| TEAM SHELBY FORUM |
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'coupe'.
The search index is currently processing. Current results may not be complete.
Found 4 results
-
Hey all. I have taken on a 1968 Mustang and I am attempting to replicate (performance wise and visually) the Shelby TA Coupe (notchback racer). Here are some pics, any and all suggestions are welcomed. Any negative stuff, well, save that for the Chevrolet guys. Side view, the primer spots are covering bare metal. All bondo here is being removed, the metal being properly fixed. Decided to go with some 2008 Mustang GT wheels. Partially because they are relatively inexpensive, and the width on these was what I was looking for. Baer cross drilled and slotted rotors. TMI Mustang's molded headliner to gain some headroom and retro-sound speakers hidden behind the back bench. I am sewing the seats myself soon because I have access to proper machinery to do so at this automotive restoration school. Went with some nice Shelby American Inc. door sill/scuff plates (looked better than my original ones) In the rear, I dropped the car 2 inches. You can see the bondo on the fenders. That will be removed and the 1/4's will be replaced. Had a crappy Grant steering wheel in it, so I upgraded that to a wooden wheel (I like that woodgrain look) as well as a TMI center console, Retrosound radio, and a tachometer located in the OEM clock location. Front end after completing the 1in. drop post-Shelby drop. YES I did do the Shelby drop PROPERLY. Side indicators will be removed in the distant future, I like the clean look of the 67's. I ended up "Frenching" the taillights. Soon I will add the Shelby ducktail trunk lid with the ducktail corner caps. Tail lights will be upgraded to sequential LED's Every bit of ignition in this vehicle is MSD. Went with a champion 4 core aluminum rad with trans cooler. I am installing dual electric fans over christmas and doing away with the OEM fan. The engine is a 1971 Ford 302 out of a Torino (thanks previous owner) with 9.0:1 compression. This Christmas I am adding ceramic coated long tubes and maybe an Edelbrock 360hp kit from CJ Pony parts, but I am not totally sure yet. And yes, I am re-wiring the engine bay this winter as well. The previous owner still had the stock I6 springs/shocks in the Mustang... so I upgraded to 1969 BOSS302 coils and Scot Drake shocks. those are SOME photos. Ill take some new ones around Christmas as I am in college up in Kansas and haven't brought up the 'stang yet. And yes, after its up here, the rear 1/4's are getting replaced, you can noticed the bondo job courtesy of the previous owner.
-
Hello, I have a really nice '10 Coupe, but I'm thinking of selling it for a same year convertible. IMHO I feel the 2010 models were the last 'real' muscle cars, because they came with an iron block, and the best stock clutch. Plus, I don't like unproven technology in the whole 'plasma coating transfer' they give the cylinder bores, in the 11's and up. I went for a ride in the Vert I would purchase, and loved the sound, and whole driving experience top down! Enough so, that I am seriously considering a vert. Even at 100+ speeds, top up, it's quieter inside than my '11 Nissan! I don't track my cars, so advice against a Vert for this reason is not important to me. What is important is safety! I did some research, and the Verts get a 5 star rating in rollovers. I was all thrilled about this until I looked for more data. The seller claims that Ford built the convertible's roof to protect in a rollover, to 100mph. He claims they did this by using stronger metal in the bar of the roof. In effect, a "roll bar". I couldn't' find any proof of this info online. The NHTSA 5 star rating, unless I'm mistaken, is for "roll over protection". Initially I thought that meant, "in a rollover it's as safe as the coupe". Perhaps Ford made the A pillars strong, etc. I have received conflicting information as to what that rating means. There was one forum site that stated the 5 star roll over rating means: "The car has strong resistance to rolling over (due to a low center of gravity), but if, or once it does roll over, you are screwed." How accurate is that statement? Thanks!
-
Hi all, I just want to introduce myself to the forum. My name is Manfred, I'm German, 52 years old, mechanical engineer and I do own two GT500. The first one is a 2008 model, coupé in Alloy Grey. This car is since July 2008 my daily driver from April till October. The second one is a 2011 SS coupé in Kona Blue that I use for special events or longer trips/holydays with my wife in Europe. Looking forward to become part of your community. Manfred
-
I recently purchased my 2007 gt500 coupe, bone stock. Would u be willing to give me your suggestions on key upgrades? Here are some details to inform u: Missouri Will only drive on good weather days 15,000 miles on it Original tires, recently bought nitto NT555R 305/18 for rear and NT555 275/18 for front but have not put them on yet, hope they fit... Main complaint currently is wheel hop... (Hoping tires help, current tires are hard plastic, if not, thinking handling package next) Want to run street mainly but a couple strip drags will happen and I don't want to be embarrassed by anything other than my skill level if possible. Also weekend cruise nights with wife and kids. I want to push top speed and handle on hwy curves but not interested in track curves Dream is to run it at salt flats one day so really want to push top speed As for power, I want to boost it up, I feel that if I didn't have a supercharger already then I would buy the biggest and baddest, but since I already have one I am leaning toward getting most output for buck, unless u think a 6000.00 charger kit adding 200 or 250 hp is better than 1000.00 to 2000.00 in add-ons adding 100 or 150 hp??? I'm not knowledgable this is my preliminary perception thus far.. Appreciate your reading this, hope to hear back.
