BadTony Posted September 30, 2007 Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 which is better ? Steeda or Ford Racing ( without actually looking, I am assuming that Ford Racing also has this type of products) or any other vendor for that matter. best price and lastly kit / individual part #'s ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoopy Posted September 30, 2007 Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 which is better ? Steeda or Ford Racing ( without actually looking, I am assuming that Ford Racing also has this type of products) or any other vendor for that matter. best price and lastly kit / individual part #'s ? Hey Awatters, where you been hiding? I have the BMR LCA's #TCA019 @ $135 /set and the BMR UCA #UTCA019 @ $177. Some have had trouble w/ bushings...only because of a bad urethane batch back around March 2007, but all is well now. Both of mine are black powdercoated and have zerk fittings easily accessible. Hope this helps in your search. BMR Fabrication...click here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VNMOUS1 Posted September 30, 2007 Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 which is better ? Steeda or Ford Racing ( without actually looking, I am assuming that Ford Racing also has this type of products) or any other vendor for that matter. best price and lastly kit / individual part #'s ? I have a new BMR uca with poly bushing and mounting bracket that was on the car for about an hour. $150 plus shipping if you want it. PM me. It's in perfect condition, I just went another direction to keep the wife happy. (Huge sigh of group understanding inserted here) bj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoopy Posted September 30, 2007 Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 I have Steeda LCA's and the UCA. I believe them to be quality parts, no more wheel hop. No bolts included re-used factory bolts and noticed a clunk others have had (may not be limited to just the Steeda's only) Steeda advised to replace with grade 8 because the factory bolts are torque to yield meaning they stretch and really have a one time use. So I did that and torqued to 140 and still have the clunk. Steeda advised that now I need to get rid of the drive shaft because it's design had play in it. The clunk is really cheezy sounding but the parts did tighten up the car also no wheel hop. But where does it stop? Im kind of pissed about this situation, $50,000 500 HP car with a severe wheel hop issue, Ford what did you think we were going to do with a 500 HP car? I believe that a drive shaft will not cure the clunk and the noise is normal slack in the ring and pinion that you don't hear with the factory bushings cause they are made of a lot of rubber that dampens the noise. Still for other reasons the drive shaft needs replaced because of they have failed on cars that have hooked good and or produced higher power. Still I know I am lucky to have this car as I know what it's like to want it and not be able to get one, wasn't that long ago. I'M JUST FRUSTRATED ABOUT THE DAMN CLUNK AND I FEEL A $700.00 DRIVE SHAFT IS NOT GOING TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE AND I PRETTY MUCH SPENT THE LOAD ON STAGE 2, CAI, PULLY, 373'S AND THE CONTROL ARMS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 I have Steeda LCA's and the UCA. I believe them to be quality parts, no more wheel hop. No bolts included re-used factory bolts and noticed a clunk others have had (may not be limited to just the Steeda's only) Steeda advised to replace with grade 8 because the factory bolts are torque to yield meaning they stretch and really have a one time use. So I did that and torqued to 140 and still have the clunk. Steeda advised that now I need to get rid of the drive shaft because it's design had play in it. The clunk is really cheezy sounding but the parts did tighten up the car also no wheel hop. But where does it stop? Im kind of pissed about this situation, $50,000 500 HP car with a severe wheel hop issue, Ford what did you think we were going to do with a 500 HP car? I believe that a drive shaft will not cure the clunk and the noise is normal slack in the ring and pinion that you don't hear with the factory bushings cause they are made of a lot of rubber that dampens the noise. Still for other reasons the drive shaft needs replaced because of they have failed on cars that have hooked good and or produced higher power. Still I know I am lucky to have this car as I know what it's like to want it and not be able to get one, wasn't that long ago. I'M JUST FRUSTRATED ABOUT THE DAMN CLUNK AND I FEEL A $700.00 DRIVE SHAFT IS NOT GOING TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE AND I PRETTY MUCH SPENT THE LOAD ON STAGE 2, CAI, PULLY, 373'S AND THE CONTROL ARMS. That clunk is just the reason why I am sticking with the factory arns until the aftermarket suppliers figure out a solution that works. Seems like almost everybody who changes out their LCAs has this issue. I think blaming the drive shaft is a lame excuse - the stock setup does not exhibit this clunk noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobeydick Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 That cluck is just the reason why I am sticking with the factory arns until the aftermarket suppliers figure out a solution that works. Seems like almost everybody who changes out their LCAs has this issue. I think blaming the drive shaft is a lame excuse - the stock setup does not exhibit this clunk noise. I have the Steeda UCA & LCA and I don't have that cluck. I just put them on so over the next few weeks I will get back with you. The MCP Light-Weight Drive Shaft cured almost all of the Drive-Train Shutter, 95% at least and it appears the Steeda LCA &UCA has taken care of the rest!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Hey Awatters, where you been hiding? I have the BMR LCA's #TCA019 @ $135 /set and the BMR UCA #UTCA019 @ $177. Some have had trouble w/ bushings...only because of a bad urethane batch back around March 2007, but all is well now. Both of mine are black powdercoated and have zerk fittings easily accessible. Hope this helps in your search. BMR Fabrication...click here Bill, I am wanting to do this mod, but am not interested in getting a "clunk" that others are describing. Do you get the Clunk with the BMR's. Anyone elses BMR's clunking ??????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckySnake Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Bill,I am wanting to do this mod, but am not interested in getting a "clunk" that others are describing. Do you get the Clunk with the BMR's. Anyone elses BMR's clunking ??????? Rob, the J & M Lower control arms are priced good and work, I'm using them, they don't clunk. I do not recommend replacing your UCA, unless you plan on racing a bunch. Lots of opinions on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Rob, the J & M Lower control arms are priced good and work, I'm using them, they don't clunk. I do not recommend replacing your UCA, unless you plan on racing a bunch. Lots of opinions on this. I am not racing. I like to get on it once in a while and need to get rid of the wheel hop issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Bill,I am wanting to do this mod, but am not interested in getting a "clunk" that others are describing. Do you get the Clunk with the BMR's. Anyone elses BMR's clunking ??????? Rob, Mine does. I believe it's the UCA, as I mounted my LCAs first and didn't notice it. YOu can get rid of at least some of the wheel hop by just changing the LCAs (some people said the LCAs got rid of ALL Of it, but not on my car). Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 I am not racing. I like to get on it once in a while and need to get rid of the wheel hop issue. Steeda street versions for me have been great. No issues with clunks, no bushing issues, mounted in the stock bracket and works with the car lowered but it gets a little tight with the street version on the UCA. I am keeping it all street first so I am minimizing the noise as much as I can (other than exhaust ) Take a good look at the Steeda street stuff - I love mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joemat Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Steeda street versions for me have been great. No issues with clunks, no bushing issues, mounted in the stock bracket and works with the car lowered but it gets a little tight with the street version on the UCA. I am keeping it all street first so I am minimizing the noise as much as I can (other than exhaust ) Take a good look at the Steeda street stuff - I love mine. Do you know who manufactures the EVO branded Arms?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Do you know who manufactures the EVO branded Arms?? I am not certain but i would put my money on S & W. They do a lot of work together and I'm pretty sure their torque box braces are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtbird91 Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Do you know who manufactures the EVO branded Arms?? I believe they are built by Steeda. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8snkbite Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 only replaced the LCA's with Steeda. Got on it a few times with zero hop. But you'll need an extra washer/spacer for the front mount, same type as what comes with the kit for the rear mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadTony Posted October 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 MCP Light-Weight Drive Shaft ? how many of you guys have this product installed? Ihave heard of another manufacturer (name escapes me at the moment) that makes lightweight driveshafts for the Shelby, but they have ceased to continue selling their product due to a moderate to bad vibration and til they get the problem resolved. web site for MCP or who makes this product? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 MCP Light-Weight Drive Shaft ? how many of you guys have this product installed? Ihave heard of another manufacturer (name escapes me at the moment) that makes lightweight driveshafts for the Shelby, but they have ceased to continue selling their product due to a moderate to bad vibration and til they get the problem resolved. web site for MCP or who makes this product? Mid Coast Performance http://www.midcoastperformance.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 For what it's worth I put the Steeda LCA's on and the clunk was there and 2 weeks later I put the Steeda UCA on and replaced the factory torque to yield with heavier grade 8. The clunk is still there. But no wheel hop. I will probably do a drive shaft as Steeda recommended in a couple of months once we know which one is safe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2008 Shelby Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 For what it's worth I put the Steeda LCA's on and the clunk was there and 2 weeks later I put the Steeda UCA on and replaced the factory torque to yield with heavier grade 8. The clunk is still there. But no wheel hop. I will probably do a drive shaft as Steeda recommended in a couple of months once we know which one is safe! Haven't heard any problems with EVO's 3 1/2" aluminum DS (Dynotech). However, one member here has had a catastrophic failure with his MCP driveshaft. Do a search here and you'll read all about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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