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I am going after my Rear End Rust


Grabber

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The Rust converter has to cure 24 hours before you can put a finish paint over it. Tomorrow night after work, I will clean, sand, and mask off the car. and spray 3 coats of Acrylic Enamel on the rusted areas.

 

This is the pait I will use.

 

RearEndRustRepair011.jpg

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You will notice how Ford did a crappy job of spraying the wheel wells black, so before I put my tires back on, I will be painting my wheel wells Black....the right way.

 

Look at the Job Ford did on the wheel wells: :finger:

 

RearEndRustRepair001.jpg

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Tonight I jacked up my car and pulled off my tires. Guess what I found. :rant: And yes....your car has it too! :o

 

RearEndRustRepair010.jpg

 

RearEndRustRepair009.jpg

 

RearEndRustRepair001.jpg

 

 

Looks like we are in need of professional applied undecoatings as a preventive

warranty measure we could get Ford to pay for it.............................

:hysterical2::hysterical::hysterical2::hysterical:

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Wow, it looks so much better already. I think I might just brush on the paint to avoid all the extra time in masking off everything. Thanks for taking the time to create the photo lesson. It might actually be a fun project.

 

Oh, was that one bottle of rust converter enough to do it all?

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Wow, it looks so much better already. I think I might just brush on the paint to avoid all the extra time in masking off everything. Thanks for taking the time to create the photo lesson. It might actually be a fun project.

 

Oh, was that one bottle of rust converter enough to do it all?

Your going to want to spray it to get into the cracks real good. The masking should not take to long. This paint is the type that you do a coat every 10 minutes. So 3 coats is what I will do. I will take some photos of the masking and the steps.

 

Be real careful jacking up the car. I First backed the car up onto my Rhino ramps to get it up in the air a bit. I then used a hydrolic jack to lift one side at a time up another inch so I could place a jack stand under the reccomended point on the unibody frame. Then slowly let it down, and do the other side. Block the front wheels and put on the E-brake.

 

I then placed my ramps and a board under the car rails just incase a jack stand would fail. You need a back up plan. You could throw a tire under there too, if you dont have ramps. BTW your not suppose to jack on the Pumpkin (Rear diff).

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Awesome writeup, though I was surprised you didn't paint everything Grabber Orange. :headspin:

 

Nice work!

If you think it looks nice now....just wait till I get 3 coats of finish paint on it. More photos tomorrow or Sat.

 

BTW....One bottle of the Rust converter is plenty. You want to check and double check the areas a few times to get good coverage.

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If you think it looks nice now....just wait till I get 3 coats of finish paint on it. More photos tomorrow or Sat.

 

BTW....One bottle of the Rust converter is plenty. You want to check and double check the areas a few times to get good coverage.

 

 

Are you going to ICE ICE ICE BABY everything after you are finished with the 3 coats of paint? :superhero:

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Well are those wheel wells suppose to be black or orange??? :headscratch:

They are suppose to be black. Ford did a feable attempt of sprayig a touch of wheel well paint in this area. The black hides this area. You don't want it your body color.

 

You can see where they tried! :hysterical2:

RearEndRustRepair001.jpg

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From the way it appears in the pic it looks as if they tried to spray the orange over the black. :hysterical:

It's an easy fix when you have the tires off and the entire car covered with a lite plastic cover.

 

I think I will rotate the tires from one side to the other also. The manual recommends it.

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Are you going to ICE ICE ICE BABY everything after you are finished with the 3 coats of paint? :superhero:

:hysterical2:

 

I was thinking the same thing!!

 

Maybe clay bar the underside first, then a few coats of ICE - SHAZAM! the dirt and road debris will just slip right off!

 

Tana might think he's a bit nuts, but those who know Rob will just shake their heads and say, "I wonder why it took him so long to start?"

 

:hysterical2:

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Nice job! I new you could not leve it that way.SO..What took you so long.................... :hysterical: Don't feel werd, I waxed mine after the paint too.. :yahoo: Now there are 3 of us that finished were Ford was SLACKING..... :hysterical2:

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Nice job! I new you could not leve it that way.SO..What took you so long.................... :hysterical: Don't feel werd, I waxed mine after the paint too.. :yahoo: Now there are 3 of us that finished were Ford was SLACKING..... :hysterical2:

I am not finished yet....just 1/2 way there.

 

You inspired me when you did this a while back. :drool: Then SCGT500 did his a couple months ago. I was waiting for the rainy weather to get here so my car would not be in the "down timee" mode. The rain is here today !

 

Did you use any Rust Converter on yours when you did it ?

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Rob, one suggestion....use a box fan behind the car near where you are painting, point it out of the garage, and turn it on low or medium while you spray. This will pull any "floating" paint away from the car. If you put it on high, I'd fear that you'd circulate it around too much and potentially cause more problems.

 

P.S. I've already bought the "stuff" to do mine...just waiting on the right time. I'm undecided on whether to disassemble or do what you have.

 

Dave

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