on the valve cover next to the oil fill cap. It's clear it was coming from the nearest hose clamp of the twin hoses right next to the oil fill cap. I know that there has been a lot of discussion about this on the site (yes Joe I searched the topic!!), however I have a question. Practically every hose carrying coolant around the engine has the !@# spring clamps. Should I just have the dealer replace the clamp that's leaking, all of the clamps on these two hoses or ALL clamps on every hose that's carrying coolant? I think I'm going to demand the screw type clamps (I may order all stainless clamps) instead of the original factory clamps. What's everybody's thoughts.

 

Forgot to add that the car has 119 miles on it. Geesh!!

[walc]

My car leaked so much coolant, at 26 miles total, that the temp gauge redlined and it went into limp-home mode.

You guessed it! Clamp was loose.

[Leroy]

My car leaked so much coolant, at 26 miles total, that the temp gauge redlined and it went into limp-home mode.

You guessed it! Clamp was loose.

 

FWIW Ford is calling back all the old clamps and engineering is invesigating concern

 

Leroy

[walc]

FWIW Ford is calling back all the old clamps and engineering is invesigating concern

 

Leroy

 

That sounds like a good idea.

As far as I know, 2 weeks ago, all my dealer did was replace the clamp that blew off and tightened the others.

[6-Speed]

That sounds like a good idea.

As far as I know, 2 weeks ago, all my dealer did was replace the clamp that blew off and tightened the others.

I was not aware that you can tighten the type of hose clamps that come on our cars.

[walc]

I was not aware that you can tighten the type of hose clamps that come on our cars.

 

Good point!

I guess they just checked them?

In any event, my car is running fine 500 miles later.

[phr3121]

It is not just about the clamp!

 

How coolant hose leaks occur:

Why does a coolant hose connection leak after you've tightened a conventional clamp? After all, the clamp itself doesn't loosen.

What happens is this:

Both the hose neck and the hose expand when the coolant warms up. The clamp, however, is relatively unchanged, so it squeezes the rubber underneath even more, and this causes the rubber to become permanently compressed, which is called a set. When the engine cools, the neck contracts more than the hose. Many hose materials become virtually glued to the neck, so a seal is maintained. Others do not. In fact, silicone is almost immune to sealing. That makes the silicone hose easy to replace, but it is the most prone to cold coolant leakage. Always install the clamp next to, but not overlapping, the raised bead on the fitting to keep from trapping a bubble of coolant in the void space inboard of the bead.

 

One of the fundamental goals of most hose clamps is to ensure a tight seal between the hose and the barb, preventing the working fluid from escaping. To this goal, they are designed to provide even pressure on all sides, with no gaps. An example of this would be wire clamps. An obvious design would seem to be simply having a wire around the hose, one end attached to a nut, and the other end to the screw, and when tightened, pulling the ends of the wire towards each other. However, this will leave a gap where no pressure is applied (underneath the screw), and cause a leak. To combat this, the more complicated and weaker design of having the ends overlap and then be pushed apart from each other is used, as this ensures pressure around the entire circumference of the hose.

[captdave]

Great tips, thanks.

 

CaptDave

[Airborne4162]

It is not just about the clamp!

 

How coolant hose leaks occur:

Why does a coolant hose connection leak after you've tightened a conventional clamp? After all, the clamp itself doesn't loosen.

What happens is this:

Both the hose neck and the hose expand when the coolant warms up. The clamp, however, is relatively unchanged, so it squeezes the rubber underneath even more, and this causes the rubber to become permanently compressed, which is called a set. When the engine cools, the neck contracts more than the hose. Many hose materials become virtually glued to the neck, so a seal is maintained. Others do not. In fact, silicone is almost immune to sealing. That makes the silicone hose easy to replace, but it is the most prone to cold coolant leakage. Always install the clamp next to, but not overlapping, the raised bead on the fitting to keep from trapping a bubble of coolant in the void space inboard of the bead.

 

One of the fundamental goals of most hose clamps is to ensure a tight seal between the hose and the barb, preventing the working fluid from escaping. To this goal, they are designed to provide even pressure on all sides, with no gaps. An example of this would be wire clamps. An obvious design would seem to be simply having a wire around the hose, one end attached to a nut, and the other end to the screw, and when tightened, pulling the ends of the wire towards each other. However, this will leave a gap where no pressure is applied (underneath the screw), and cause a leak. To combat this, the more complicated and weaker design of having the ends overlap and then be pushed apart from each other is used, as this ensures pressure around the entire circumference of the hose.

Sounds like you have alot of experience in this arena. You brought back some old school memories that still holds true to this day (and I'm talking 20+ years). It appears that the proposed coolant system hardware changes mimic that used on Aircraft (or Marine use) which also use T-bolt clamps, latch bolt clamps, wiggins compressor seals couplings, bleed air V and H band clamps and so on, all followed up by safety wiring the ends to ensure they stay in place if failure were to occur. It is best to stay with the initial design (or improved design) in order to maintain the integrity of the seal under pressure (16-22 psi maybe?) and temperature (185 - 250 F?) which is really not that high compared to other industrial engines. Do you know if Ford will be redesigning their clamps in the future?

 

Airborne

[FiaCobra]

Any new news on this clamp debacle ?